Jump to content
SAU Community

Changing Boost Help..?

Kaido_RR

By Kaido_RR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

bleeders work by allowing some of the boost pressure to be vented, rather than going to the wastegate. To reduce the boost, you need to lessen the amount of air being bled off.

If there are no markings on your bleeder, such as a + and - symbol to indicate which way to turn it, you can try turning the bleeder 1/2 a turn clockwise. Take the car for a drive and see which way the boost is going, then adjust apropriately.

If you do have markings, just try adjusting down by 1/2 a turn at a time, test drive, then adjust again as necessary.

May I ask why you only want to run 6psi? thats pretty low, below stock on an R32 or 33.

Another way you could get the boost down is to remove the bleeder competely, so the boost goes directly to the wastegate. This way you will just run whatever the minimum boost of the gate is.

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

at the moment my car is running very rich, and i dont have enough money to get it dyno and tune yet :) so i was advise 2 run very low boost. The bleed value has + and - but i cant turn it for some reason, it has 2 screws and i took them out but still i couldnt move it

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

The screw you need to turn is on top of the valve, not the ones on the side that hold it together. In my turbosmart valve the screw is inside a blue metal ring on top.

I think its clockwise to reduce boost, you tighten it to reduce the amount of air it lets out.

The lowest boost you can get is stock because thats controlled by the wastegate spring instead, so just turn the valve all the way clockwise until its closed.

B-Man Grand Master

B-Man

Posted
Posted

Ummmm wouldn't turning boost down increase the richness problem ?? Turning the boost up would create more flow, more air, leaning out your richness.

But I wouldn't advise you to just turn your boost up - You really need a tuner with Dyno & Wideband Lamda probe thingy to tune it safely.

How do you know it is running rich ??

Do you have a factory ECU ?

What sort of car you got ?? I thought factory boost on a GTS-t is 7 PSI , so I don't think you will get it below that....

PTR33 Proficient

PTR33

Posted
Posted
hey,

car is 93 gts-t

stock ecu, i know it is running rich as i can smell the fuel, also i get flames out of my exhuast (i have a cat)

car is running aftermarket turbo (unsure wat it is maybe highflow, hks ssq bov, hks super drager exhuast, airfilter_cai)

Is the BOV plumb back or atmospheric venting? If you are running stock ECU and non plumb back BOV then that is the reason for your flames. AFM sees the airflow of the pssshhht and fuels to suit. Result, rich mixture, fuel smell and flames.

Not that there's anything wrong with that... :devfu:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • silviaz
      Returning after a long time!

      By silviaz · Posted

      Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm not 100% how the BMW racers do it, but I know from other brands like Merc, moving, and changing the coolers is one of the things. Like getting a transcooler out from infront of the radiator to out near a wheel arch. So some of the stuff you've got crammed in the middle front, spread it out and open up where you can in the bar to get more air in to the sides.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Small update for the day... Turns out the intercooler and engine coolant hose kits are anything but complete....I probably should have counted better but it only really covers about half the coolant hoses in the car, it really just covers the visible stuff and pretends everything else doesn't exist (turbo water feed and returns and also heat exchanger lines through the 2 pumps and cooler) .In any case, I'm happier to have half reliable hoses than none, but a bit of a disappointment. Anyway...finger click (and 5 hours).....hoses in place, lots of spring clamps replaced with screw clamps, and engine coolant is on the pressure tester for the night.   Incidentally, upsized header tank is an Inifiniti factory option....not sure I'll ever do prod car racing in this but at least it is legal.
    • GTSBoy
      GTX2867R GEN 2 NO OUTPUT FOR BOOST SOLENOID

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Just weld it onto the hot pipe. If you want it right after the turbo, put it right after the turbo. Or rip the comp cover off and drill and tap a hole into it.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      hahaha glad I can rely on you two to go on a spiral at the drop of a problem! Some quick answers....the ducting is excellent top bottom and sides....everything that gets in goes through the coolers (noting the oil cooler redirects it out again, fair call if it is cooling 120o+) and the heat exchanger for the intercooler also has some scoops to pick up more than it's fair share too. I can't see going down the water spray track....no bueno for formal racing and a big risk for long rally days if you run out (plus I'm not clear if it is allowed there either yet).   Frankly, it must be possible to reliably put 400kw through a standard front end, the BMWs do it so I just need to work it out....I'm starting with reducing blockages in the way and adding some coolant capacity with a bigger header tank, flushing rad and making sure it was filled/bled properly (I didn't do the last coolant change); also taken measurements incase next step is a bigger/higher capacity custom radiator
×
×
  • Create New...