3076R For 270Rwkw

[luvpsi]

if your areon a really tight budget i would go the hypergear atr43 g3 easy 270rwkw you can pick one of these up from stao for $1450 with actuator to suit and oil lines and bolts straight up for a stock look. i would get your injectors highflowed also on a tight budget and then a nistune and z32 afm and your laughing no changing dump pipes unless you really want to and then a nice tune you should have your target easily

i have not gone down this road yet however these are my plans seeing tho im trying to build a house aswell do my car

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

For a budget ~ 270rwkw I would look for:

2nd hand gcg highflow

044 / 040

Z32 afm

Nistune

Highflowed injectors

Don't forget you'll want a clutch and I highly recommend a diff

To go cheaper you could tune past the resolution of the stock afm bit it will be at the expense of low rpm tuning

[SimonR32]

Definitely under budgeting and poor part selection.

To start with, do not buy top feed injectors with intention to do an AM rail. This only works when using a Greddy style forward facing plenum. The stock plenum will foul top feed injectors. You will need side feeds OR to highflow your stock items as 10WRB has said.

Contact CEF11E on this forum regarding highflowing your injectors, he knows his work.

As for how to do the job and how to budget for it.. I would do it like this:

A GCG 3076 or 3071 kit for $2950. The turbo on its own is normally about $1700 new, the other $1200 is towards all your fittings such as lines and spacers, new studs etc. The kit also comes with a dump pipe that meets with the stock position front pipe. This kit comes with the CORRECT GARRET .82 turbine housing. The kit you are describing with a turbo for $1100 would have no rear housing, and an AVO housing is roughly $700. The AVO housing will have difficulty holding the right amount of boost and will struggle to make the power this turbo is capable of (as stated 250rwkw instead of the 300 its capable of). The GCG kit comes with THE RIGHT GEAR and is reasonably priced.

Link:

http://gcg.com.au/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=538&category_id=56&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53

From here you will need the following:

Intake pipe custom made $200 (reasonable expected cost)

Front pipe (if you dont have one already - one piece front and dump will need to be replaced if you have this) $300

Highflow cat (if you dont have already) $400

Intercooler pipes will meet up as the GCG kit comes with the silicon bend

The turbo will now be on the car and running. Now you will need:

Injectors $150-300 to highflow, $400-1200 to purchase sidefeeds (700+cc recommended)

ECU I would go a toshi remap $700ish to be safe - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/210097-power-fc-and-remap-ecu-road-tune-and-dyno-tune-available-in-sydneysending-to-other-state-and-over-seas-also-abailable-now/

Z32 AFM $300 if you shop around BNEW and then a R31 or VL AFM plug from pick and dont pay less (aka pick and pocket)

So theres your round $5000 or more. By the time you get a few extra niggly bits here and there too, its well and truly over that amount.

Another thing to note, if you opt to purchase the turbo elsewhere (not liking the $2950 price tag from GCG) prepare for the costs to add up very quickly when trying to source all the bits. You can get the lines and silicon bend sorted for around $300 on ebay, however the dump pipe will cost atleast $500 to $1000 depending on who you have make it for you and at what quality. The GCG kit is a reasonable price, do not overlook it.

If you really are tight on money, consider this option:

Hypergear hiflow (can get one made to do 270rwkw) $900-1200

Hiflow injectors $300

Toshi remap $700

Z32 AFM $300

One piece front and dump $179 from justjap (if you dont have one already)

Cat $200 (3" ceramic catco from justjap)

Theres $3000 tops and you will get your 270rwkw. It will not be the SAME 270rwkw, it will have different delivery and the debate about which is better still rages, however it will certainly equate to a decent and FAST car.

I am pretty sure this is the 4th time I have written such a post.. Maybe a guide is in order for the turbo FAQ section (mods let me know if you want this done - im happy to write something up with links and results).

I would agree with pretty much most of that being spot on! Depressing but realistic

The other option is possibly a HKS 2853pros or 3037pros (but I believe they are both now discontinued) or a HKS GTRS kit which might just make it to 270rwkw if pushed

Edited December 31, 2010 by SimonR32

[GTScotT]

Yep, unfortunately the HKS 2835 kit has been discontinued..

You should still be able to source the 2835KAI kit which would actually not break the bank (in relative terms) compared to the GCG GT30 route.

Speed cost dollars (and at times much more) unfortunately

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

imho on a budget you can have a nice smooth ~260rwkw... tops

anything above that becomes uglier... sure you can have a highflow that makes 300.... but it'll hate making it...

IMHO a responsive 260rwkw is way better than a laggy 300rwkw

[The Mafia]

Hey mate

I made 300rwkw easily on my turbo, I have a GT3076.

Here is what I did, on a budget.

1. Bought a Genuine Garett Turbo and housings. Don't buy anything else, or you'll sell yourself short. GT3076 with the 6 blade compressor wheel, 0.6 surge slotted compressor cover, 0.63 rear. I recommend the 0.82 rear, or stick to the 0.63 if your happy with a 270-280rwkw ceiling. Changing a rear housing is easy down the track if you want a little more. I just added water meth injection to help push mine to 315rwkw on the little 0.63 rear.

Cost: $1700 (Shop around)

2. Exhaust manifold to Turbo Rear Housing spacer. Yes, you need one. 10mm. It does not fit otherwise. The COmpressor housing hits. Get 2 x gaskets too.

3. Oil and water lines. Buy some braid and fittings, and make your own. Or get a mate to do it. Will be about $250.

4. Intake (Turbo inlet to AFM and pod, if you run an AFM). You'll need to get this fabricated. Allow about $300. Shop around.

5. Silicon Joiners and clamps. Allow around $150.

6. Turbo to cat Dump\Front pipe. These are about $450 - $500 to fabricate from stainless. Shop around, buy a decent made one. Even look for second hand ones. The User "DaleFZ1" has one for sale to suit a RB25, with a garrett turbo to RB25 cat. Its good quality and hes a very reliable user. He sold his because he needed a new one for his RB30 upgrade.

7. Injectors. Get something decent. You can get Hi Flows, or stick to brand name that you know are good. I used nismo 555cc side feeds, they can do about 320rwkw max. Don't buy ones that need collars,don't buy ones that need a new rail, and DO NOT buy a fuel pressure regulator. its a complete waste of money. Decent injectors to suit the factory rail.

Cost: Shop around. Anywhere between $400 and $600 for second hand and $900 for new ones.

8. ECU - You want something simple, effective, and easy to tune? Get a powerFC. You're not building a race\drag\drift car. The powerFC can be had for about $1100. Cheapest ECU by far. Nistune won't work for you. Vipec is about $2,000. Find a tuner that can do Powerfc. If they can't or don't like them, then find another tuner. They are the easiest ECU to tune by far.

9. Tune. Anywhere between $500 and $1000. It doesn't take that long. Depending on where you are located, people here will be able to point you to a good tuner.

10. Bigger AFM if you get a powerFC. Shop around. Z32 or Q45 AFMs are relatively cheap around the place if you look around. Anywhere betweem $50 and $150. Make sure it works, or get the person you buy it off to guarantee its ok.

11. Blow off valve. You *MIGHT* need a new one if the factory one can't hold the boost. If so, get a GTR one. KEEP IT PLUMB BACK. Don't get me started on dickheads with atmospheric BOVs, noise, cops, idle hunting, etc.

12. Luck. Sometimes things don't always go to plan. Hopefully you still have a good engine, with good compression, and hasn't had the guts thrashed out of it before you got it.

Add about $500 to the top of all of that for extras - Like Cans of Contact Cleaner, WD40, Sand paper, Saftey Goggles, tools, etc etc. Basically consumables.

If you have any cash left, then thats a bonus. Get some brakes or good suspension for the extra power you have.

Edited December 31, 2010 by The Mafia

[SimonR32]

11. Blow off valve. You *MIGHT* need a new one if the factory one can't hold the boost. If so, get a GTR one. KEEP IT PLUMB BACK. Don't get me started on dickheads with atmospheric BOVs, noise, cops, idle hunting, etc.

So much hate!!! I know what you are saying but there is a point when moving to a Type-R would be required and recommended...

270rwkw though is perfect territory for a GTR stocker

[Harey]

I am making 280rwkw with the standard bov.

If you spend more than the hypergear turbo, make sure you get a genuine garrett housing. You wouldnt believe how many people post up here with issues (mostly boost control and poor power) and after some more info we find out they have other housings that just dont seem to perform consistently.

[Simon-S14]

Hey mate

I made 300rwkw easily on my turbo, I have a GT3076.

Here is what I did, on a budget.

1. Bought a Genuine Garett Turbo and housings. Don't buy anything else, or you'll sell yourself short. GT3076 with the 6 blade compressor wheel, 0.6 surge slotted compressor cover, 0.63 rear. I recommend the 0.82 rear, or stick to the 0.63 if your happy with a 270-280rwkw ceiling. Changing a rear housing is easy down the track if you want a little more. I just added water meth injection to help push mine to 315rwkw on the little 0.63 rear.

Cost: $1700 (Shop around)

are you running internal or external gate? i have no problems with the .6 rear making well over 300 rwkw. but it is externally gated. if its internal then yeah it will choke up quick.

[Wheezy]

The only thing I would pick on in the GCG kits are the water lines. Use braided lines for EVERYTHING if you can. (Mafia mentioned braided in his post, that means oil and water lines)

[75coupe]

dont use the ebay oil & water lines, get proper ones with speedflow fittings made...

use a reputable tuner...!!!!!! dont cut cost it will only end up costing you more in the end

[The Mafia]

are you running internal or external gate? i have no problems with the .6 rear making well over 300 rwkw. but it is externally gated. if its internal then yeah it will choke up quick.

Don't cringe - But it was internally gated. And wasn't the "Improved and enlarged" version of gate either.

Worked well - Had no issues. Power delivery was pretty awesome.

[Simon-S14]

there ya go then. awesome power for an IG set up. same housing witgh EX gate will give you so much more tho

[R31Nismoid]

So much hate!!! I know what you are saying but there is a point when moving to a Type-R would be required and recommended...

270rwkw though is perfect territory for a GTR stocker

What point is that?

Through a single GTR BOV i made 370rwkw @ 24psi/GT3040.

Only had the slightest of surge as it was about the limit.

I've seen dual GTR BOV's (factory style) hold 550rwkw and 600rwkw at well over 30psi without surge.

Hard pressed to see a setup max GTR BOV's for pretty much everyone here.

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

i've run 2 bar through my gtst bov without hastles.... (only once tho)

[SimonR32]

What point is that?

Through a single GTR BOV i made 370rwkw @ 24psi/GT3040.

Only had the slightest of surge as it was about the limit.

I've seen dual GTR BOV's (factory style) hold 550rwkw and 600rwkw at well over 30psi without surge.

Hard pressed to see a setup max GTR BOV's for pretty much everyone here.

I'm all for GTR BOV, I had one on my RB20 running 26psi and 300rwkw! It also held 2bar on one dyno run no issues... but it made the compressor surge a tiny bit changing from 2nd to 3rd which was enough to sometimes upset the AFM and give it a flat spot

My setup now for example doesn't use a standard plenum or intake, to fabricate a BOV flange on the cold side cooler piping, return line from one side of the car to the other and a bung on the intake (which doesn't even have the AFM in it any more) is way too much effort compared to a Greddy Type-R which flows about double the GTR stocker

Edited January 4, 2011 by SimonR32

[75coupe]

atmo or plumb back BOV does it really matter, its about what works isnt it....

I had a HKS atmo on hand from a car I previously bought, used it on the new setup since I didnt want to have to run more plumbing from the FF plenum install side and what do you know it works, no idle issues, no stalling...

No I dont live in Vic, but really my 33 is in no way a sleeper and you know what Ive never had a defect and never been looked over even after being RBTs, speeding etc, 4 years and still going...

so I dont see the reason for the big debate every time someone mentions BOV... get over it...

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

vrooooooom PSSSSSSSSSH!!!!!!!!!

[75coupe]

well mines more of a pshttt tat tat tat tat thats just the way it went, it didnt sound like that at all on my previous setup...

[The Mafia]

atmo or plumb back BOV does it really matter, its about what works isnt it....

I had a HKS atmo on hand from a car I previously bought, used it on the new setup since I didnt want to have to run more plumbing from the FF plenum install side and what do you know it works, no idle issues, no stalling...

No I dont live in Vic, but really my 33 is in no way a sleeper and you know what Ive never had a defect and never been looked over even after being RBTs, speeding etc, 4 years and still going...

so I dont see the reason for the big debate every time someone mentions BOV... get over it...

Oh yes it does. I Can see in your below post that you have stuffed it up even though you think it is working.

well mines more of a pshttt tat tat tat tat thats just the way it went, it didnt sound like that at all on my previous setup...

You were saying that as long as it works? Looks like yours doesn't. You know why?

Your car wasn't running right so you tightened up your BOV, and now that it is going "tat tat tat"... That is what you call reversion.

So basically, your car stalled, and carried on, while you drove around trying to pick up fulleh sic naked womenz, you tightened the BOV up to fix it, to a point where it is opening only briefly because it is so tight (When you are off the throttle straight away, the vac goes to about -30psi and then declines to about 20 psi).

You see - BOV open between -30psi and around -24psi, and then when the car goes to -20psi, its closed and you're "tat tat tatting" to premature turbo failure via reversion..

How do I know? I tune cars. And mine did the same thing until I fixed it. Mine was a factory one that wasn't bypassing enough air. I had to fix the plumbing.

Also, putting a ATMO BOV is creating an airleak in your intake system. On Idle \ Vac, it is held open and sucking unmetered, unfiltered air. And If you still have an AFM - You're even more a fool.

Anyway, there is my little rant.

Edited January 4, 2011 by The Mafia