Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My new track rims, lightweight Forged Rays (oem V35 rims I think, I haven't seen this style before) with Dunlop Direzza 036 soft compound semis. Should stick like glue. :)

post-63525-0-18565500-1349737383_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-35562900-1349737394_thumb.jpg

^^ Sexy...

Finally finished wiring the EVC in last night, just have to finish the plumbing tonight (only have the MAP line in at the moment).

For Leon especially, and others, here are some pics of the direct 12V distribution block I setup.

post-34363-0-64824600-1349739575_thumb.jpg

That's the distribution block mounted next to the TCM. One 4GA wire in, and four wires out. Once problem I've noticed is the stock wires for the Wideband and EVC are too small to mount in here, so I have soldered in some thicker cable (the two black wires going in). You can also see the brown wire connected to the ignition power source of the TCM, which is used to switch the relay.

post-34363-0-15783900-1349739694_thumb.jpg

70A relay wired up in the battery compartment. You can see here the solid red wire, which goes to the battery, the translucent red wire, which runs to the distribution block, the translucent brown wire, which is the ground for the switching, and the brown wire running in, which is connected to the opposite side pin to the translucent brown wire.

post-34363-0-71441400-1349739811_thumb.jpg

Inline 50A glass fuse connected directly to the battery, and running to the relay in the above pic. The other red wire with the inline blade fuse is the direct feed for the fuel pump.

post-34363-0-99446700-1349739916_thumb.jpg

The end of the ground wire for the switching on the relay. Not very exciting but thought I'd throw it in anyway.

I'll post up some pics of the EVC install once it's done, hopefully I'll get the pics done tonight.

Boost controller finally in and working...

but...

In a stupid story in the vein of Dale's recent experiences, I started the car ready to go after setting up the EVC with a starting boost of 12PSI.

I put my foot down and revved the car, and next thing you know there's a bang, a puff of smoke, and a tink tink tink that scared the crap out of me.

I'm sitting here thinking "oh no, what have I done, engine go bang!" and turn it off straight away.

I rush round the front to find that one of the belts has shredded in half.

More "Oh shit", followed by a sigh of relief as I realise the smoke was a bit of belt hitting the clutch fan, and the tink noise was the left over bits of belt hitting bits of metal.

Pack it up, come inside, thinking "I can't be the only person who's had this happen, need to search the forums".

Do search.

Find three helpful threads.

One being Matt's new thread with all the part number he's found in it, including the AC and drive belts: http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry6541105

One being Justin's thread about his AC belt, with a very familiar image in it: http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry6392240

Enter sigh of relief as I read Alex's posts confirming that not only is the belt cheap and easy to replace, but I can clip it off and keep driving the car!

I love these forums...

I was initially worried it had something to do with the boost controller. Now that I know it's the AC belt it makes a bit of sense, as the AC hasn't worked since January and I figured it needed a regas.

So now I'm ordering a new drive and AC belt thanks to Matt's part numbers, cutting the AC belt thanks to Alex's help, and driving the car to AM Performance, which will be where it rests while I'm in Coffs, so Andrew can finally do the intake.

Some pics of the boost controller install will follow tomorrow, but thanks for all the help guys. Just wish that bloody actuator wasn't so difficult to get to!

Nice pick up there on the wheels Scotty. Special edition 350z wheels I believe - right out the Rays factory.

I bet they are worth a lot more than I paid. ;)

They were an option; only available on the 350Z track edition (with Brembo's), and were around $3800-$4000.

I think I've only seen 2 or 3 sets EVER; so they're pretty damn rare.

Scotty stole them cause of a hot tip off, Dale. ;)

Trading post says 1800. Seen for similar amounts in the past. Just like a proper rays wheel, without the cost.

Ryan. Alex takes no liability in what you cut off! :P

That's the awesomeness of search!

Why did you need to get to the actuator Ryan? Just to replace the hose? I would have left it and just plumbed it in where the T piece goes.

If you'd have told me that 6 hours ago thats what I would have done in hindsight!

But yeah, it was for the hose, and it worked out ok in the end, just a pain at the time.

Installed a nice yellow addition to my car,

Oh wait, that was the popo.

A dead number plate light and an apparent oil leak.. I can't see an oil leak anywhere...

So in actual fact, there's nothing really dangerously wrong with your car, but because it's different (and maybe the cop was in a shitty mood?), they decided you needed more hassles...

A dead number plate light and an apparent oil leak.. I can't see an oil leak anywhere...

So in actual fact, there's nothing really dangerously wrong with your car, but because it's different (and maybe the cop was in a shitty mood?), they decided you needed more hassles...

Oh no; haven't you heard? Non functioning numberplate lights are a leading cause of serious & fatal accidents in Australia!

:rolleyes:

Edited by Daleo

Its just discrimination- nothing new. How often do you hear about Grandmas old ford lazer being pulled over and defected for worn out brakes, oil leaks, headlight out, flogged out shocks etc etc.

I've heard of a import driver pulled over and they couldn't find anything, so they defected his handbrake for too many clicks. :wacko:

A dead number plate light and an apparent oil leak.. I can't see an oil leak anywhere...

Every time I come up for Rego-check at one of my rear number plate lights are dead. Two weeks ago it was both.

I asked why they're so fragile and the mechanic said,

a) it's the way you put your tailgate down (since it doesn't seem to happen on my GTR)

b) the filaments are more delicate than they used to be (coming from such n such a place)

Every time I come up for Rego-check at one of my rear number plate lights are dead. Two weeks ago it was both.

I asked why they're so fragile and the mechanic said,

a) it's the way you put your tailgate down (since it doesn't seem to happen on my GTR)

b) the filaments are more delicate than they used to be (coming from such n such a place)

Terry, I replaced mine with SMD versions, nice white light; so much more resistant to that kind of damage.

They cost peanuts on eBay, and last forever.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...