Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

why? theres twice as many joints to fail..

Yeah only if the joints used are under rated for the application. Many 500hp applications still use the factory tailshaft.

2 piece shafts are stronger. It's a fact and any driveshaft specialist will say the same.

Going back to a previous post by someone, the falcon tailshaft made from alloy....Aluminium is lighter, therefore it has a much higher critical speed and they use a 3inch tube from memory. The longer the shaft, the stronger the material has to be or you have to lighten the shaft and/or make the tube diameter larger as well. The larger the diameter and the lighter it is, the critical speed goes up further. That is why carbon fibre shafts are probably the best material you can use. Extremely strong, extremely light.

About 6 months ago I got my 2 peice rebuilt from my 300rwkw R34. 1st drive I popped the clutch at about 4k RPM in 1st and blew 3 uni joints to peice's. I then returned said tail shaft and it was then forwared onto spicer, who refused to warrant the parts as they beleived I had either put huge power or locked the shaft some how. My question was, "how would you suggest a way that I could snap all 3 uni's in 1 go with out smashing out the bottom of my car?" they couldn't answer me. Luckily the workshop that built it for me where as confused as I was and met me half way with building a complete new 1 peice shaft.

A 1 peice shaft deffinitly transmit alot more vibration into the car but from what I can tell should almost be indestructable as it's much bulkier then original.

regards

Chris

About 6 months ago I got my 2 peice rebuilt from my 300rwkw R34. 1st drive I popped the clutch at about 4k RPM in 1st and blew 3 uni joints to peice's. I then returned said tail shaft and it was then forwared onto spicer, who refused to warrant the parts as they beleived I had either put huge power or locked the shaft some how. My question was, "how would you suggest a way that I could snap all 3 uni's in 1 go .......................

regards

Chris

Got any photos?

Reason I ask, the shop I use does routine maintenance work for BMW and Merc. Both these cars have non-replaceable uni joints same as the Skylines.

Whenever I get a shaft built it's done with new yokes that have conventional circlipped-in replaceable unis, there's very few Nissan components left when he's finished.

BUT the guys from BM and Merc won't have non-original components on their cars, they have the peened-in design yokes machined for circlips, pass them over to him and he re-builds the shaft.

There's practically no metal left in the yokes.

I'd be interested to see if your re-built shaft was done that way.

Got any photos?

Reason I ask, the shop I use does routine maintenance work for BMW and Merc. Both these cars have non-replaceable uni joints same as the Skylines.

Whenever I get a shaft built it's done with new yokes that have conventional circlipped-in replaceable unis, there's very few Nissan components left when he's finished.

BUT the guys from BM and Merc won't have non-original components on their cars, they have the peened-in design yokes machined for circlips, pass them over to him and he re-builds the shaft.

There's practically no metal left in the yokes.

I'd be interested to see if your re-built shaft was done that way.

hey Jiffo,

unfortunatly I never took any photo's of the shaft when it sheered all the uni's. I know exactly what your saying, yes the shaft was the peened style and machined the yoke to suit the circlip style. when it failed, none of the actual yokes broke, it sheered the actualle centres out of all of them. I would have though that machining the yokes would have caused them to be weaker and snap there first but it didn't.

Chris

lets see. i wonder what most race cars and drag cars use.. as long as the driveline angle is in check (most of the time its not..) i cant see any problems. besides a longer shaft will have more twist and hence be nicer to the unies..

i had massive issues with mine... and i needed a new cv joint.. but apparently... (i got told) that there is i think it was 3 bearings.. like a centre and a front and a back...

it was weird...

But i dont know too much about tailshafts.... plus i think that mechanic was dodgy....

lets see. as long as the driveline angle is in check (most of the time its not..)

Exactly right.

99% of owners don't realise you must run your flanges parallel.

That usually means packing the diff, stiffer engine mounts and some serious dimension checking.

Comparing a 25 box with a sliding yoke to a GT4 box with an output flange is also useless, the shaft must have some in/out flexibility either from the CV or a spline.

Running a sliding yoke style box with a worn out extension bearing is also asking for vibrations.

A stock 2-piece will let you get away with a lot of these faults, they may not even be noticed by the average driver, but a 1-piece will show them up big time.

Wonder how many 1-piece owners have fitted a shaft hoop where the centre bearing used to live?

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

what sort of horespower are the stock 2 piece shafts cappable of?

i know someone earlier said they have been using around the 500 to 600 hp mark but what application are you using your car for? street, drift, drag, track?

if anyone is using a stock shaft with slicks at the drags would be handy to know the following..

*horsepower

*revs on launch

*tyres being used

cheers

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

just ordered myself a one piece cromolly tailshaft of uniqiue autosports for my r34gtr it has 360klw at the wheels,will let u guys know how it go's fingers crossed i dont get problems, its totally made will all new parts and its costing me $1500 john seems to know his shit we running a cv type flange on the rear and beefed up unis on the front with mark williams yokes

  • 7 months later...

I have a new shaft being built atm, im running 3 inch heavier tube, with uni's that are a 30mm cap x 90mm uni with external clips and all replaceable uni's. Will be a 2 piece shaft. The builder said they make them for 1000hp drag cars with no failures. Should well exceed my needs.

where are you looking at getting these built from? is their specific shops that specialize in performance tailshafts?

Hardy spicer

Fark! i've got a 1 piece built by ADL, it's been fine so far, fark! i'm going to have to change it

Why?

Hardy spicer

Why?

Ring any tailshaft maker in your area and they should tell you that a tube shaft of the length required in a skyline (I think it's around 50inches) will go critical at 6000-6500rpm. The harmonic inbalance is usually so harsh that they bend or buckle as a result.

Of course it depends on the material they are made from, how thick and the diameter of the tube but 2 piece shafts are stronger, much stronger. We put 600+hp through them all the time without hassles

this info seems to be on the money, my shaft is just over 50 inches :whistling: , compared with 4wd which is around 10 inches shorter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...