Jump to content
SAU Community

Will 255/40/r17 Fit R33 Gts-T?

Trozzle
 Share

Recommended Posts

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
Posted

I couldn't find a relevant thread to bump with this question....just picked up some 2nd hand tyres for my s1 R33 GTS-T which I thought were 245 wide, but it now seems they're 255 wide. Will these tyres clear the guards if they're on 9" R33 GT-R rims?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355291-will-25540r17-fit-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites
zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

What? My car is running 255/40/17 on the back I never had any issues(I'm not sittng too low though). Now I'm running stretched 245/45/17 and they fit so nicely.

i had them on the rear was fine, dont know about the front though

What offset?

33 GTR rims are 9" wide +30 so fairly agressive on a GTST

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted (edited)

it wont work and if it does it'll look weird, you could stick a 235 on, but then it would look odd as well unless you had 235 rears to match which i think is your best bet. it will look a bit stretched but stretch is cool..

profiles need to match, meaning if you wont a wider rear tyre you need a wider rim, you cant have a 9 inch rims all round with different size tyres, well you can but it looks crap..A 255 will be too much tyre for the front..

but stick to 235s all round and it will look cool as long as its low, as an added bonus the tyres are cheaper as well :thumbsup:

Edited by Arthur T3
Husky33 Veteran

Husky33

Posted
Posted

I have 245's on the front of my 33, they sit on +22 9 inch rims.

I had to roll the guards, and on hard turning it rubbed splash guards, but i modified them to suit.

I think i'd be able to fit 255's on and get away with it, but your problem is the gtr wheels will sit further in than mine, so you might have alot of trouble with the splash guard and even rubbing on the suspension.

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Looking inside my front guards, doesn't look like I have any of the plastic bits. If it looks a little weird, that doesn't bother me either. I got the tyres cheap ($650 for the set, PLENTY of tread) but like I said, for some reason I thought they were 245 which would have been a lot easier to do.

Scrubbing on full lock won't be the end of the world, as you see above I never hit full lock. I do this on purpose, so I'm not just saying I don't even NEED to. I just don't do it.

Rolling guards, while undesirable, isn't the end of the world either.

I currently have 235 ever so slightly stretched onto the rims, looks decent as the sidewalls are pretty much vertical. Although again like I said, aesthetics of the tyre don't bother me.

Cheers for the input guys, appreciated!

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

Up front I'm running 235's.

I'm not sure on the offset but up front I do need a spacer. Plenty of clearance in the back. The front wheels scrub my castor rods and the plastic shit in the wheel arch but they don't come near my quaters.

  • 3 weeks later...
Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Alrighty, tyres are on the car. On full lock, the inside of the tyre contacts something...have only tested once right after I picked the car up, but haven't bothered checking with the car stationary - not a major concern.

I haven't noticed the outside edge hitting the guard lip on suspension compression though...not to say that it can't, but it might just be that it either cambers inwards appropriately to clear or that my coilovers don't let it compress that far without hitting something significant

So far so good, 255/40/r17 aren't posing an issue on 17x9" +30 rims

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...