Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys my name is Sherry.

My first Car was a Nissan Skyline TI. Now i finally have my full license i want to turn my car into a burnout car for events at eastern creek and summernats.

Im not too sure of what i want to do with it yet, But i want to keep it naturally aspirated.

I am thinking a 460 BB but i dont want to be greedy, also possibly thinking a 5lt. But i also do realise i need to consider power to weight.

Any Suggestions are more than welcome!!

Thanks :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351831-skyline-ti-burnout-car/
Share on other sites

ok, I never even thought of the coyote, how do you think that would go with my engine bay though. would i have to change anything to be able to fit it in? Also how do you think it would go power to weight ratio??

Please excuse any "silly" questions, this is the first car i want to build myself :blush:

a mate of mine had a worked rb30E powered 31. went well for what it was, but a v8 would be better. know of another guy in town with a datsun stanza burnout car. pretty sure it has a natro sr20 in it. they start in 2nd gear and stay in 2nd gear. if the revs start to drop too much they give it a squirt of nitrous to pick the revs back up. you want torque for a burnout car so that you can get into the highest gear possible (the faster the tyres are going, the more smoke you'll get). this also means you can get plenty of smoke without having to keep it banging on the limiter, which helps with engine temps and engine life.

silly question.... rb30 E what does the E stand for? Also what KW did they get for that?

i like the sound of the coyote engine but also have to think of suspension n all that shiznit... im seriously leaning towards something of 5l or 5.7. If i go much bigger i think it will throw out my power to weight too much

:rolleyes: i am a sucker for Muscle though, coming from a family of mechanics

I want something to stand out from everything else. Hence why i dont want a turbo.

You want to stand out but you want to put a V8 in for something like Summernats...

Windsor 302...can get them dirt cheap, will be fine for the weight of the car, can get in carby or EFI configuration, relatively small engine, myriad of aftermarket parts available.

The E in RB30E stands for electronic fuel injection.

Windsor 302...can get them dirt cheap, will be fine for the weight of the car, can get in carby or EFI configuration, relatively small engine, myriad of aftermarket parts available.

The E in RB30E stands for electronic fuel injection.

Ahhhh ok, thanks heaps. something to consider :thumbsup:

How much r we talking about?? or i had a suggestion for a LS1 and putting a manualised turbo behind it to get decent power to weight ratio?

any v8 conversion will cost a bit of money in fabrication (engine mounts, gearbox mount, custom tail shaft if needed) but will give you good results for a burnout car. a LS1 would be good since they are a light motor (lighter than the stock RB), and they are relatively cheap these days. hardly different though.

if you want to be different, try to squeeze a turbo 'BARRA' 6 engine (xr6 turbo engine) in there. might be a bit of a squeeze and will put a touch more weight over the front end, but they have a buttload of torque, are easy to make good power out of, and it will be pretty much one of a kind. just might not fit in with the v8 bogans at summernats as well as a v8 would though.

im putting a 357 in it .. getting quotes n shiz as we speak :rolleyes:

Cleveland, Windsor, SBC or Mopar?

I doubt a cleveland will fit without chopping the strut towers out, sames goes with a 351 windsor.

either way, big engine + little engine bay means epic overheat before 3mins is up.

Ever notice that all the engines that go pop due to overheating in burnout comps are those in little cars, eg toranas, cortinas, Rx4s etc

cleveland.

I'm not going short with this car. The engine for what i want will cost at least $40,000 if not more.

Plus the diff and tailshaft im getting will definately be able to handle the h/p that comes out of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This car has run before on this z32 ecu can get the part number for you, I have tried with no AFM it didn’t change anything, I compression tested today 140-150 across all 6 cylinders, also set fuel pressure to 43psi. The only weird thing was cylinder 1 plug was black and fouled other 5 cylinders were just wet with fuel. Spun cas by hand and confirmed injectors are clicking 
    • Since you came here to ask for help, have you thought about answering our questions, that might help us lead you to why it was skipping, or have you given up on getting advice?
    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
×
×
  • Create New...