Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday everyone

I have an r33 gtst skyline that i cant figure out what the hell is going on with. So here we go.

A while back now i took the car out and noticed that when i turn left it makes this incredible scraping noise. Its not there when i am going straight or if i am turning right just when i turn left, soft if i turn slowly and loud as buggery if i turn hard.

We initially thought it was a bearing problem so went out and changed them. $1200 later guess what it wasnt them, because on the exact test drive of the car after i changed the bearings the same noise was there (how did you think i felt).

What seemed to work however was, when i tightened the big centre axle bolt, found in the middle of the rear discs the sound seemed to have stopped, or so i thought. when i turned a little harder wack the sound came back. Now ive spoken to a few people and everyone is telling me something different. these are some of the options

-Hicas problem

-i have tein adjustable coilovers all over so many are saying it is that.

-driveshaft assembly.

I dont have a clue and as you all could imagine after spending 1200 bucks on genuine bearings i dont really want to make another mistake. so if anyone has ever had this problem and has a solution please let me know.

thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348338-scraping-noise-when-i-turn-right/
Share on other sites

Ouch.. 1200$ Sorry to hear of your loss..

you sure its not just tyre scrub..what size wheels you running

Check for scrub marks on the back plastic inner guard lining and if it is, dont worry about it..All the cool cars do it :D

I don't know who has a better reputation in your area, but if you invest $30 or whatever for a 50pt suspension check thru Jax/Pedders, they'll narrow it down for you (via a drive + physical check on a hoist).

Then you can decide what needs to be done now, and what is superfluous.

Drive shaft? Guesstimate says that whilst driving around a corner on full lock, you get this clicking > grating noise.

Coilovers? Guesstimate says to change back to standard OEM suspension and see immediately if the noise goes away.

The rim could be rubbing on the caster arm, take off the wheel and check behind the rim.. and while you are there check for evident rubbing on the suspension .. you could probably ignore this if you are running stock GTS-T rims.

its not the head sheild on the rotor or a rock in it?? mine made a scraping noise once and it was a tiny rock wedged in the heat sheild was only there when i turned strangly enough?

It does sound something like that.

yep get it to pedders and up on the hoist. Put the steering on full lock and see what rubs or is close (ie might rub if the car's wieght is on it). Also remove wheels, calipers and discs and see if there are any rocks etc caught as they will cause this noise (I guess you had to do this to replace the wheel bearings though)

fortunately for everyone except you....nissan put excellent quality bearings in the skyline hubs and they almost never fail. even stock bearings on race cars.

my guess is the coilovers pillowball mount that doesnt allow the spring to rotate when turning and producing a clunk clunk sound on slow turns.

put stock suspension back on the front...if the sound goes away...then it's the coilovers that wasnt installed properly.

  • 3 years later...

this is happening to me now....coming from the passenger rear.....immediately after installing coilovers all round

only happens when i turn right, so the force is going to the passenger rear. also when going in a straight line, only happens under load from 80km and up..

cant figure it out, there's nothing visually obvious when taking the wheel off.

Happened to me a couple of months ago, only when turning to the right under some load. Couldn't figure out if it was coming from left front or left rear. Was going to book it into a suspension joint but something came up that needed car to do a quick trip. About 100kms short of destination this happened. See attached pic(s).

Got a phone call from my son who was doing the trip to say (briefly) that he knew what the noise was & could I arrange a tow truck 'cos his cell phone was going flat.

Seems my after market upper outer suspension bush bolt/nut combo had slowly worked loose & finally let go under rather hairy circumstances. Fortunately son was not injured, managed to pull the beast up & get off the road before demolition by other road users could occur.

The fix for me has been to fit Cusco upper front camber arms, to replace the damaged item.

Moral : Hearing unexpected noises when rolling/cornering/whatever from outside of vehicle? Get on a hoist asap & go over yer nuts & bolts. Meticulously. :3some:

Question I have is; does anyone know where to buy M10 fine thread grade C, 9~10 cone/crown/auto/automotive/Grover/partial torque/uni-torque/elliptical offset/stove type locking nuts in small quantities. I need two, for a sway-bar drop link which needed replacing. (also damaged during incident). I can buy some from China in 300kg lots but really don't need that many lol.

I will post this question again when I figure out the appropriate forum.

Cheers, GW

post-34341-0-51025700-1411540029_thumb.jpg

post-34341-0-77408600-1411540124_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The incentives are mostly the same, yes. Ethanol is cheap compared to the cost of doing 98-100 RON with crude oil alone. 87 to 93-94 AKI all with E10. In 2020 Canada mandated E10 as a part of their "renewable fuel standard" and is supposedly going to go to E15 in 2030. In California where there are only 8 refineries with two threatening to shut down next year it's been over 20 years now of E10 and 91 AKI maximum because there's just not enough refinery capacity or crude oil supply relative to the demand for premium unleaded fuel. And CARB's low carbon fuel standard means functionally none of the diesel available at the pump is made from crude oil anymore. It's almost all entirely 20% biodiesel blended with 80% renewable diesel (hydrotreated vegetable oil) now. The number of gasoline vehicles that support E15 or higher ethanol concentrations is surprisingly low, I can't imagine it being wise to play tricks like this without flex fuel sensors in most of the fleet.
    • It's almost certainly the same as the one next to it. Have a fish around amongst these hits https://www.google.com/search?q=surface+mount+transistor+m33&sca_esv=9cb49794e0b2005d&source=hp&ei=2vJ5aNjTB7Kw0PEPldnS8QM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaHoA6qkfmF6XcygtrZ4Vu9f92NXF_RFd&ved=0ahUKEwjYqIPP7MWOAxUyGDQIHZWsND4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=surface+mount+transistor+m33&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhxzdXJmYWNlIG1vdW50IHRyYW5zaXN0b3IgbTMzMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUjKCFAAWABwAHgAkAEAmAHfAaAB3wGqAQMyLTG4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgGgAuYBmAMAkgcDMi0xoAfMBLIHAzItMbgH5gHCBwMyLTHIBwU&sclient=gws-wiz
    • South Australia, which is hardly as far behind as the rest pf Oz makes out, and who is also not a paragon of progressiveness (read that as over-legislation) in the area of vehicle standards, has this to say on the subject: Adjustable coil-over suspension Aftermarket adjustable coil-over suspension components are suspension units that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle's suspension height to be varied. If fitting aftermarket or coil-over suspension components you must submit an Application to modify a light motor vehicle form and a report from a light vehicle engineering signatory (LVES).
    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
×
×
  • Create New...