Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok peep i have read and taken in whats said on this sight

my issue is

i have access to a r34 n1 (vspec) engine and all associated elecs from a front cut

i want to put it into my r32 gtr and restore it back to a streetable package

i know there are a few wiring cam and cas differences

however i was wondering can i use the r34 loom and ecu ect in the 32 without to much trouble?

what would be invoved / any wiring mods? ect

i will be using the 32 box and clutch

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349946-engine-swap/
Share on other sites

any relevant attached posts / links would be greatfull

Links for what mate?

You simply use the entire R34 GTR ignition system. coil/CAS to loom to ECU.

If you need further information above that then your going to struggle to do a conversion at all!

Pull it out of one, put it into the other. you have a front cut so it's all there!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349946-engine-swap/#findComment-5620957
Share on other sites

Ash are you forgetting that the ECU loom plugs into the body loom as well?

Ive no experience on this directly but im assuming that the 34 ECU loom wouldnt plug into the 32 body loom.

In GTS/t, the 32, 33, 34 these plugs are all different.

You would be better off using a 32 CAS, sensors and Ignition systems with the 32 ECU loom dude.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349946-engine-swap/#findComment-5620971
Share on other sites

Unless I'm recalling this very badly from when i did mine...

the loom goes from ECU plug to where you plug in the coil pack loom. My one from Nissan came as one complete part. The body loom should be plug and play as the GTR loom was almost perfectly plug/play into my HR31.

So assumption is GTR to GTR would be identical?

I'm only saying what i am as he wants to use 34ecu and loom, so its literally a swap in/swap out job. take a couple hours at best.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349946-engine-swap/#findComment-5620983
Share on other sites

i would use your R32 ignition setup (coils, ignitor and harness). use your 32 ecu and harness. Keep the R34 cas (as 32 cas won't match the 34 drive on the cam snout) but you need to swap 2 wires around to get it working with the 32 ecu. simple as that.

other than that there are a few little differences. top radiator pipe on the engine is different. bolt your 32 one onto the 34 engine. that's about it off the top of my head.

much easier this way.

oh, put your R32 sump onto the 34 engine too. otherwise you will have one major problem. the 34 front gearing is massively different to the R32, so if you use the 34 diff and sump you'll end up with different ratios front and rear. with both engines out of the car it's easier to just swap sumps rather that set up the old 32 diff into the 34 housing. and there is no advantage in using the 34 sump over your 32 one. same goes for the diff centre, they are both open diffs, just with different crown wheel to pinion ratios.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349946-engine-swap/#findComment-5621159
Share on other sites

The body loom should be plug and play as the GTR loom was almost perfectly plug/play into my HR31.

definately not true. the hr31 body plug is massively different to later skylines. your confusing it for something else, or your car was already modified. afaik every model has a different plug to suit its own electric package

Edited by JonnoHR31
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349946-engine-swap/#findComment-5621800
Share on other sites

i would use your R32 ignition setup (coils, ignitor and harness). use your 32 ecu and harness. Keep the R34 cas (as 32 cas won't match the 34 drive on the cam snout) but you need to swap 2 wires around to get it working with the 32 ecu. simple as that.

other than that there are a few little differences. top radiator pipe on the engine is different. bolt your 32 one onto the 34 engine. that's about it off the top of my head.

much easier this way.

oh, put your R32 sump onto the 34 engine too. otherwise you will have one major problem. the 34 front gearing is massively different to the R32, so if you use the 34 diff and sump you'll end up with different ratios front and rear. with both engines out of the car it's easier to just swap sumps rather that set up the old 32 diff into the 34 housing. and there is no advantage in using the 34 sump over your 32 one. same goes for the diff centre, they are both open diffs, just with different crown wheel to pinion ratios.

R32 GTR 4.1:1 R34 3.545:1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349946-engine-swap/#findComment-5622038
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...