Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I guess you guys dont know the meaning of R&D development, have a read into true morotsport not your joe blow workshops, how much it costs when it comes to development work and the hours spent in perfecting a job. Find me one person out there that has made a manifold in this manner!!!! Not even the jap's come near it. I know i have alot on my shoulders in proving all this is going to work, i know it will as alot of calculation has gone into the build.

Soon ill have some more pics of the finished Dump pipe and the earls fitting for the surge tank and dry sump tank

  • Like 1

I'm familiar with the costs of R&D, but am to embarised to say what ive spent on my engine projects! $10K .. :whistling:

Thumbs up for having the courage to have a go at pushing the limits a little further. In many peoples eyes its hard to justify costs and effort required to develop something new in case it doesnt work out. But I think the journey of the R&D process is seriously as much fun as the end result of getting to drive the car.

If you have the spare cash, the capabilities and backup engineering support to try something new, I highly recommend giving it a go. I can't express how satisfying it is to get behind the wheel and drive my car knowing that its being powered by an engine of my own design, which is probably unique in the world.

I guess you guys dont know the meaning of R&D development, have a read into true morotsport not your joe blow workshops, how much it costs when it comes to development work and the hours spent in perfecting a job. Find me one person out there that has made a manifold in this manner!!!! Not even the jap's come near it. I know i have alot on my shoulders in proving all this is going to work, i know it will as alot of calculation has gone into the build.

Soon ill have some more pics of the finished Dump pipe and the earls fitting for the surge tank and dry sump tank

"R&D development" = research and development development? haha

What we are trying to say that for a 10th of the price you could have got basically exactly the same result!

"R&D development" = research and development development? haha

What we are trying to say that for a 10th of the price you could have got basically exactly the same result!

Since you seem to have all the answers please tell me what manifold you think is worth using and what testing you have done?

I'm familiar with the costs of R&D, but am to embarised to say what ive spent on my engine projects! $10K .. :whistling:

Thumbs up for having the courage to have a go at pushing the limits a little further. In many peoples eyes its hard to justify costs and effort required to develop something new in case it doesnt work out. But I think the journey of the R&D process is seriously as much fun as the end result of getting to drive the car.

If you have the spare cash, the capabilities and backup engineering support to try something new, I highly recommend giving it a go. I can't express how satisfying it is to get behind the wheel and drive my car knowing that its being powered by an engine of my own design, which is probably unique in the world.

Yes R&D is expensive however by the time i started investigating and get it right would cost a mint, this is why i have John Skola as he has the answers for everything he is building.

I remember when i dropped off the N1 motor to his workshop and when he stripped it down and saw the cylinder head design and laughed, he said this is a very old head design going back to 1978. I was shocked when he said that. He did say it will need alot of work to make it work right and that was said 4 years ago.

Im amount 2 month away from finishing this build and cant wait to post the results.

  • Like 1

Man I do not want to keep going on about all the $$$ but f**k you would want some out of this world results for the money spent.

In any case it is a good project, would be exciting to see results.

Good to see it coming along mate.

I was actually there when the crate N1 engine was being stripped a few years ago.

Having seen some of john's previous work and knowing what has gone into this engine I'm looking forward to seeing it up and running.

I know there has been countless factory components sacrificed to improve the end result, it may or may not pay off in the end but the workmanship is amazing either way!

He bags this engine saying it's so primative but the Japs have had no trouble getting excellent results from these engines.

Also still can't c this turbo working aswell as u think, it's just to big, but hey prove me wrong.

But if I was going to spend what you have I'd want to make sure it's the fastest/ best car seen in 10 years that blows everyone away other wise if your only making boost say 300-400 rpm earlier then some one else I'd c it as a total waste.

But as I said above prove me wrong

I really can't see there being $10K worth of advantage in that setup.

I dunno its just over complicated IMO.

I've always been one to stick with the basics and make things work from there instead of introducing more and more things that can fail.

I guess its just me thinking of whats going to happen in the future when the car is a couple years old.

I hope it works for you guys though, other wise its gonna be a massive waste of R&D time and dollars.

Since you seem to have all the answers please tell me what manifold you think is worth using and what testing you have done?

Well I would have picked either a 6boost or a Full Race personally...

Testing, well I have personally used a 6boost on 2 different cars and they both worked perfectly!

Can you tell me with your "testing" how this will perform any better than either of those brands?

I'm not knocking it, but I could pick a lot better ways to spend the extra money on a car to make it better than that... but hey, I'm happy to be proven wrong :)

Also forgot to add in my above post, if these results you speak of are so achievable then surely one of these massive jap companies with all there money would have worked this out by now therefore not making what you are trying to achieve new technology?

Well I would have picked either a 6boost or a Full Race personally...

Testing, well I have personally used a 6boost on 2 different cars and they both worked perfectly!

Can you tell me with your "testing" how this will perform any better than either of those brands?

I'm not knocking it, but I could pick a lot better ways to spend the extra money on a car to make it better than that... but hey, I'm happy to be proven wrong :)

Matter a fact i had shown john, Karls 6 boost manifold i told him the price he sells it for and he said thats the best manifold he has seen in a long time so the 6 boost was thumbs up full race john only got to see it on the net, his comment was runners where to big and i think he said number 1 and i think 3 runners were longer then the rest. I took so many manifolds to him hks, greddy he picked faults everywhere, so to top it off 6 boost was best of all, however john wanted to make his own and this is what he has made. I am not out to prove anyone wrong as everything works when you mod it but if you mod it correctly you will have something better. From this if it works we can all benefit from it.

I can detail all the motor spec's and all the little things that are done to the motor.

  • Like 2

Also forgot to add in my above post, if these results you speak of are so achievable then surely one of these massive jap companies with all there money would have worked this out by now therefore not making what you are trying to achieve new technology?

Yes the japs did, they built the z-tune, now you can see im trying to build my own z-tune and the jap's did a great job with the Z-tune lets see what John can do for me.

Give this guy a break. He is just looking to do things different to everyone else. Look how things have changed over the years. People putting twin cam heads on RD28 diesel blocks, engines reving passed 10000rpm and all these 1000hp+ getting about. All it takes is someone to put there neck on the line to try something different...

Give this guy a break. He is just looking to do things different to everyone else. Look how things have changed over the years. People putting twin cam heads on RD28 diesel blocks, engines reving passed 10000rpm and all these 1000hp+ getting about. All it takes is someone to put there neck on the line to try something different...

Thank you for your comments

Matter a fact i had shown john, Karls 6 boost manifold i told him the price he sells it for and he said thats the best manifold he has seen in a long time so the 6 boost was thumbs up full race john only got to see it on the net, his comment was runners where to big and i think he said number 1 and i think 3 runners were longer then the rest. I took so many manifolds to him hks, greddy he picked faults everywhere, so to top it off 6 boost was best of all, however john wanted to make his own and this is what he has made. I am not out to prove anyone wrong as everything works when you mod it but if you mod it correctly you will have something better. From this if it works we can all benefit from it.

I can detail all the motor spec's and all the little things that are done to the motor.

Fair enough, but saying that if you look hard enough you can pick faults with any design....

Firstly how much does the manifold/collector weigh? I would put it to you any gain made by the manifold would be offset by it's weight compared to a more conventional item.

Another example is where your collector merges the gases for the gates have to escape at a 90 degree angle to the flow. This used to be a issue with early 6boost manifolds that at high rpm the gas takes the least path of resistance and just bypasses the gates altogether creating boost creep all the way through the rev range. To fix this now all 6boost manifolds have a gate provision on a angle to flow the same direction of the exhaust gases. I think yours should be alright though because you are using twin gates but it could cause issues!

My main beef with the collector is where the 3 gate ports merge together. You talk of this as "to achieve the perfect merge and at the same time extract equal quantity of waste gases without causing extensive disruption to the flow." But if you think about the directions of the gas flow two of the extraction paths have to flow around 2 x 90 degree bends and while the other just has to travel a straight path. What's worse to this and in my opinion a huge design flaw is where these 3 gas paths merge... 2 are opposing each (blowing at each other) while the third is trying to push through the middle. This will cause major disruption of flow to all 3 paths and also a uneven balance. If you want a example of a better design look at a standard rb25 low mount cast manifold. It also has two opposing gas flows but internally it has a divider to direct the gases in the same direction before the merge to not cause issues.

Hope that all makes sense :) Maybe you can ask John his opinion on this?!?

Edited by SimonR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...