Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I've got the manifold on its way through to post to me at the moment. Got a friend donating the turbo to me in the next couple of days. Just paid for the cam gear. The car is getting painted this weekend, so i'll start installing stuff next week. I'd just like to know if there is anything else you think i should do before the tune?

R33 S1 RB25DET

GT3076 0.82 External Gate

Cheap 600x300x76 Front Mount Cooler

KKR 50mm wastegate plumbed in.

Nahux front pipe, Very high flow cat :P, 3" exhaust

Z32 AFM, S15 480cc injectors, Pod, Big sard fuel reg

PowerFC (no hand controller)

Shimmed-up R33 (automatic, different ratio?) diff

Adjustable Cam Gear

Bosch 040

I was thinking a front facing plenum maybe? I don't so much want peak power as I want responsive street-able/driftable power, so maybe stock intake isn't so bad? I don't want to spend $1000 for a tiny difference, but is there anything else you guys think i should get? How bad is a cheaper cooler with this setup? I don't want a better one for bragging rights, but just wondered if the expensive ones would make an actual noticeable difference?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350785-critique-my-setup/
Share on other sites

get a hand controller, it will save you endless guessing "why is my engine light flashing" and how do it change this

the auto diff from memory is 3.9 and maunal is 4.11 so you will loose a touch of response for top end speed

ah there you go, it is 4.3

thats odd, i would have expected highway style gears for auto

4.363 - R34 RB25DE 4WD, R34 RB25DE Manual, R34 RB20E, R33 RB25DE 4WD, R33 RB25DET Auto, R33 RB25DE, R32 RB20DET, R32 RB20E,

C35 Laurel RB25DE 4WD Auto, C34 Laurel RB25DE 4WD Auto, C34 Laurel RB25DE Auto, C33 Laurel RB20DE Manual

A31 Cerfiro RB20DET, A31 Cerfiro RB20DE Manual, S13 CA18DET, S13 CA18DE, C23 Serena SR20DE 2WD, C23 Serena CD20T 2WD

4.111 - R34 RB25DET Auto, R33 RB25DET Manual, C35 Laurel RB25DET Auto, C35 Laurel RB20DE Auto, C34 Laurel RB25DET Auto, C34 Laurel RB20DE Auto,

S13 SR20DE (ABS),

If you have a non stock diff you should be able to find the ratio in this table if you know what car it came out of: http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/lsd/pdf/lsd_price.pdf

Forget the FF plenum for now - a lot of work and money for minimal gain. How bad is your fmic? Worth having a good one even if its second hand. The key to success is a really good tuner!!!

Maybe bigger fuel pump??

really an 040 isnt big enough???

mines flowing enough to feed 550cc injectors without a fuel reg or rail pressure bump and Im sure Ive read it can supply larger injectors too.

clutch will be an issue, also potentially coil packs that are 15yrs old.

and just because both might be fine initially, budget for them to fail in less than 12 months so that's another 2000 easily.

so obviously forget the plenum, you have other expenses to worry about yet.

other things like brakes and tyres cause extra power means harder on those two areas which are probably gonna be another 2k in the next 12 months or so.

plus servicing ;)

you also make no mention of a dump pipe either.

I used to have an r33 GTS-t at roughly the same level of tune as you, and would just like to note that while the forward facing plenum may not net massive kw per se, it does eliminate a lot of intercooler plumbing once you have a front mount setup - I'm assuming your plumbing currently comes up from the drivers side guard, snakes its way across the engine back above the radiator to link back up to the crossover inlet? I found it was a small but noticeable change in response when I had the plumbing shoot straight up into a forward facing manifold.

Anyway something to think about. I have seen modified inlet plenums that have been cut and shut to put the throttle body on the front but unless you can weld alloy yourself it may be cheaper to buy one off the shelf.

I think the injectors will come back to bite you later on as they are borderline size. I am guessing your hoping for the best part of 300rwkw on 98. This will most likely be just ok. But I think they will be running very high duty cycle at this power. Then if you ever want more or want to try E85 they will be too small. Looks like you plan on increasing the fuel pressure, this can have a side effect of making the fuel pump work a lot harder and as pressure increases, a fuel pumps flow decreases.

As ash said, no mention of dump pipe or upgraded clutch.

Hard one with the intercooler, could be ok, might be a restriction, impossible to say.

Apart from that looks good.

How much power is it currently making on how much boost?

E85 could be something to consider if you want to run more boost but I suspect with stock pistons etc you don't want to.

Personally I'd fork out for some good semi slicks, suspension bushes and then go enjoy it, looks like a perfect engine combo for some track work and as a street car. Either do this or just leave it as is and save the cash, no real need to spend anything else on it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...