Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Most likely you've ended up with a reasonably bad boost leak....do you have a boost gauge, and if so what does it show.

Go back around the whole job and check every hose is seated square, and every hose clamp is tight. The easy way to check a hose clamp is to push hard on the screw part - if it turns on the pipe it is too loose. But even if they are tight, the hoses have to be properly seated on the pipes, ie square on and good overlap

Howdy,

thanks for all your input!

I Double checked the hoses and een had a mate of mine come by after I had installed it yesterday to ensure everything had been connected properly. No problem.

I spent all day wiring up a boost guage (Apexi mechanical) and finally got it to work.

on idle: -0.5 to -0.6

driving: -0.7

OK, so im assuming it should be idling on 0?

Howdy,

thanks for all your input!

I Double checked the hoses and een had a mate of mine come by after I had installed it yesterday to ensure everything had been connected properly. No problem.

I spent all day wiring up a boost guage (Apexi mechanical) and finally got it to work.

on idle: -0.5 to -0.6

driving: -0.7

OK, so im assuming it should be idling on 0?

No, that sounds reasonably normal. Engines are almost always on vacuum (ie less than 0) because they suck air in. the more you open the throttle the more air they suck so the more vacuum you'll see. But with a turbo car of course, as it comes on boost it moves from vacuum (negative) to boooost (positive), but only when the engine is under load.

Unfortunately that means that you need someone to watch the boost guage while you floor it for a while. Up a hill is best because boost builsd more quickly and the car accelerates more slowly.

No, that sounds reasonably normal. Engines are almost always on vacuum (ie less than 0) because they suck air in. the more you open the throttle the more air they suck so the more vacuum you'll see. But with a turbo car of course, as it comes on boost it moves from vacuum (negative) to boooost (positive), but only when the engine is under load.

Unfortunately that means that you need someone to watch the boost guage while you floor it for a while. Up a hill is best because boost builsd more quickly and the car accelerates more slowly.

OK so took it for a drive today and found a steady incline.

During acceleration, the gauge hovered around 0.5 and whilst in 2nd gear at around 3000rpm onwards I could feel the car 'stuttering'.

Thoughts? I think this is getting a bit too over my head for me.

Finished stripping the heads off today and cleaned up the block ready for the new oem head gaskets and L19 studs. It all looks pretty clean in there now, hopefully an oil flush will clean out any residual coolant I haven't managed to get to.

Luckily it looks like just a split head gasket...

post-63525-0-28203100-1338735704_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-18105200-1338735719_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-47078100-1338735734_thumb.jpg

Today, i pulled the glovebox apart to investigate what sorts of plug connectors the DVD rom's got, and found the glovebox light was blown. Replaced the bulb, all good now. Also cleaned the pollen filter. Still not able to get the reversing camera wired up as the camera wont work for some reason(ntsc). Also gave it a wash. :yes:

Finished stripping the heads off today and cleaned up the block ready for the new oem head gaskets and L19 studs. It all looks pretty clean in there now, hopefully an oil flush will clean out any residual coolant I haven't managed to get to.

Luckily it looks like just a split head gasket...

Gotta love how E85 keeps the pistons and combustion chambers clean.

Is that the knock sensor in the valley?

Gotta love how E85 keeps the pistons and combustion chambers clean.

Is that the knock sensor in the valley?

yeh i asked him if it was yesterday and yeh apparently it is the knock sensor

yeh i asked him if it was yesterday and yeh apparently it is the knock sensor

What's this Aaron? A non random post? That's not like you...

Yeh Paul, the pistons were only a little coated in carbon, a light spray with gasket stripper had them polished like new.

And yes, that is the knock sensor, not that the Fcon cares about it much.

Finished stripping the heads off today and cleaned up the block ready for the new oem head gaskets and L19 studs. It all looks pretty clean in there now, hopefully an oil flush will clean out any residual coolant I haven't managed to get to.

Luckily it looks like just a split head gasket...

In Pic 1 is that a cast mark on the engine mount or a crack ?

OK so took it for a drive today and found a steady incline.

During acceleration, the gauge hovered around 0.5 and whilst in 2nd gear at around 3000rpm onwards I could feel the car 'stuttering'.

Thoughts? I think this is getting a bit too over my head for me.

could the issues that I have been experiencing be a coilpack issue? I remember experiencing something similar with another car of mine years ago..

In Pic 1 is that a cast mark on the engine mount or a crack ?

Just a casting mark.

could the issues that I have been experiencing be a coilpack issue? I remember experiencing something similar with another car of mine years ago..

It sounds like it, Stuttering is usually either plugs that are fouled or coil packs breaking down. It could also be low voltage/bad connection in the coil loom. Without more information about the car's mods and power level its hard to guess the cause.

Studs turned up today, all went in well bar one, it looks like the thread is a little chewed. :verymad: I will have to buy a long M11 x 1.25 tap tomorrow.

I also match ported the upper and lower plenum halves and throttle, the head ports looked pretty good but the runners were all over the place.

post-63525-0-52140400-1338814373_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-08143100-1338814687_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-54349400-1338814723_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-57822500-1338814741_thumb.jpg

Nope. lol, I don't trust myself around the valves without removing them and I don't want to get a stray piece of alloy in the oil galleries. Do you think it matters? The area of the 6 ports is a crapload bigger than the turbo and wastegate. It should be fine mate. There is definitely a heap of material I could remove there though.

im gonna talk you into it lol..

i think you should.. why not its all apart.. just be a true hampton parker and shove a sock down there and vacuum it out before you take the sock out lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah that is not actually a lot. Just painting my GTR frontend and the little bits to make sideskirts/nismo flare pieces work correctly/fit on the sedan/mount up correctly came to about $7000. Is it a lot? Sure. None of this is economical. Economy would be shelling the car and buying a 2010 Corolla to commute in. The perspective of all of this is different.
    • I have the 2025 build re003s’ on my 06 XT Forester Turbo and I quite rate them for street wet and dry
    • I don't see any issues here. I've been saying all along this is a big job, the price reflects that.  When the car comes back perfect I'm sure it will feel like money well spent. 
    • Remember, take original quote. Double it. Then add a bit more. It's how any project goes.
    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
×
×
  • Create New...