Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So Fast Five (the fifth Fast and the Furious movie) comes out late next month, and I was thinking it would be fun (and kinda corny) if we had an SAU import meet to go see it together. If there's enough interest we could even call the cinemas and try and organise a SAU discount for the night, particularly if it was on a quiet night like a Tuesday.

I got the idea from the last time I went to the drive in cinema there were a mass of old school muscles cars. They had all the prime parks and were out and about talking so I assume they'd been there a while.

I think Lunar drive in best because of its location in Dandenong, the other option is Coburg but it seems a little far out for anyone but those in the northern suburbs. Has anyone been there? I've only been to the Dromana ones.

Anyone interested?

hey Kieran,

not sure if you have seen the movie nights I organize but I am going to do a fast and the furious 5 one.

They normally occur on a Friday night and we go to Coburg and we get $10 for a full adult ticket. I am going to post something up shortly, but am waiting for final details from the events manager at Village cinemas who always looks after us.

Here is the link to the movie night we had last week

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/353906-sau-movie-night-5-11th-march/

Adam

Ah cool nevermind then. I had seen them but for some reason never knew they were drive in cinemas. Assumed you guys were just meeting up for normal ones.

I'll let you organize it ;)

Noooo... ...Don't give up so easily... ...FIGHT FIGHT FIGHT!!!...

:domokun:

think lunar drive in is a bit more welcoming for our cars..in sense of less loose rocks and smother surface to drive on (from what i can recall..

i prefer lunar drive in too..just coz i live less than 5 min from there :D

I'd probably go regardless. But I prefer Coburg to Lunar, even though Coburg is further out for me (it's really only a half hour drive from the eastern suburbs). IMO:

- Screens look much the same to me in terms of quality

- I found there to be more random stones/bumps at Lunar - not cool at an F&F movie with heroes wheel spinning on exit

- Coburg is much easier to navigate around both on exit and trying to find a spot to park (more room and better layout)

- I was waiting in queues of cars at Lunar last time I was there

- Diner is better at Coburg

- Less chance of being defected at Coburg

- We get $10 movies at Coburg whenever we organise a meet

- Lunar usually has more annoying f***s (read Dandenong locals) camping out in front of the screen with their flashlights and taking pictures with a camera while the movie is on. VERY annoying.

/rant.

Thanks Kieran,

Unfortunately Lunar drive-ins are not part of Village and as such we may not be able to get a discount.

1 other thing, if there are alot of people for this one we may be able to get it abit cheaper then normal.

I just gave him a call and it is coming out on the 20th of April, so theres a bit of time and I will put up

more info when available.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...