Jump to content
SAU Community

Brake Engineer's In Melb

Daz

By Daz,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

^ no, he's not...

i'd contact Access Auto as they had the BSC (or whatever they were called) brake guys right next door - they have some in-house developed brakes on their Evo X from memory, they'll definitely be able to point you in the right direction as well.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Race Brakes like many professional places will generally turn away business if they think what you are asking them to do is not in line with their usual practice. Sometimes this is related to the brands of parts you want to use, or the cheap/perhaps less safe option you are trying to chase. But if you pay his proces and go with their kits and listen to their advice then people dont generally get upset. :)

But regarding dollars. Consider this.... labour to remove wheels, measure up hub, tie rod end, wheel clearances etc and then use the combination of rotor and caliper you are handing over. Then they will make up a dummy piece, trial fit then mod to suit or make the matching hat and mount. So on top of the hours of machining and trial fitting throw about $150 in material for the mount, and depending on the rotor size you can add about another $250 in material for the hats. (assuming you dont have to buy minimum quantities for your order and you are buying in bulk)

You can see why they charge about $450-550 for mounts...some places $650 a pair. And around ~$800-1000 for the hats a pair.

Also consider the mounting hardware to bolt the custom hat to the rotor is about $80-100. The high tensile fasteners for mounting radial mount to hub, then caliper to mount is about another $80-100. Then you need brake lines so say $250.

The only time it can be done a bit cheaper if you can provide drawings that are exact or at least a close first go so that they can mock up a dummy piece quickly and save them time consuming measurements and test fitting. My drawing for the mounts for my Stoptechs using 343mm rotors was about 6mm out in one plane but spot on for the other. Seems the Stoptechs are a little to Brembos and my new rotors a little different in hat height from the last rotors i used..so just waiting for them to get machined up now. Because i did a lot of work myself it worked out cheaper then an off the shelf kit

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

Race Brakes like many professional places will generally turn away business if they think what you are asking them to do is not in line with their usual practice. Sometimes this is related to the brands of parts you want to use, or the cheap/perhaps less safe option you are trying to chase. But if you pay his proces and go with their kits and listen to their advice then people dont generally get upset. :)

But regarding dollars. Consider this.... labour to remove wheels, measure up hub, tie rod end, wheel clearances etc and then use the combination of rotor and caliper you are handing over. Then they will make up a dummy piece, trial fit then mod to suit or make the matching hat and mount. So on top of the hours of machining and trial fitting throw about $150 in material for the mount, and depending on the rotor size you can add about another $250 in material for the hats. (assuming you dont have to buy minimum quantities for your order and you are buying in bulk)

You can see why they charge about $450-550 for mounts...some places $650 a pair. And around ~$800-1000 for the hats a pair.

Also consider the mounting hardware to bolt the custom hat to the rotor is about $80-100. The high tensile fasteners for mounting radial mount to hub, then caliper to mount is about another $80-100. Then you need brake lines so say $250.

The only time it can be done a bit cheaper if you can provide drawings that are exact or at least a close first go so that they can mock up a dummy piece quickly and save them time consuming measurements and test fitting. My drawing for the mounts for my Stoptechs using 343mm rotors was about 6mm out in one plane but spot on for the other. Seems the Stoptechs are a little to Brembos and my new rotors a little different in hat height from the last rotors i used..so just waiting for them to get machined up now. Because i did a lot of work myself it worked out cheaper then an off the shelf kit

Roy,

I am doing soemthng a bit similar. Have some drawings of what I need. Did you get Race Brakes to machine the adaptors or somewhere else? PM if you like.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...