Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

that's about the standard boost mate....is the boost controller turned on? generally it would be set between 12 and 14psi for a standard turbo :teehee:

oh really? I was told by a few people that standard they are meant to be set at about 7psi and 10psi is the 'safe' boost to run daily on stock turbo. Boost controller is turned on, but i haven't tried playing with it yet. Need to download and read the manual :/

Blowoff valve and wiring loom for ignition coils arrived today! Wuhoo! Off to mech on Friday to have it all fitted up, then as soon as my tuner has time, we'll give it the 5th "final tune", and everything will be awesome (probably wishful thinking given the epic issues, but you gotta stay positive, yeah?)...

Sounds like it should all be sorted :) it's good you got back on the horse, it can be really detering when these things happen.

I remember someone asking for a picture of my seat because we were bidding against each other months ago. So here it is.

image.jpg

Wow cool seat!

Update on our stag. We put a new fuel pump in (walbro) then started getting a hesitation on take off and light throttle. Checked voltage at the pump on idle and revs. 9 volts!! Haha didn't really want to run a new power cable etc so at first I was like il try earthing the fuel pump direct to the chassis and see what happens.

So did that and check voltage. 12.2 volts. Sweet! Went for a drive and the hesitation was gone!! Yay

Car went on the dyno again and made 180kws at all four wheels. Goes much harder now, wow haha

good to hear that it was a simple fix, but you need to be a little careful with just putting it straight to the chassis. Does the fuel pump still turn off after a few seconds when you turn the ignition on (but do not start the car?)

In a lot of these systems the ECU uses the earth to turn off the fuel pump when the ignition is on but the car does not start.

If your fuel pump does not turn off (may be hard to hear), you need to add a relay where pin 85 goes to the original ECU earth to the fuel pump (12v can come from any ignition switched source to pin 86). Then connect the old fuel pump earth to pin 30 and pin 87 then to the chassis earth.

What have I done to my Stagea lately??

Nipped in to town to do some shopping!

All this gear in the car and still could of beat any Commondore!!!

Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk 2

hay

What have I done to my Stagea lately?? Nipped in to town to do some shopping! All this gear in the car and still could of beat any Commondore!!! Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk 2

That's quite a bit of stuff is that shopping for a couple of months!

Gktech open ended wheel nuts on order, once they arrive I'll start playing with my spacers :-)

Managed to pick up two pairs of their 15-30mm spacers for $150

Should be able to fit my kakimotos over the front brakes now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...