Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking at purchasing a Kaaz LSD because they are at pretty good prices currently and I need to get more power to the ground (my stock LSD is single legging it all the time now)

I understand the theory of the differences between how the 1.5 and 2 way configurations work but what does this mean in practise?

My car will only be used on the street (not daily) and track days (grip) and I want to make sure I get the right LSD

Some say 2 way is the only way to go...

Others have told me that 2 way is not good for the street (especially in the wet) and that they induce a heap of under steer and you have to completely change your driving style on the track.

Some experienced (weekend) track racers I have spoken to have gone from 2 way back to 1.5 way...

What are your thoughts and experiences guys? 1.5 or 2 way?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/
Share on other sites

2 way - locked under deaccell

1.5 way - partially locked under deaccel

So 2-way & having the rear wheels turn equally going into a corner with it locked up generally will induce understeer.

Once you get over that, it will snap/insta oversteer

I have a 2-way mech locker in my GTS-R... It's kicked the ass out going DOWNHILL in the went when under braking. It's not cool when the rear end is @ 45 degrees downhill.

If you aren't drifting etc, IMO 1.5

2 way is fun if you know how to use em, but very demanding.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5673533
Share on other sites

even if the car is occasionally drifted, but also circuit and street driven, i would still go 1.5

personally i would only go a 2 way for a dedicated drift car (or if 1 came up real cheap;))

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5673568
Share on other sites

+1 for the 1.5way LSD option - DriftPig or not

My Cusco MZ 1.5 in my 34 sedan performs like you would not believe, although the whole rear end has been set up to accomodate this agressive diff.

2 way I think you would cringe each and every time you full lock at low speed, not to mention how much damage it would do to your OEM bushings LOL!

To offset my agressive diff I had to rip out the subframe, install new cradle bushings, solid diff mounts and the driftworks hicas removal kit, now she is very happy, the odd

pink and clunk at full lock low from the cradle/diff, but she puts down very solid and is sooo predictable, beware of the rain haha it is like driving on the ice!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5674030
Share on other sites

Go the 1.5!!!!

Mate had a 2way tomei tech trax in his car, to crazy for street.

Now has a 1.5way and loves it, so much more street friendly and driveable. Still kicks tail out at will if throttle prodded lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5674081
Share on other sites

That's cause you drive like a pussy Nick? :) hahaha

Either way though, he has a choice - so get a 1.5

His car sounds relatively stock, he isnt aiming for drifting, so perhaps a not as experienced either... Logical choice really.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5674702
Share on other sites

I have a 2-way but only because TRD diffs only come as 2-ways and they're significantly stronger and cheaper than the competition. I had heard horror stories about the 2-way, especially on the street but if you drive normally you don't even know its there.

On the track I have a bit of trouble, I'm still in the habit of releasing the throttle when the car gets a bit out of hand so the rear settles down but with a 2-way it just gets worse! pinch.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5674742
Share on other sites

Re-shimming the stock diff is just an exercise in turd polishing. Anyone that knows anything about diffs will confirm that for you.

Viscous LSDs are not the real deal and even when new do not provide the response or locking capabilities of a mechanical LSD, after 100k+km's and a few laps of Sandown the stocker is 100% useless!

The car is currently fairly stock (195rwkw) but won't be staying like that for long... unlike most I am taking the sensible approach and doing the cooling, clutch, diff, brakes and suspension before gunning for more kw. I have a Nistune Z32 ECU and AFM waiting to be installed and are currently looking at turbo and injector upgrades.

I have a bit a track experience with this car and my biggest frustration is not being able to get the power to the ground through my single-legging diff!

Even then I am still smoking M3's, Lotus Elise etc as well as many professionally prep'ed race cars !

I do appreciate all your comments and discussion guys - keep 'em coming!

Edited by Checkbuzz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5675235
Share on other sites

That's cause you drive like a pussy Nick? :) hahaha

nah not my driving... that shit only happens in old shoeboxes, not state of the art 33's :whistling: lol

I like it when the rear locks a bit when you jump off the throttle, helps to get the nose turned in... lift off oversteer is good... when you go in too hot with that heavy RB in the nose it will want to push wide, jump off the gas with a 2 way and it will slide the ass a little and help you kill the understeer... then jump back on the gas and hold the rear out a fraction as you power out :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5675266
Share on other sites

dear god you guys are being overly dramatic... I had a Cusco 2 way in my daily driven GTSt and it was fine... never did anything like what happened to Ash

+1

Nismo GT 2way lsd in my Gts-t was daily drive and no issue even in the wet. My old man even drove it alot with no issue

Also Car is alot more easier to control on the track i prefer 2way, even for gripping

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5675579
Share on other sites

I went for the Nismo Pro GT TT 1.5 way from Hi Octane Racing.

Cost was $1620.

Love the predictability after the stock Viscous with 300 rwkw +.

Single spun so hard once almost flipped it.

I can't say from experience but the Nismo is supposed to be the smoothest of them all plus it has initial torque adjustability. Low, Med, High . Factory setting is medium.

Medium was too tight for me, so I had it adjusted down to low.

No difference in immediate lock, just comfortably looser on cornering.

Plus, adding life to the diff.

As it loosens in time, just have it set up a level to restore tightness.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5675645
Share on other sites

Re-shimming the stock diff is just an exercise in turd polishing. Anyone that knows anything about diffs will confirm that for you.

You actually couldn't be more wrong.

Longnose R200 in a HR31 is a 2-way mech locker, just very loose.

Few places and shims later, it's exactly the same as the Nismo item, or better if you customise it up a bit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5675682
Share on other sites

what ever happened to the old skool diff description???? where you had a 50,60,70% lockup diff???? now its all 1, 1.5 or 2 way......... what do they equate to in percentages???

i remember the best was always a 70% lsd, perfect for street and perfect for a bit of track.

also ive been driving with a 2way in both a NA r34 and a rb26 r34, same car just engine replaced, the NA was easier to drive with a 2way cause it had easier torque down low to pull it out of very slow u turn corners, the rb26 with its giant turbo has absolutely no guts below 4.5k rpm, so makes it a bit harder. but on the road ive never had any lockup in the rear when going downhill in the wet, only in the stock 1way one when i had bold as f*k tyres and i shifted down hitting 4k-rpm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5676024
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...