Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

First thing I learnt in intro to law... you enter into a sale contract and thats it. He would have been pissed if you backed out. If he accepted payment thats accepting the sale contract. He can't just back out like that, but you're hardly going to take him to court over $150 worth of calipers...

I didn't win those other calipers either, so I'm keen on your mates calipers Big Fella!

How much are the seal kits? I saw a set of all four on eBay for about $200, which seemed insane to me just for the seals.

Hoping I might be able to pick them up from Big Fella, or a skyline owner on here upgradng (and maybe even get some second hand discs).

Get your money back for the others?

yeh there about $100 for fronts

rear calipers dont fit on our car so try asking if you can split em up..

yeh got money back.. should be picking the other ones up tomorrow or monday..

craig will.

give craig anything unbreakable and guess what? he'll break it

lol...yup!!!

you guy's looked around for R33GTR stuff yet?...might find them cheaper than Z33/V35 stuff!....front's only!

Just quietly Cam....big f#$king difference between a 20year old cross drilled rotor and a late model Porshe rotors and ceramic Ferrari stuff mate! Every time I have had crossdrilled rotor's on a car(any car) they have eventually cracked!

Edited by Jetwreck

you guy's looked around for R33GTR stuff yet?...might find them cheaper than Z33/V35 stuff!....front's only!

You talking calipers? I've found R32 GTR calipers are cheaper than R33 GTSt. I didn't know R33 GTR fit?

The cost of a rebuilt set of R32 GTR calipers, decent slotted discs and decent pads had me looking at v35/350z stuff, but thats just dearer again!

You talking calipers? I've found R32 GTR calipers are cheaper than R33 GTSt. I didn't know R33 GTR fit?

The cost of a rebuilt set of R32 GTR calipers, decent slotted discs and decent pads had me looking at v35/350z stuff, but thats just dearer again!

Yeh callipers and rotors from a R33GTR.......they are basically the same calliper as the Z33/V35 brembo just black.....rotor is 324mm instead of 284 like the r32......will bolt up the same way as the R32's as well.....I know this as I started with the R32gtr calliper and rotors and just recently went to the R33GTR stuff.

Well u coulda told me that before I picked up my gtr32 calipers today.

Meh I don't think it matters, the way scotts was stopping was f**kin insane! I don't think I'll need more than that.. I'm not looking at track work anyway..

The ones I picked up look good.. The seals look new still!

Yeh callipers and rotors from a R33GTR.......they are basically the same calliper as the Z33/V35 brembo just black.....rotor is 324mm instead of 284 like the r32......will bolt up the same way as the R32's as well.....I know this as I started with the R32gtr calliper and rotors and just recently went to the R33GTR stuff.

So I'll need a caliper adaptor then?

The washer? Yeah I read Craigs instructions in M35Stagea.info, but he said R33 rotors were 324mm, and R32 rotors were 284, so I'd need that caliper bracket I think? This is the first I'd heard of R33 GTR calipers fitting?

Do they fit over standard wheels? I've still got standard 17" RS wheels.

Oh screw that I'm not going through that much trouble for a couple of mm. If that much trouble is needed, but he said they are the same as 350z brembos so maybe no adaptors.. Just the sleeve washer thing

Craigs Brain and possiblily other parts of him are on holiday ATM.

R32 GTR dicss are 296mmx32mm with Sumitomo calipers (same diameter as stock, the difference is in the width) Not 284mm

The R33 GTR are 324mmx30mm- With the Brembo calipers.

What you need to make them fit- the difference is in the bolts - R32 /33 being 12mm, and R34/M35/Z33 being 14mm (I think :blush:)

A little Sleeve that goes on the bolt to fill that gap is whats needed.

Scott might just jump in here (he turned mine up):thumbsup:

Edited by PN-Mad

R32 GTR, non brembo is 296mm x 32mm. R32 GTSt is 280mm x 28mm. The reducing sleeve for the mounting bolts is all you'll need.

Edit; Alex beat me to it.

Edited by Daleo

Craigs Brain and possiblily other parts of him are on holiday ATM.

R32 GTR dicss are 296mmx32mm with Sumitomo calipers (same diameter as stock, the difference is in the width) Not 284mm

The R33 GTR are 324mmx30mm- With the Brembo calipers.

What you need to make them fit- the difference is in the bolts - R32 /33 being 12mm, and R34/M35/Z33 being 14mm (I think :blush:)

A little Sleeve that goes on the bolt to fill that gap is whats needed.

Scott might just in here (he turned mine up):thumbsup:

But wouldn't I need an adaptor to move the caliper to accept the bigger R33 GTR disc?

Does that make R34s bolt on too?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...