Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an RB Gates Timing belt here, still in it's original packaging for sale. Bought it earlier in the year, selling this as I've grabbed a nismo belt instead. These typically retail for $100+, I'm offering $80 .. kinda looks like:

gatesbelt.jpg

Hi guys I have a few spare parts lying around the shed that I no longer require. Please have a look through the list and pm or text me if you are interested in any of the parts.

1) R32 pineapples (mint condition) - $40post-57119-0-83698700-1315315674_thumb.jpg

2) SR20 (5 bolt) 3.5 inch dump pipe - $20post-57119-0-17331700-1315315696_thumb.jpg

3) RB gearbox crossmember - $20post-57119-0-76354400-1315315725_thumb.jpg

4) RB gearbox mount - $20post-57119-0-66493900-1315315743_thumb.jpg

5) RB25 power stearing reservoir - $30post-57119-0-88538300-1315315759_thumb.jpg

6) RB25DET standard ecu - $30post-57119-0-18837400-1315315779_thumb.jpg

7) SOLD

8) RB20 starter motor - $20post-57119-0-21616200-1315315799_thumb.jpg

9) RB25 standard flywheel - $20post-57119-0-36117700-1315315820_thumb.jpg

10) Aftermarket Fuel Pressure Regulator kit (brand new) - $50post-57119-0-40200800-1315315853_thumb.jpg

11) Pod filter (freshly cleaned, unsure of brand) - $15post-57119-0-31043800-1315315872_thumb.jpg

12) SOLD

13) RB25 standard conrods, bearings & gugeon pins (take the lot) - $50post-57119-0-22746500-1315315896_thumb.jpg

Pm or text me if interested

0400 259 598

Chris

For sale,

OEM Lexus 2008 RX350 18" Wheels and Tyres + center caps

Will fit cars like Toyota Kluger, Toyota Rav4, Prados, Lexus GS/RX/SC series.

Probably fit skylines, soarers, but you'll have to double check that.

Rim size : 18x7.5 +35 114.3PCD

Tyres : Maxxis 235/55r18

Condition : Very good, some very minor gutter rash. Heaps of tread left (will probably last another 18 months or so).

Price : $700.

Available after this saturday morning (getting new rims).

IMG_5887.jpg

Fs

Almost complete 180 worth of parts except engine gearbox and front seats.

I have almost everything

Interior bits are mint !!

have front and rear crossmemebrs with everything on them

bonnet and hatch

tail lights

Shell has front end damage up to about struts is repariable but bare (can come as a rear cut perfect for someone who want to fix there rear end damege can also do roof cut iff u want it for sunroof hole)

Doors ones black with killa paint ones matt black have glass and motor in them

$$ All these 180 bits need to go send me some offer on what u need im desperate for cash to spend on my 32

I also am wrecking out a r3 4 door gts-4

The car has damge to roof and abc pillars on drivers side

is missing motor box front brakes guards and bonnet

has 32 gtr rear brakes and all that jazz

After resonable offer here.

Also have r32 4 door bn sideskirts and rear bar brand new !

r32 rear seat slight fade on top.

vn calais rear leather seat minta

stainless rb manifold

Contact me through pm The 180 parts i need gorne asap !

post-77561-0-19319700-1315377232_thumb.jpg

post-77561-0-17700800-1315377309_thumb.jpg

post-77561-0-32684100-1315378163_thumb.jpg

Edited by Ke55pig

i have a r31 for sale, currently in bits, but have everything to put back together......in primer but engine bay is painted a dark metallic blue, paint included. no engine or trans. has TI rims on it too.

$600 ono

please pm me here if interested

Thanks

Cara

Got some offset subframe bushes for sale atm. They are CNC made to a snug fit to replace your old worn rubber bushes. They are offset so you can fit a S14/15/R33/R34 rear subframe into your S13/R32/A31 etc. Locally made and high quality items.. comes with washers also.

$180 + $5 postage anywhere in Aust.

Pm me if keen.

317595_2238648399088_1034359196_2522178_950579203_n.jpg

R34 gtr power fc with hand controller $775

Os giken cam gears suit rb $320

Tomei type b 260 9.15mm cams suit 34gtr $550

Apexi weldina exhaust (oval type) suit 34gtr $1100

Rays ce28n 19x10.5+12 x4 with rubber $3900

R34 gtr power fc with hand controller $775

Os giken cam gears suit rb $320

Tomei type b 260 9.15mm cams suit 34gtr $550

Apexi weldina exhaust (oval type) suit 34gtr $1100

Rays ce28n 19x10.5+12 x4 with rubber $3900

Wheels and exhaust sold

Pfc $750 picked up by this week or will take up

A posted offer.

Cam gears are mint and the better of the designs (some threads ware out.

And cams get ur gtr idle sounding mad, and give great mid range torque :)

hey guys, I have a couple of sets of blast pipes lying around, kinda keen to get rid of them.

All pipes are single 3" inlet - Twin 3" exit, mild steel, never been used. Can be cut to length if required.

500mm Straight pipes - $125

IMG_0360.jpg

IMG_0359.jpg

300mm Shorty Blast pipes - $110

IMG_0363.jpg

400mm Offset/Staggered drift pipes - $115

IMG_0357.jpg

All pipes can be posted anywhere in aus for under $25.

Pm me, or call me on 0423 11 10 11

Offers welcome!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...