Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just got my car dynoed after making adjustments that I thought were holding it back.

Mods, injectors, fuel pump, 256/264cams, trust plenum, hybrid cooler, power fc with boost control, 40mm ext gate, custom manifold, K&N pod with CAI and enclosed box and a HKS 1.6mm metal head gasket to drop CR to 8.6:1, adj HKS exh cam gear

plus driveline and sus mods but they dont really pertain here

the car made 321rwkw at 22psi, 1.2bar at 4000rpm. whilst the boost comes on a bit savage, it is easy to control with the throttle, so loss of traction is an option.

it has around 5psi at 3000rpm, and around 10 at 3500, then turbo starts pulling really hard.

after retarding by 4 deg on exhaust, I picked up around 15kw in the mid range with no loss in power anywhere else.

due to some fantastic tuning by Shaun of Boost Worx here in adeliade, off boost driveability is pretty awesome. The car just wants to go:)

comparing to the dyno of my car with stock turbo and 200rwkw, at 80kph I now have around 15kw less, at 100kph, they are even, then it just gets better for the new turbo

Big thanks too, to James of D1 Garage, for all his advice and help getting parts.

final3037.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34855-hks-3037-tuning-results/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 125
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

thanks guys

Robo's yep standard internals

DVS33T, I think there is a bit more to be had from the 3040, best to keep an eye on B-man's results, and you will be able to tell

B-man, yeah they are killer turbos. I am not sure if the way it comes on boost is a difference between the turbos, quite possibly, but also it may make a difference that I have stock internals, AF ratios are appropriately rich around there (mid 11s) and the timing is somewhat conservative - just to be on the safe side.

Clint32, not sure, I really didnt want to go any further, cos I am chicken, and dont want to rebuild. Didnt a top secret GTR make around 700kw with two of these? But then again, they would have had porting, matchported bits, bigger cams, 2.8L bottom end etc. Boost comes in alot earlier, and top end seems to be breathing better with the upgrades (compare the dyno on whatsisnames rebuild thread in the SA section). Driveability is greatly inproved - chalk and cheese. I am not sure how it will go at 1.8, but it did spike to 1.89 this arvo, and lit up the tyres at 120ks (using 2 way diff), in a controlled environment of course:)

Benm, it really isnt too bad on tyres, as long as you keep away from WOT, but you can regulate the boost very easily with the right foot

RNS11Z, it goes funny cos the biggest wastegate spring I could get my hands on is rated at 0.72bar, and I am running 1.6bar - the poor old solenoid has a bit of trouble keeping the boost nice and smooth up there as far as I can work out. It dips as the wastegate opens, then goes up and down as the boost fluctuates a little, around 1-2 lbs. I could probably spend more money getting another spring made, and redynoing, but I am quite happy the way it is. Besides, this gives me the option of turning the boost down for a lazy 225oddkw at 12lbs, for when the wife is driving:)

Hi Steve, great result, well over 500 bhp. A couple of questions..

What brand of wastegate?

Why did you stop the runs at 6,600 rpm?

Since the dyno was not in Shootout mode, what sort of day was it temp and humidity wise?

How is the PFC boost control kit handling the 1.5 bar?

What diameter exhaust?

What fuel?

What's next on your list?

If you could wind the clock back, would you do anything different?

I would certainly keep looking for a stronger wastegate spring, and I don't think it would need tuning if you just use it to smooth out the boost. If you use it to increase the total boost, that's a different story.

Top result regardless, just enjoy driving it. I hate seeing a good car sit in the garage.

Jeebus cripes that's impressive! I wouldn't give a rat's that it's 11:1 AFR either, with that kind of power it's better to be safe. You're at the level where you don't need to wring every last kw out of the engine, except maybe in the low-end. You just need to keep it smooth and safe enough for the stock internals to handle up top.

thanks for the kind words everybody.

Simonster, dont worry, its well worth the wait, my turbo sat in a cupboard since feb last year, just getting where I want now

geraldjohn, sorry, I dont have a digi camera at the moment

Inasnt, I am pretty sure the head gasket is helping, a nice tune doesnt hurt either

sydneykid, its using a HKS 40mm standard wastegate with a 10psi spring. I would have gone a 1bar spring, but a guy picked one up in japan, and it was the heaviest available at the time. The spring that came out was 7lb. Might have to see if I can get a spring made to fit unfortuneately.

The runs didnt stop until 7000rpm. I think the diff may be slightly different to stock ratio, as when it went in (nismo 2way) there was a noticeable increase in torque off boost, purely seat of the pants though - can't think of any other way to explain the difference. I will have to check it out.

I am not sure of the humidity, temp was around 30deg at 1130am (in the dyno booth), the runs above were done around 1pm.

the boost controller seems to be fine - no noticable problems on the dyno. Spiked to 1.89bar in 3rd on the road, so I dropped the duty cycle (alot) and seems fine now. I think the top end of the curve will smooth out once it finishes learning how to hold the boost - I could be wrong, but it doenst have a noticeable effect.

Exhaust is 3" stainless ceramic coated and heat wrapped dump, wastegate integrates just before the bend where the dump angles toward the back of the car, so almost at the cat. From there it is a 90mm HKS super dragger.

fuel was just straight pump BP98

Not much more on the list engine wise, but I am still going to get rear camber arms, hicas lock kit, and R rated rubber, and I will try and get a 1bar spring.

Things I would have done differently, thats a bit hard. I think I would have used a different manifold, 3/2/1 design rather than tuned lenght - but that is one I will never know 100% for sure whether or not it will make much difference, as I am not about to go to all the added expense of buying the manifold and getting all the pipework remade, as I am very happy with the result I have now.

Other than that, maybe a light port/polish and match the manifold and plenum, thats about it really.

dont worry about the car not being driven, its my daily driver.

JimX, its actually quite good bottom end. Not much worse than stock turbo when I was putting down 200rwkw. this turbo still makes a few lbs boost at low (under 3000rpm) engine speeds with light throttle, the car feels like it wants to go all the time - not doughy at all bottom end.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...