Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey there sau,

On christmas eve recently installed a RB20 turbo onto my 96' Series II R33 (rb25det). I noticed there was a extra line coming off the compressor side of the turbo connected to the aculator hose which my old turbo did not have. I'm just wondering what to do with this line coming off the turbo (breather like hose). The turbocharger is installed and iam waiting on a elbow that connects to my FMIC piping so i can complete my installation. I disconnected the line from the aculator to the breather like nipple on the compressor side of the turbo and connected the aculator hose to the T piece running from my oem boost solenoid. Will upload some pictures if needed

Best regards chris :thanks:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348415-rb20-turbo-install-on-rb25/
Share on other sites

here are all the 3 pictures i uploaded as you can see the nipple coming off the turbo and iam unsure what to do with it http://img255.imageshack.us/i/aculatortpiece.jpg/

http://img33.imageshack.us/i/compressorsidenipple.jpg/

http://img816.imageshack.us/i/compressorturbonipple.jpg/

thanks again chris

why would you convert to an rb20 turbo?

The exhaust side of the compressor wheel disintegrated and im selling the car soon, picked the new turbo up really cheap anyways

cheers chris

would have to be a westie :P

>_< stupid uploader wouldnt work for some reason

EDIT: i thought u said would have to be a website... didnt read properly, and yeah im a westie :closedeyes:

Edited by hks33

that nipple is for the wastegate actuator.

hey man thanks for your help. Strange because i didnt remember my 25 turbo being like that when i pulled it off, so what will connect to to the other side of the T piece when i pull the wastegate actuator line off?

Thanks again dude

well you just lost any value the car had left.

you can get 25 turbos for what, 150 odd.

putting a 20 turbo onto a 25, you've just lost over a grand on resale IMO as whoever buys it is getting a car that's worse than factory.

well you just lost any value the car had left.

you can get 25 turbos for what, 150 odd.

putting a 20 turbo onto a 25, you've just lost over a grand on resale IMO as whoever buys it is getting a car that's worse than factory.

You're assuming everyone knows what they are looking at.

I predict something like this.

Car advertised.

Knowledgeable person checks it out.

Knowledgeable person LOLS and then leaves.

Nub checks it out.

Nub takes it for test drive and drops a load in his jocks case he has previously only driven a Camry.

Nub happily hands over the readies not having a clue that it's got a smaller turbo.

Nub crashes the car 4 weeks later so is never the wiser.

Nub advertises the parted out wreck on SAU.

Nub sells "RB25" turbo only to have the buyer spaz out when they find out it's an RB20 turbo.

The circle of life is complete.

  • Like 1

You're assuming everyone knows what they are looking at.

I predict something like this.

Car advertised.

Knowledgeable person checks it out.

Knowledgeable person LOLS and then leaves.

Nub checks it out.

Nub takes it for test drive and drops a load in his jocks case he has previously only driven a Camry.

Nub happily hands over the readies not having a clue that it's got a smaller turbo.

Nub crashes the car 4 weeks later so is never the wiser.

Nub claims insurance

Nub is told the car is modified and insurance is no longer valid.

Nub is innocently f**ked over.

The circle of life is complete.

Fixed.

hey man thanks for your help. Strange because i didnt remember my 25 turbo being like that when i pulled it off, so what will connect to to the other side of the T piece when i pull the wastegate actuator line off?

Thanks again dude

Thats because on the rb25 instead of having the nipple on the turbo its on your intercooler piping so just block one of the nipples off and use either the one on your piping or the turbo to connect to the actuator.

Thats because on the rb25 instead of having the nipple on the turbo its on your intercooler piping so just block one of the nipples off and use either the one on your piping or the turbo to connect to the actuator.

hey there man,

so after i have connected the actuator to the nipple coming off the turbo your saying block one side of the T piece off that isnt going to be used, hence the bottom one that i currently have connected to the actuator?

leave the standard actuator setup and run that to the actuator like you did originally and block the hose on the comp housing

Hey there jonno,

thanks heaps man appreciate your help

Fixed.

Insurers can only void the claim if it contributed to the accident. Eg you put a 1000hp supercharged v8 in your skyline and you tbone someone at a traffic light because you are a tard, unless the engine caused the accident (it didnt) they can't void your claim.

Edited by Rolls

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
×
×
  • Create New...