Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok before anyone says it, i've searched and after SAU upgraded, it can only go back so far so i couldn't find much info and i've checked the RB26 dyno thread but there wasn't many results + i am after people's personal experience with them.

my stock R34 GTR turbo seals are gone and need to be replaced. I was looking at finding a 2nd hand pair of R34 gtr units to replace but stumbled across these N1 units on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Rebuilt-GTR-Turbos-Kit-N1-Steel-CHANGEOVER-RB26-R32-R34-/120540442186?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c10c52e4a#ht_696wt_905

Seller states that they are rebuilt R33 GTR turbos with steel wheels & 360 degree thrust bearings + they give warranty also.

**Has anyone purchased the rebuilt N1 turbos off ebay??**

How laggy are the N1 turbos over stock GTR turbos?

Does anyone have any dyno graphs to show when it would hit full boost (say 1-1.4bar)?

I just want to see whether or not they're heaps laggy or just slightly laggier then stock units.

i am not after overall power and prefer something with near stock response.

I have all the usual upgrades (bigger injectors, ecu & map sensor)

Any help much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348826-n1-turbo-queries/
Share on other sites

R34 GTR stockers are ball bearing, R32 & R33 GTR stockers are journal/thrust bearing not to mention an outdated design compared to the R34 stockers, they will be laggy as.. and at the price that seller is asking, do yourself a favor and buy a pair of genuine -7's

And remember these are "N1 spec" not actually N1 turbos at all, so they're possibly worse than genuine N1 turbos

R34 N1 are identical to Garrett -7s. Positive pressure at 2000rpm, response is close enough to stock. There not laggy/doughy unless there's something wrong with your car....Here's mine;

med_gallery_15274_3730_12528.jpg

Woah! 300kW at 16psi? Thats very nice. I thought that figure will only come in at around 20psi. The 34 N1s are definitely better.

lets get some facts straight here

ball bearing turbos do not spool faster , journal turbos are floating on oil

The good thing about journal bearing turbos is they can be rebuilt. Try that with your ball bearing turbos

N1 turbos are not laggy if you find they are then look at your tuner not at your turbos

Just because some one had a mates cousins dad with a bad N1 turbo tune it seems to have become an internet rule that N1 as laggy.

And to be honest with the crap that garret has been delivering of late who would want to buy new turbos from them

Edited by waxracing

R33/32 GTR N1 Turbos ARE LAGGY.

To say they are not shows that it is you who knows not what he is talking about. They are effectively a 20yr old design now.

R34 N1 carry the updated wheels, and cartridge from Garrett that was done for the R34 only. No tuner can magically make old technology as good as new technology.

There are a few results inthe dyno thread of the older ones, andusers have posted plenty about that fact for a long time given some people must use them due to racing class restriction.

R33/32 GTR N1 Turbos ARE LAGGY.

To say they are not shows that it is you who knows not what he is talking about. They are effectively a 20yr old design now.

R34 N1 carry the updated wheels, and cartridge from Garrett that was done for the R34 only. No tuner can magically make old technology as good as new technology.

There are a few results inthe dyno thread of the older ones, andusers have posted plenty about that fact for a long time given some people must use them due to racing class restriction.

It shows you have a bad tune, I have been a few cars with n1 turbos that are not laggy. All turbos up to till the borg warner efr are old technology.

I'm not interested in an internet flaming war as to whose cousin had lag issues etc.

It shows you have a bad tune, I have been a few cars with n1 turbos that are not laggy. All turbos up to till the borg warner efr are old technology.

I'm not interested in an internet flaming war as to whose cousin had lag issues etc.

"Laggy" is in the eye for the beholder, so you guys should probably avoid that term. Can we at least agree that 32/33 N1s are laggier than 34 N1s, and therefore if you were looking at new turbos you'd only go for the 32/33s if you had to due to competition rules?

"Laggy" is in the eye for the beholder, so you guys should probably avoid that term. Can we at least agree that 32/33 N1s are laggier than 34 N1s, and therefore if you were looking at new turbos you'd only go for the 32/33s if you had to due to competition rules?

True. But I'd say anything below 3000rpm shouldnt be considered laggy at all.

positive pressure below 3000rpm doesnt mean the turbo isnt laggy, its also how long it takes to ramp up to full boost from then,

my car has bolt on N1's and they are really responsive compared to a mates N1 GTR with factory N1's and poncams,

i have tuned both cars and mine will make full boost 1000rpm earlier, have tried cam gears in all different positions and other tricks but his N1's are Laggy.

so... some N1's are laggier than others,

They give you the speed graph because it's accurate, whereas RPM may not be as they have to "configure" it with the right values to show RPM correctly. This means working out rolling diameter of the wheels and diff ratio exactly.

I had the old N1 (bush bearing) turbos. take it from me, they are laggy, i have a dyno sheet in the RB26 thread -> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/93880-rb26-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page__view__findpost__p__5112467

The engine was thrown in my car with these turbo's I bought them as stock ones, so i didn't question it.. we thought we had issues with the boost controller and a restrictive exhaust. It turned out they were the old Group A turbos you are describing.

They would start to spin up at any speed, you could hear them. But really the car wouldn't come alive until around 7psi, they're great for big cheap power and you can put a tonne of boost through them like the old gibson r32 did (2bar+??).

I have since sold them and gone to stock turbos. next purchase will be a medium sized single or some R34 N1's.. as most of my decisions are based on cost Vs performance.

I had the old N1 (bush bearing) turbos. take it from me, they are laggy, i have a dyno sheet in the RB26 thread -> http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__5112467

The engine was thrown in my car with these turbo's I bought them as stock ones, so i didn't question it.. we thought we had issues with the boost controller and a restrictive exhaust. It turned out they were the old Group A turbos you are describing.

They would start to spin up at any speed, you could hear them. But really the car wouldn't come alive until around 7psi, they're great for big cheap power and you can put a tonne of boost through them like the old gibson r32 did (2bar+??).

I have since sold them and gone to stock turbos. next purchase will be a medium sized single or some R34 N1's.. as most of my decisions are based on cost Vs performance.

N1 turbos and group A turbos are not the same thing. The group A turbos are bigger

They give you the speed graph because it's accurate, whereas RPM may not be as they have to "configure" it with the right values to show RPM correctly. This means working out rolling diameter of the wheels and diff ratio exactly.

No you dont, its this simple, hold speed at 100km/h, load up the dynoto say 40-50rwkw, look at ecu/hand controller to see accurate rpm, enter into dyno. It takes about 30 seconds, or of you have the pickup option on th edyno it takes about 10 seconds to select rpm as the scale instead of km/h

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...