Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

EDIT COMPLETE, here's my consumption

And I didn't drive it like a grandma. Keep in mind I said standard....so it was 190rwkw with standard everything except for FMIC, pod filter, JJR coilpacks, and 11psi

post-60560-0-23881400-1294225085_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

well atm i have had them for year. car idles fine, cold start always been good, makes 282rwkw on 15psi

mind u thats on a rich (11.5afr) e85 tune! re tune in a week or two for 25psi.

What Ive heard is it all depends on who does it. If they do a good job then it should be fine but also if its dodgy can be a disaster. Ive even heard of some guys freind doing it for him in hes own garage and aparently no complaints lol.

But personally I like to spend the extra and know 100percent I know what is in there is quality so in my book nismos ftw,

I just picked up from the guys at PRO-RACE a set of seimens 650cc injectors $492 ret, a top feed rail $290 ret, and a set if injector plugs from Coventrys $50 ret. I think its the cheapest way and its all brand new so you should not have any problems.

I'm personally not a fan of hi-flowed injectors, probably from one bad experience. A friend of mine had hi-flowed injectors on his 200SX and no matter what I did on the PowerFC I couldn't get A/F on idle or light cruise.

I suspect bad spray pattern, yes it will flow what you want, but it's pretty much acting like a hose spraying petrol instead of misting it.

Please note, I said from "bad experience".

i got my injectors hi-flowed by PJ Quick bits.

600cc @ 43psi

850cc @ 60psi

all flowed within 1-2cc of each other.

no issues yet with run in tune, pulled around 180rwkw @ 8psi, full tune in 1.5wks so i will report back with any issues.

I also had a set done by cef1ie and found them to work fine. Later sold them to another member and never heard back on a complaint. Cef1ie also ran the same thing in his own car to great results.

In the end I got a set of injectors back with one hole rather than 4, so it seems consistent with what was mentioned in the thread above.

ive got 740cc hi flowed injectors, not long after installing them my car developed a bad misfire from idle to 2000rpm, turned out to be inferior quality pindle caps fitted when they were high flowed, quite annoying that a 2c part ended up costing quite a bit in labour to have fixed.

my mechanic isnt a big fan of the high flows, as mentioned he reckons that when they are high flowed the spray pattern is pretty much wrecked. Idle and cold start isnt the best either, once its warm though its fine, apart from that though they do the job.

car is 214rwkw@10psi

Edited by bsd-gtst

i spoke to cef1ie and he said he doesnt touch the pindle at all just the screen so incorrect fitted pindle caps is a load of s*** so in saying that the spray pattern is not changed because the pindle is not touched

Edited by luvpsi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...