Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

VQ25DET engine oiltype.

I was hoping to use Royal Purple to do an oil change but cant locate a supplier in Brisbanes western suburbs

I was going to use a fully synthetic 10w-40w synthetic. what is a good second choice /

The 50 odd pages on oil in the skyline forums don't relate to this motor and opinion is very diverse because of the different motors spoken of.

does the turbo run off the engine oil?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350673-vq25det-engine-oil-type-to-use/
Share on other sites

yes the turbo uses the engine oil for lubrication and some cooling (there are water lines for additional cooling)

a 5w30 or 10w40 is fine. even a 10w30.

nissan say 7.5w30 but only they make that weight. im trying factory nissan oil on the next change (hopefully this weekend coming)

VR38DETT GTR uses mobil 1, 0W- 40 at Nissan service... can't be bad!

I think its pretty much been covered before, but most agree a high quality oil form Gulf Western, Motul or Royal Purple. 5L of it.

oils are one of these things people get picky about. So there are loads of opinions flying round.

Nissan oil defiantly isn't derived from a Motul oil stock, trying to think back to the last time I actually looked into this once before and for some reason either Castrol or Caltex keep popping into my head over who manufactures Nissan's retail bottled oil.

Either way, I use Castrol Edge 5w-30, its a good synthetic oil for the price otherwise yeah, lots of options under the sun. Motul oils are widely used (Turbolight and X-Cess come to mind) and they're a great oil. Again nothing wrong with Royal Purple, that stuff there is like liquid candy for your engine so its a real treat.

And there is absolutely nothing wrong with Nissan's own spec oil either, I can't remember if its a mineral or synthetic base stock oil though but they have only the 1 oil suits all for their petrol engines which as Iain said is 7.5w30, a strange number Nissan come up with but there you go.

If you really, really want to find out a bit more about which oils are really good, good, not so good and crap, invest a day or so at Bob Is The Oil Guy and have a look at the forums and results there.

As an aside, I have been changing every 10,000kms with a Group V oil and my Stagea has passed 200,000kms and is still running beautifully.

Nissan oil defiantly isn't derived from a Motul oil stock, trying to think back to the last time I actually looked into this once before and for some reason either Castrol or Caltex keep popping into my head over who manufactures Nissan's retail bottled oil.

Last time I looked into it there was evidence that Nissan uses or has used a Motul derived oil. I can't find any of the links (with a quick search). I don't know if this is fact, like most keyboard warriors I am only repeating what I have read.

Any decent semi-syn or synthetic oil with around 10w-40w will do the job fine as long as you service the car with sensible intervals. With the low cost of oil testing it is worthwhile sending a sample away if you want to know what is happening inside your engine.

gulf western sougi s6000 is the cheapest you can get in a great syn (as good in my opinion as anything else) and comes in at about $60

royal purple can be bought through autobarn for about $100

or motul 300v chrono will be about $120

i haven't used the others but the gulf western oil is great

i ran nulon syn but apparently its only a group 3 syn whereas the others listed above are group 5

the nulon got noisy after about 3000 kms

gulf western sougi s6000 is the cheapest you can get in a great syn (as good in my opinion as anything else) and comes in at about $60

royal purple can be bought through autobarn for about $100

or motul 300v chrono will be about $120

i haven't used the others but the gulf western oil is great

i ran nulon syn but apparently its only a group 3 syn whereas the others listed above are group 5

the nulon got noisy after about 3000 kms

+1

Just too bad that the Sougi S6000 is now discontinued :down:

If ever there was a case where shit marketing let an awesome product down, that would be it.

Also agree with Nulon. Full synthetic my arse.

(it doesn't go well in Magna's either :ermm: )

Last time I looked into it there was evidence that Nissan uses or has used a Motul derived oil. I can't find any of the links (with a quick search). I don't know if this is fact, like most keyboard warriors I am only repeating what I have read.

Any decent semi-syn or synthetic oil with around 10w-40w will do the job fine as long as you service the car with sensible intervals. With the low cost of oil testing it is worthwhile sending a sample away if you want to know what is happening inside your engine.

I requested an oil test and got a company in Sydney reply that it wouldn't be worth my while so I didn't pursue this.

Who have you used?

There was a thread on this in forced induction recently started by Duncan but if you can't find anything useful there, Dan at Elite Racing Developments in Qld should be able to point the way to who he uses but pretty much they send you a sample jar to be returned.

I use the penrite full synth 5w30 it comes in around $50 and after 5 to 6 thousand kms it's still smooth running and not too dark when drained..

I've been using penrite for years Now since all my 4AGE modding days and never had any probs never saw any build- up and deposits when pulling apart engines.

That's just my 2cents..

oil should be dark when drained

it has degreasers and detergents in it and its a common misconception that clean oil is good oil

if it comes out clean then its not doing its job

oil should be dark when drained

it has degreasers and detergents in it and its a common misconception that clean oil is good oil

if it comes out clean then its not doing its job

AMEN to that. finally someone who knows what used oil should look like when its drained from an engine.

^^ ok let me rephrase it is definately darker just not sludgy like some lower line oils come out.. Full synth oils definately come out cleaner after 5000kms then a semi/ mineral base since there meant for longer use.

U can't argue that. I'm not saying it makes an oil better or worse it's just a fact.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...