Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Brand New Stainless Steel DRIFT PIPES

Up for sale is my stainless steel drift pipes, they are universal and have no flanges on it, i was going to put this on my 33 but decided not to so therefore i am selling them, im unsure of what brand they are well fabricated and i cant pick a fault within the welding, im looking for around $220 ono, 3 inch outlet with 3 inch pipes!!!

Contact me on 0402930153

Bunch o' goodies for sale - get in quick for bargains!

Bride Zeta III + Rail / Erg 4 Point Harness / Yokohama Advan Semi Slicks A050 18 Inch / Ecliptech Shift Light / Ruzic Controller / Sparco Removable Steering Boss / R32 Gtr Front Seats

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/403156-bride-zeta-iii-rail-erg-4-point-harness-a050-18-inch-shift-light-ruzic-controller-sparco-removable-steering-boss-r32-gtr-front-seats/page__view__findpost__p__6411551

I have an adjustable 24mm whiteline front swaybar up for sale, used for roughly 6 months, no longer needed as car has gone back to standard.

It is to suit R32 Gts-t, Pics can be arranged.

Asking $220 $200, payed around $280 for it new, whiteline list them on there site for $299 currently. Grab a bargain!!!

0407 633 573.

For Sale:

180sx tail lights $80ono

180sx bonnet latch $30ono

180sx bonnet hindges $30ono

180sx SR20det compressor housing outlet pipe $30

180sx Glass Headlights with H4 globes $50ono

180sx centre air vents $20ono

180sx A/C controls $40ono

180sx SR20det fuel pump $40ono

180sx SR20det oil cap $10ono

I'm not sure what these parts are worth exactly so i'm putting these prices with "Or Nearest Offer"

Pics can be seen at this link

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150190043393592.323992.642283591&type=1#!/media/set/?set=a.10150190043393592.323992.642283591&type=1

Contact me via PM or txt me on 0433 522 234

Located South of Adelaide.

For Sale

Set of work XT7s 18 x 9.5 +30

BEautiful condition, like new! Only on car for less then 5 months. dont look like 2nd hand wheels!!

Tyres are easily 90% and are 245 40 18s

will suit Mitsubishi and nissan + others 5x114.3

Pics dont do these justice!! Happy for test fits etc

$1850 without centre caps or $1970 with centre caps

post-33454-0-70717200-1340585995_thumb.jpg

tems:

12" 2011 Cadence Sub+Amp and wiring kit.

Item Condition:

Used for about a month in my old daily. Been sitting in my room for the last year. Need it gone.

Contact Details:

PM

Price and price conditions:

Looking for cash sale open to offers. Need it gone. Located down south.

Got my R33 S2 front bar up for sale, Has the bottom lip and comes with indicator/fog lights. Has 1 crack on the bottom lip and there is some visible silicone the body repairer used to hold the lip on but its not too noticeable (see pics). Paint is good, the car is filthy in the pics.

$350ono

0425151620

post-54283-0-15002800-1340678782_thumb.jpg

post-54283-0-49559700-1340678788_thumb.jpg

post-54283-0-19376700-1340678795_thumb.jpg

post-54283-0-26460400-1340678802_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...