Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I went to see a reputable performance joint yesterday about installing a HKS 2835 Pro S kit I have got my hands on. I already have a 3" metal intake to the Z32 afm and then pod.

However, the new turbo has a 4" intake and the tuner is strongly recommending I move the afm to the cooler piping and run a 4" intake due to reversion and potential stalling issues arising when transitioning on/off boost. He said this seems to occur frequently with the larger compressor covers.

I want to keep my 3" metal intake and leave the afm in the factory location. Even though the turbo has a 4" intake its not designed for huge power (280rwkw max) and from what I can see all the other guys running this turbo dont run 4" intakes.

Has anyone had this issue? Or is it minor, the extra price of this work is scaring me off changing to this turbo.

just run a 4"-3" reducer, install the kit and be happy :)

That was my original plan, I hadnt even heard of anyone else doing that on this turbo. Do you have experience with this configuration or just everyone else's results?

not a problem even with an atmo bov fitted, but my HKS2835pros has a 3" intake and surge slots

oh wow yours has a 3" intake as well!! Mine has surge slots too but is definitely 4".

Joeyjoe's turbo has a 3" intake as well. I wonder why mine is 4"??

Think about how much air is going through the turbo on idle...... Next to none. 3" pipe will be fine. They supply a 3 inch pipe and reducer for a reason. Never heard of any issues

What size intake does yours have? Yours is the KAI version right?

Put the turbo in and see if you have any dramas before deciding to do the extra work?

We always do the 3076s with 3" hard piping and 3-4" reducer at the turbo and never have any problems. The factory arrangement should provide enough air mass not to disturb the AFM if/when the compressor surges.

Different turbos have different flow characteristics though. I say just give it a shot first then tackle the problem IF it arises.

From memory there are two versions of the GT Pro S compressor housing and both are port shrouded . The main difference is that one has a 100mm inlet snout and the other is 90mm with a separate machined boss fitted .

If you have the 100mm version I'd say the way to go would be a reasonable section of 100mm bore hose to let the PS'd comp housing do its thing then reduce to 80mm to suit the Z32 meter .

If tuning isn't a problem you could consider fitting the element and electronics into a 90mm AFM body making the difference only 10mm . 90mm is 3.543 inches and I reckon at 1mm over 3.5" you could stretch something to fit .

A .

reducer on the turbo will be fine. just make sure theres a bend and as much length as possible between the afm and turbo

I have just finished a custom 3" intake (90 deg bend) with the bov return and breather hose fittings for the current turbo and I do get the issue on my current turbo so I am thinking it might get worse.

Put the turbo in and see if you have any dramas before deciding to do the extra work?

We always do the 3076s with 3" hard piping and 3-4" reducer at the turbo and never have any problems. The factory arrangement should provide enough air mass not to disturb the AFM if/when the compressor surges.

Different turbos have different flow characteristics though. I say just give it a shot first then tackle the problem IF it arises.

Great to hear with your personal experience with the 3076s, thats great info.

That was my third option, 1. keep current turbo, 2. install new turbo and relocate afm, 3. install current turbo with reducer and see how it is

The only cost that I would double up on would be the tuning.

From memory there are two versions of the GT Pro S compressor housing and both are port shrouded . The main difference is that one has a 100mm inlet snout and the other is 90mm with a separate machined boss fitted .

If you have the 100mm version I'd say the way to go would be a reasonable section of 100mm bore hose to let the PS'd comp housing do its thing then reduce to 80mm to suit the Z32 meter .

If tuning isn't a problem you could consider fitting the element and electronics into a 90mm AFM body making the difference only 10mm . 90mm is 3.543 inches and I reckon at 1mm over 3.5" you could stretch something to fit .

A .

Bugger I have just finished a custom 3" 90 degree bend with the bov return and the breather fitting. Ended up being a fair bit of work.

Interesting idea with the larger AFM body. I was trying to stay on the beaten path though :)

Nengun says the two sizes are 80mm and 100mm:

http://www.nengun.com/hks/turbine-gt2835-pro-s

Although I trust you disco more than nengun!

Do you know the reasoning behind the larger intake? It seems funny for a turbo designed for a standard engine to require such modifications.

Mine is the KAI yes and has a 3" inlet on the turbo. Not the 4" like the pro s

The pro s kits come with a 4" to 3" reducer and a 3" hard intake pipe

See thats the thing all the people on here that I have spoken to with the Pro S (joeyjoejoe, 75coupe and others) all have the 3" intake.

Are you sure the Pro S kits came with a 4" to 3" reducer at the turbo? As far as I know the Pro S kits have been discontinued and only the KAI is still made.

Pro s kits came with a 3" to 4" reducer. The one I saw this reducer was black unlike the rest of the hoses which are purple.

They have a 3" hard pipe which is identical to the one supplie with the KAI kit. No need for the reducer with the KAI as it's 3" turbo housing to 3" pipe

Dave I will post the id number up when I get home.

89CAL, that is promising! Although I am just trying to point out that not all Pro S turbos have a 4" intake. There are two versions, 80mm and 100mm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
    • I saw your intro update, are you sure you've actually had a starter motor failure? You mention it could be the alarm causing it. I'm assuming you've got a no start issue, but what are the exact symptoms, as there could be a few reasons it has stopped wanting to start.
×
×
  • Create New...