Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you have a 20k budget why on earth would you even entertain the idea of using an rb25 head.

The RB25 (non NEO) head is very understated. Bigger ports than a 26, has VCT. The only thing that lets it down would be the hydraulic lifters if you are planning on revving it past 8500rpm.

As a sort of aside, everyone says that Rb30's are a cheaper option, since stroker kits are up around the 6-7K mark. However, they all come with a set of forged rods, pistons, crank etc. By the time you get forged pistons and rods for your rb30 build wouldn't it be costing up around that mark anyway?

hmmm all valid points, and yeah the whole thing about RB cranks is right, I think that Nitto thing may end up being the way I go with an RB26 head, those stroker kits are nuts with a 12k rpm limiter, and means I can run a retardedly oversized turbo haha

and yeah the length is basically why it loses harmonic stability, also any buildup on certain counterweights are going to have a big issue in harmonics as well

lots of factors but yeah i heard about those nitto kits the other day and was just :yucky: YEEEEEEAHHHHHHHHHH

20K... Why would you bother staying with an RB engine?

LS2 plus twin turbos...

/Thread.

because i'm not like every arsehole in my arsehole home town and go and throw V8's in anything that moves because "v8's are hectic" i'd prefer something original and more JDM (sorry big purist)

as said, its a 31. 31s live for slapper 30s with cast pistons and 25+psi boost

whats so arseholeish about a v8 31? more power and torque everywhere is a bad thing now is it? twin turbo ls2 skyline would be awesome

because i'm not like every arsehole in my arsehole home town and go and throw V8's in anything that moves because "v8's are hectic" i'd prefer something original and more JDM (sorry big purist)

so your saying GT autosounds ls1 r34 isnt hectik?

but in this case slapper 25/30 would be more cost effective or a rb20, both goes well with 25psi!

as said, its a 31. 31s live for slapper 30s with cast pistons and 25+psi boost

whats so arseholeish about a v8 31? more power and torque everywhere is a bad thing now is it? twin turbo ls2 skyline would be awesome

Twin turbo LS2 Skyline IS awesome, I can tell you from experience.*

*I had a dream lastnight.

No.

Put it this way. For $7500 you get a fully assembled balanced/blueprinted RB30 forged bottom end built by RIPS rated at 1300hp and 9000rpm.

That's awesome! Why don't people who want to modify their engines just save up and put these in? I mean that's pretty cheap, why bother going down a more expensive path?

Because they're dirty forklift engines that don't rev.:rolleyes:

yeah, that confrimed my suspisions, rb30 is a much better option than a normal stroker.

Now, a stroked RB30... wasn't someone trying to make a RB34 kit somewhere?

That's awesome! Why don't people who want to modify their engines just save up and put these in? I mean that's pretty cheap, why bother going down a more expensive path?

Because people are stupid and think they can do it for cheaper, reality is there is a reasonable chance the builder you pick will stuff it up.

so your saying GT autosounds ls1 r34 isnt hectik?

but in this case slapper 25/30 would be more cost effective or a rb20, both goes well with 25psi!

gt autosounds ls1 r34 is one of the meanest things to grace our tracks. it does not make traction anywhere. and the funny thing is... weigh and rb30 bottom end and weigh an ls1 bottom end. and no, the bottom end in the ls1 isnt weak.

im an rb fan yes. hell i have poored over 12 grand into the lastest engine in the 33 track car and its still no where near complete. but i do think often that im pooring money into an old heavy engine and i could of spent it better taking other avenues. next time ill go a blown ls2 lol. if the missus doesnt cut my nuts off for pooring every cent i earn into cars lol

Because they're dirty forklift engines that don't rev.:rolleyes:

yeah, that confrimed my suspisions, rb30 is a much better option than a normal stroker.

Now, a stroked RB30... wasn't someone trying to make a RB34 kit somewhere?

Spool have made a RB34 kit. Think that was only 6k

That's awesome! Why don't people who want to modify their engines just save up and put these in? I mean that's pretty cheap, why bother going down a more expensive path?

Yep it is a fantastic option and in reality way overkill for most applications.

If my engine ever pops and I decide I want to do a RB30 i'll just get one of RIPS cheaper kits ($3000ish) and slap my head onto it.

Because people are stupid and think they can do it for cheaper, reality is there is a reasonable chance the builder you pick will stuff it up.

Couldn't have said it better myself.

20k isnt that much for a build from scratch including tuning.

if he is going 3.2 would need another 7-10k for a head to utilise the bottom end,

decent turbo kit is going to take up 5k of it?

fuel system?

or is the 20k just for a long engine?

saves around 5k by not stroking it, std 26 or 30.

but if its to run a big turbo on a dyno it wont need extra capacity

Edited by jangles
  • 2 weeks later...

tbh the Spool kit is something I'd steer clear of, most of the kits I've seen use I-beams but they use H-beams, and there was a fair bit of clearancing at the bottom of the combustion chamber. I did look into those RIPS motors..

and lol i didn't actually say money is no object, the budget is $20k for a running, driveable car (though massive power and driveable on street rarely go in the same sentence tbh)

i thought about the RIPS, it revs to 9K, I could get a Nitto stroker kit with an RB30 block for the same rated at 1600hp and 12k rpm max though?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...