Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

Below is a nismo manifold showing the installation of the second bank of injectors.

Not many people know that the nismo manifold already has all the hard work done for you, all you need to do is drill the holes where the injectors sit and add a fuel rail its so simple.

post-49633-0-49311700-1327282377_thumb.jpg

post-49633-0-13703400-1327282427_thumb.jpg

Bobby, was there any consideration as to the the angle at which the injectors are facing in the inlets of the plenum? The way they are it is like they will be spraying almost directly onto the opposite side of the runner and not down the runner into the port.

Bobby, was there any consideration as to the the angle at which the injectors are facing in the inlets of the plenum? The way they are it is like they will be spraying almost directly onto the opposite side of the runner and not down the runner into the port.

The angle was already set by the nismo Plenum. Since this is staged injection, activated by boost or rpm, the are speed will be so high that the angle will not make any difference and will never never hit the opposite side of the runner. Higher the air speed the more turbulent.

I have spoken to John about the inlet manifold he had designed, i have to find the paper work for it. I ll be able to get something back to you soon.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...