Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there, bought an R33 GTR a while back but never checked gear changes at high speed. There is a crunch when changing from 4th to 5th above around 130kmh, especially under load. Apparently this is a common problem to check with these cars :( What I'm wondering is- what does this mean for the health of the gearbox? Otherwise it seems fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356949-r33-gtr-gearbox-4th-to-5th-crunch/
Share on other sites

Redline lightweight shockproof gearbox oil.

Get some off Harold from PerformanceHub on eBay.

Mate had exact same problem, the above fixed his.

Not cheap, approx 120ish?? for the oil, but definitely worth it, don't skimp on cheap shit.

Redline lightweight shockproof gearbox oil.

Get some off Harold from PerformanceHub on eBay.

Mate had exact same problem, the above masked his.

Not cheap, approx 120ish?? for the oil, but definitely worth it, don't skimp on cheap shit.

FYP ;)

You'll find just about all boxes will if you try too fast of a gear change. Same with my RB25 box in my 31 and the GTR.

4th to 5th demands you be a little slower I've found for whatever reason. It is the smallest gear too remember.

Doesn't do it if you just give it that half second longer.

Thanks for the feedback guys; hadn't logged on since I posted sorry. Sounds like I should just take it a bit easy on the 4th to 5th- it's not like it doesn't go fast enough in 4th. I'll try and get my hands on some of this high quality gear oil in the mean time. Are you saying that even with the right oil and a lack of abuse it may still crunch a little if changed too fast, in which case there may be nothing wrong?

Thanks for the feedback guys; hadn't logged on since I posted sorry. Sounds like I should just take it a bit easy on the 4th to 5th- it's not like it doesn't go fast enough in 4th. I'll try and get my hands on some of this high quality gear oil in the mean time. Are you saying that even with the right oil and a lack of abuse it may still crunch a little if changed too fast, in which case there may be nothing wrong?

Redline! Do it and report back.

  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry if I'm hijacking the topic. I experience crunching from 3rd to 4th on high rev (e.g. 7000rpm). It does go in but you can hear the crunching noise. However, this only happens on load and never when I shift below 6000rpm. <BR><BR>Another problem which happened ages ago and only once was grinding noise when engaged in reverse gear after a drag day. A quick summary of what happened that day was 3x 6000-7000rpm launches and grinding starts. Drove the car nicely and after that day, the sound went away. Might be something loose from heat expansion? <BR><BR>I know its a million dollar question but if it was you, would you rebuild the gearbox or would you just try using redline? I am planning to change the clutch if that helps making the decision. Rebuild by my mechanic was quoted around 1.5k - 1.8k (everything included except for buying the clutch)

Redline is costing me $120 delivered from Harold @ performance hub.

Give it a go first. If it fails to fix it (I doubt it from what you're describing..), then rebuild/buy another, fill with redline from get go.

With the reverse thing, it could be the clutch cable stretching, making the friction point move to the floor and beyond? This happened with my M3 after a hard day out. New cable, $20 and it was sorted.

Edited by Ten Four

I have the same problem but with 3rd sometime's and 4th more often. I tried the redline oil and it still has the problem.

I'm planing on replacing the synchro's so does anybody know of a good place to get these or someone that sells rebuild kits?

Redline is costing me $120 delivered from Harold @ performance hub.

Give it a go first. If it fails to fix it (I doubt it from what you're describing..), then rebuild/buy another, fill with redline from get go.

With the reverse thing, it could be the clutch cable stretching, making the friction point move to the floor and beyond? This happened with my M3 after a hard day out. New cable, $20 and it was sorted.

clutch cable - ummm, no

  • 2 weeks later...

I had an occasional crunch into 5th even when changing at a casual rate also the odd crunch on fast changes into other gears. I put in Redline Shockproof Light and it pretty much all went away. It crunched once into 5th soon after putting it in but not again for the last 3-4,000kM. Occasionally I feel a slight grab into one of the other gears, but not a crunch. For my g/box and hip pocket Redline Shockproof Light was the answer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...