Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^ no, he's not...

i'd contact Access Auto as they had the BSC (or whatever they were called) brake guys right next door - they have some in-house developed brakes on their Evo X from memory, they'll definitely be able to point you in the right direction as well.

Race Brakes like many professional places will generally turn away business if they think what you are asking them to do is not in line with their usual practice. Sometimes this is related to the brands of parts you want to use, or the cheap/perhaps less safe option you are trying to chase. But if you pay his proces and go with their kits and listen to their advice then people dont generally get upset. :)

But regarding dollars. Consider this.... labour to remove wheels, measure up hub, tie rod end, wheel clearances etc and then use the combination of rotor and caliper you are handing over. Then they will make up a dummy piece, trial fit then mod to suit or make the matching hat and mount. So on top of the hours of machining and trial fitting throw about $150 in material for the mount, and depending on the rotor size you can add about another $250 in material for the hats. (assuming you dont have to buy minimum quantities for your order and you are buying in bulk)

You can see why they charge about $450-550 for mounts...some places $650 a pair. And around ~$800-1000 for the hats a pair.

Also consider the mounting hardware to bolt the custom hat to the rotor is about $80-100. The high tensile fasteners for mounting radial mount to hub, then caliper to mount is about another $80-100. Then you need brake lines so say $250.

The only time it can be done a bit cheaper if you can provide drawings that are exact or at least a close first go so that they can mock up a dummy piece quickly and save them time consuming measurements and test fitting. My drawing for the mounts for my Stoptechs using 343mm rotors was about 6mm out in one plane but spot on for the other. Seems the Stoptechs are a little to Brembos and my new rotors a little different in hat height from the last rotors i used..so just waiting for them to get machined up now. Because i did a lot of work myself it worked out cheaper then an off the shelf kit

Race Brakes like many professional places will generally turn away business if they think what you are asking them to do is not in line with their usual practice. Sometimes this is related to the brands of parts you want to use, or the cheap/perhaps less safe option you are trying to chase. But if you pay his proces and go with their kits and listen to their advice then people dont generally get upset. :)

But regarding dollars. Consider this.... labour to remove wheels, measure up hub, tie rod end, wheel clearances etc and then use the combination of rotor and caliper you are handing over. Then they will make up a dummy piece, trial fit then mod to suit or make the matching hat and mount. So on top of the hours of machining and trial fitting throw about $150 in material for the mount, and depending on the rotor size you can add about another $250 in material for the hats. (assuming you dont have to buy minimum quantities for your order and you are buying in bulk)

You can see why they charge about $450-550 for mounts...some places $650 a pair. And around ~$800-1000 for the hats a pair.

Also consider the mounting hardware to bolt the custom hat to the rotor is about $80-100. The high tensile fasteners for mounting radial mount to hub, then caliper to mount is about another $80-100. Then you need brake lines so say $250.

The only time it can be done a bit cheaper if you can provide drawings that are exact or at least a close first go so that they can mock up a dummy piece quickly and save them time consuming measurements and test fitting. My drawing for the mounts for my Stoptechs using 343mm rotors was about 6mm out in one plane but spot on for the other. Seems the Stoptechs are a little to Brembos and my new rotors a little different in hat height from the last rotors i used..so just waiting for them to get machined up now. Because i did a lot of work myself it worked out cheaper then an off the shelf kit

Roy,

I am doing soemthng a bit similar. Have some drawings of what I need. Did you get Race Brakes to machine the adaptors or somewhere else? PM if you like.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...