Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hehe I meant to say width, thanks for the info. I run 235 45s on the front and they are ok I just want to see if you could fit a larger tyre in there.

ran 17x9inch +20 with 235 on my track gts-t with no issue on the front, when i added another 5mm spacer it was pushing it

  • 2 months later...

ha ha, nah no 'attempted' drifting in this thing.

No updates really, collecting parts but Im just flat out at work and away a fair bit so no time to really do anything.

Had a day off yesterday so did a quick trip to repco, bought 90bucks worth of paint and took to the wheels.

The anodizing on the te37's were worn down anyway, and i thought i'd give this a shot before paying to get them powdercoated.

Turned out really really good, very happy with em.

post-3412-0-05134800-1301390978_thumb.jpg

post-3412-0-44516100-1301390986_thumb.jpg

  • 9 months later...

No updates as I've been overseas for work for a little while, however watch this space in the coming months.

The amount of parts i have sitting at home is actually scaring me a little, I don't know where to start.

Parts include:

3076 ext gate

3.5" ti exhaust

r34 gtr crank

a couple sets of BIG brakes(one being a carbon ceramic set if i can get them to fit :) )

peterson dry sump pump and tank

18x9.5 te37sl's

racetech seat

aeromotions wing

plus about 40+ other things

yeah, you get the idea. First thing will be to strip it and start the fabrication work(ie rollcage plus a couple other goodies ;) )

Can't wait to get back :)

  • 2 weeks later...

ran 17x9inch +20 with 235 on my track gts-t with no issue on the front, when i added another 5mm spacer it was pushing it

I'm interested to know what ride height was used with this setup, and also whether this one or Simon's had any clearance issues with the front upright near full lock?

This build is taking its time but the collection of goodies sure looks to being as good as it gets for a 2wd R33.

with the ride height as seen above I did have rubbing issues close to full lock, but that was only on the spash guards. So i removed the splash guards, tidied up the wiring under the guard, and no rubbing at all.

The 9.5's shouldnt have any issue at all, however im going to try and run 265's on the front so we'll see how that goes. If it rubs i just might need to space them out and pull the guard a tad.

Reason why this build is taking it's time is because i've been working overseas for 7 months, but back next week and the build shall begin

  • 2 weeks later...

well just did some easy things today while it was raining.

Put on some numbers for the super sprint series.

Installed an aeromotions R2 wing, just need to wire some power up to it. Install went easy, always fun cutting and drilling bits out of your car.

Fitted some 18x9.5 +22 te37 sl's with 265 ad08 rubber all round. Fronts just clear the arms, just. I thought it would be harder getting 265's on the

front of a gtst but so far so good. Sticks out a little tad, but i have camber arms to go on shortly so no big deal there. Bought some metal open ended wheel nuts with floating rings on the bottom of them. Expensive but well worth it.

Also fitted an omp flat bottom suede steering wheel, and some carbon gt style mirrors. Couldn't find them for an r33, so i bought a set for an s14 and what do you know, bolt on ;)

In the next few days I'll put on a trust 3.5 in titanium exhaust, hks oil cooler and i'll be completely gutting the inside of the car, getting ready for a cage.

post-3412-0-12209100-1328852593_thumb.jpg

post-3412-0-98043400-1328852614_thumb.jpg

post-3412-0-17028200-1328852669_thumb.jpg

post-3412-0-78909900-1328852695_thumb.jpg

so while i'm getting the rest of the car ready, looking for a bare rb25 block to start the engine build.

This is what I've got so far:

R34 Gtr crank

Cp Rb26 Pistons 9:1

Spool Rb26 rods

ATI 1000hp rb26 damper w/oil pump drive

arp main and head studs

Supertech valve springs, titanium retainers, valve stem seals

Hks 256/264 cams with tomei exhaust cam wheel(retaining vct)

Peterson 4 stage dry sump pump

Peterson tank

Fitting for the pump and sump

All i need is a custom sump made up.

Intake/exhaust wise i'm running a smaller turbo to start with, and we'll see how response goes(which should be awesome) but chances are the turbo may run out of puff in the high revs, so we'll play around with that.

gt3076r .63 rear housing external gate

tial 44mm wastegate

hks manifold

greddy inlet manifold

q45 throttle body

z32 afm

power fc

Fuel wise i have a walbro intank, which will lead to a surge tank, with an 044 feeding off that into a high flow fuel filter, running into tomei

740cc injectors with a sard fpr.

If anyone knows of a cheap rb25 block let us know ;)

Rear wing looks great. Power? Is it cabin adjustable?

Not sold on the flat bottomed steering wheel.

The engine shopping list is extensive and looks pretty good. Don't discount the use of a stock RB25 throttle though; it will pass more than enough air mass for whatever a GT30 or 35 can throw at it. And also make for easier tuning off-idle.

yeah the greddy manifold that i purchased came with a q45 throttle body, so I was going to use it as it is still attached.

Will do some more research into that vs an rb25 throttle body now. Thanks for that.

Yeah the aeromotions wing is not only cabin adjustable, but also runs off a g-meter and speed meter. So you can program it to change angles

depending on speed, corners etc etc

Fitted the trust 3.5inch titanium exhaust today, hell of alot louder than my twin exhaust, and a fair bit lighter.

Also fitted some cusco front camber arms. Haven't measured it yet but should be around -2.5dg to -3dg camber.

Put some clips on the side of the front bar/guard to make it easier to take the front bar off too.

post-3412-0-14073200-1329018496_thumb.jpg

post-3412-0-07926700-1329018506_thumb.jpg

post-3412-0-73465400-1329018519_thumb.jpg

didnt have too much time today, so just fitted some bonnet pins for my secondary bonnet restraints, and also some universal canards to the front.

When i get my new front bar made I'll be getting some larger custom canards, but these should be alright for now. I did have some autoselect copy ones that i was going to fit, but they wouldn't fit the front bar. If anyone with a 33 gtr front bar wants em give me a bell ;)

Throwing on the hks oil cooler tomorrow, and starting to strip the interior(what's left of it).

post-3412-0-02917100-1329110812_thumb.jpg

Ok, so yesterday i removed the whole aircon system. Pain in the ass to get one of the bolts off the pump, but with

alot of swearing managed to pry it off.

After that i installed the hks oil cooler kit, pretty straight foward. With the aircon removed, i decided to

mount it in front of the radiator for now. Gives me more space to utlize my brake ducts.

Also fitted a carbon headlight duct to get a bit more air in to the filter. Wasn't a perfect fit, but it will do. I'll see how it goes.

Today, removed the washer bottle and lines, the rear wiper assembly, which by the way carries alot of weight.

Then removed the seats, stripped the interior down to the dash and front 2 seat belts.

Tomorrow i'll go get some dry ice and start on that bitch of a job that is sound deadening :(

post-3412-0-37406500-1329272835_thumb.jpg

post-3412-0-11783800-1329272876_thumb.jpg

post-3412-0-16635800-1329272921_thumb.jpg

post-3412-0-70776300-1329272947_thumb.jpg

post-3412-0-74911800-1329273011_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...