Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK any of the guys running F-Con's might be able to help me out and of course Scotty...........

i might aswell quote whats been said its a it easier, but any ways Alex did a cipher log on my car and then i passed on the details to Jez and the question is as follows:

Alex: "there seems to be a problem with the ECUs AFR correction, because it is cycling to each end of the ability to % correct. To my knowledge this is usually caused by the fueling map not being accurate enough in the low range/stoich range. You can try disconnecting the O2 sensor, and see how it drives, but let Jez know, and I'm sure he'll be able to touch it up a bit. If it gets really bad, just disconnect the HKS and run the stock ecu."

Jez: "Have u spoken to Scott? He mentioned that the f con is designed for 350z and the 02 sensors cant be used accurately or something along those lines. Have a chat to him but of course we can check it on the dyno or road with my wideband"

cheers Theo.

Have you got a Wideband Theo?

Might be worth connecting the output of it to the F-con for feedback.

Not sure about what Jez said about the O2 sensor, never heard that myself, but I'm connecting the wideband to the F-con to cover that base.

Just disconnect the feedback for now, although you will need to switch it off in the software. I have never had my o2 feedback working, there is no narrowband sensor in my exhaust. I was planning to do as Ryan said, hook the wideband in to the fcon. Do we have information on which input to use ect? It's been a while since I looked at the wiring diagram...

This is what I was able to scrounge in my files...

Wideband A/F 5V - GCC Ignition Signal Input 16

Wideband A/F GND - GCC Ignition Analog GND

Fuel 2: Wideband Input

AFR 1 Feedback Map: Fuel Trim Map

AFR 2 Feedback Map: OFF

AFR Feedback Start Time: 60

AFR Feedback Cycle Time: 100 msec

AFR Feedback Volume: 1.00

AFR Feedback ECT (low): 80 C

AFR Feedback ECT (high): 100 C

NOTE: To enable Target AFR tuning, AFR mask table needs "1" setting in enable zone.

NOTE: Once Target AFR tuning is done, set AFR 1 Feedback Map to "OFF"

Not sure if that's useful, mine is setup a little different.

$444.00 for a Autometer 3378

Sport-Comp Air/Fuel Ratio Pro Gauge

2-1/16", Digital, Wideband, Range: AFR or LAMBDA

does that price sound about right and is it a good unit?

would like to stick to this one as it will match the rest of my gauges but if its not suitable or a rip off i might reconsider.

edit:

  • Includes 8 ft. tubing or wiring harness.
  • LED digital display.
  • 0-4v data output feed for ECU, data acquisition unit, or Laptop tuning
  • Auto-Dimming gauge brightness feature
  • Includes custom tuned .1 AFR Resolution Bosch LSU4.2 Sensor
  • Display data in Lambda or numerical A/F ratio
  • User programmable range
  • Peak recall/memory
  • 10:1 to 20:1 AFR Range for Gasoline Applications
  • Adjustable for Alternate Fuel Types (Ethanol, Methanol, Propane, CNG)
  • 6:1 to 18:1 AFR Range for Alternate Fuel Types
  • User Programmable Warning Function
  • This product has no provision for dial illumination/back lighting

Edited by WAGON_BOY

hhmmm seems as though my stock computer has overridden and tuned itself to a bad state (its been in about 2000km)

noticed pinging today, and once again the cell light came on, but this time when cruising down the highway.

the exhaust smells like unburnt fuel and the engine oil reaks of petrol, so im not happy but we'll get it sorted.

so i think its time to sort out the O2 sensor or f*ck it off and like you guys have said get a wideband and connect it to the f-con.

any other idea's welcome.

Edited by WAGON_BOY

it only ping'ed cos i was being a knob held it in 4th going up a steep hill at 90km/h i shouldn't have pushed it and/or dropped it down a gear and it probably would've been alright i guess.

but it makes me wonder if it's done it more often and i haven't noticed cos i've had the radio on.

Not worth the risk I don't think, so cheap insurance. You can log it all too.

I don't think Scott had issues with the stock ECU retuning itself though?

I'll be able to tell you more in a few weeks when I get it in. Although mine will be different, as I've got the extra sensors.

Get a wideband with a programmable narrowband output.

You can then wire the narrowband output into where the O2 sensor was, and the wideband output into the fcon.

That is the sensor plug, you would need to turn off o2 feedback in the fcon though or the code will show.

If it is pinking you will need to get timing backed out in that cell. Doesn't sound like a safe tune unfortunately. Take it back and get it sorted asap. Bad pinking is similar to hitting the edge of the piston with a mallot, the engine won't take it for long at that power level.

I suspect the ping was due to it being too lean. Was like cycling before, adding and taking fuel. If it was taking fuel out up the hill, then it would increase the risk of ping. Unplug O2, reset ecu, and see what it does. Shouldn't ping in high load/rpm because it shouldn't be using the O2 correction.

I think the tune is safe, but it's the ecu having trouble with the O2 sensor. The tune really has no bearing on that. If it doesn't work, then just as Scotty said, move the fuel target to 15:1 and that'll stop the ecu using the O2.

is there any way to stop the fault code 0135 popping up cos the O2 sensor is unplugged ?

Get a wideband with a programmable narrowband output.

You can then wire the narrowband output into where the O2 sensor was, and the wideband output into the fcon.

This ^^ is excellent advice!

If you replace your narrowband O2 sensor with a wideband one to do what Ryan suggested above, the CEL will continue to pop up, not because you don't have a narrowband signal going to the ECU (you will have from your wideband), but because the ECU can't see the O2 sensor' heating circuit.

The fix is either a) install your wideband sensor further down the pipe, just before the cat (like recommended by many suppliers) & leave your factory narrowband sensor still plugged in. The signal circuit will be disconnected from the ECU so won't do diddly to your tune.

Or b) replace your factory O2 with the wideband one and put a very large (10W) resistor across the heating circuit (near that green plug that you pictured) & that will fool the ECU into thinking the sensor is still there. I'll have to check what resistance it should be, but somewhere around 10 ohms is what I'm thinking.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...