Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

from what i understand japan has the same "premium unleaded" fuels, or at least similar ones to us, but the 100 ron is called "super unleaded". maybe some of the members on here who have been to japan, or live there could fill us in on a bit more info.....

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm getting around 350kms a full tank, somethings not right.

that all depends. how many litres are you calling a full tank? what sort of driving are you doing? do you let the car warm up before driving? how long does the temp gauge come up to the middle of the gauge (normal operating temp)?

that all depends. how many litres are you calling a full tank? what sort of driving are you doing? do you let the car warm up before driving? how long does the temp gauge come up to the middle of the gauge (normal operating temp)?

Not sure but $60 is roughly a full tank of 98, thats from almost redline empty to completely full. City driving to and from work, generally a 20km trip but it can be stop start traffic. I generally dont let it warm up for more than 30 seconds every startup but nor do i hammer it at all in the first 10 minutes. Doesn't take the temp gauge long at all maybe 5 minutes if that. My best mate who drives a S2 R33 N/A gets easily over 100km more a tank than me and he drives a bit quicker than me.

Not sure but $60 is roughly a full tank of 98, thats from almost redline empty to completely full. City driving to and from work, generally a 20km trip but it can be stop start traffic. I generally dont let it warm up for more than 30 seconds every startup but nor do i hammer it at all in the first 10 minutes. Doesn't take the temp gauge long at all maybe 5 minutes if that. My best mate who drives a S2 R33 N/A gets easily over 100km more a tank than me and he drives a bit quicker than me.

based off roughly $1.45 a litre, $60 is only about 41L, meaning you still have about 24L left in the tank (if they are like a 33 with a 65L tank), and about 10 to 15L before the fuel light comes on. at 41L and 350kms you are using approx 11.7L/100kms, which isn't too bad for city driving.

Hey,

I have a 33 gtst, i get bout 11 -12L/ 100km's

You'll use more fuel depending on how many cold starts you do too, and if it was a gtst and now gts, then you should be able to run alot more ignition timing, like fully advanced, that would help it alot, be much more lively and better on fuel, correct me if im wrong...j

but 10-12 would be the best you can get id say, and thats not that bad...

what would be wrong with that, if its the car is designed to have a turbo on it, and now it doesnt, cant it handle major advancing ???

how would that be worse than 10psi of turbo pressure thru it?? the motor is basically lacking now isnt it???

i advanced my ignition fully with the turbo and didnt even ping that i could hear, not that im saying to do that with a turbo, just saying without the turbo should be able to tune it alot more agressively..

:wacko:

yes you could run full advanced timing on a RB25DET with the turbo removed, however it will still be putting out about 40hp less than a natro motor and use more fuel as you will have to floor it everywhere to not get overtaken by an 80 year old lady in her 1970's corolla

also if you were able to run full advance on your natro without hearing any pinging then either you need to learn more about what pinging sounds like, or realise that not all pinging is audible to the human ear over the sound of the engine.

based off roughly $1.45 a litre, $60 is only about 41L, meaning you still have about 24L left in the tank (if they are like a 33 with a 65L tank), and about 10 to 15L before the fuel light comes on. at 41L and 350kms you are using approx 11.7L/100kms, which isn't too bad for city driving.

Oh you're good.... I don't have a fuel light :(

yes they all have a fuel light. it may be blown though (or there is a short in the system or issue with the sender). but they generally all come on with about 10L left in the tank, so if you are filling up with less than around 55L then you aren't getting the tank low enough for the light to come on. there are a few ways to test if the light is working. 1 is to pull the return line off the injector rail and run it into a bucket then run the car until it either runs out of fuel or the light comes on (best to do when the car is low on fuel). another would be to pull the fuel gauge sender out of the tank. yet another would be to figure out which wire in the fuel sender wiring is the one that sends the signal to the dash and short it out and see if the light comes on. or you could simply drive around with a few litres of fuel in a jerry can and just keep driving until either the light comes on or you run out of fuel.

i also have a feeling that in the 33's it doesn't come on until below the line. i don't think mine came on until it was at the top of the E

Change your spark plugs, run 95 at least, change your o2 sensor and get a pod filter which will help. Clean your AFM and maybe clean your injectors. If nothing changes i highly suggest get a SAFC it will get you extra power and much better fuel economy. I used to get 250ks a tank i got a SAFC and a tune and i got more power and was average 450-500ks a tank.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...