Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah because bigger is always better HUH................................................................................................................. not :P LOLz

i'm finally going to fit my twin 14" thermo fans and remove the engine clutch fan but i'm wondering about what controller to use.........

just a simple thermostat, relay setup or is there a proper fan controller than has a temp display and everything.

cheers :)

i'm finally going to fit my twin 14" thermo fans and remove the engine clutch fan but i'm wondering about what controller to use.........

just a simple thermostat, relay setup or is there a proper fan controller than has a temp display and everything.

cheers :)

The one that I got from Scotty seems fine so far, the only downside to the surface mount thermocouple is just that; it's not in the water.

It does seem accurate; the issue will be ensuring it reads the water temp correctly.

Something with a BSP style thermocouple would be ideal though.

I'm running each fan with its own fused 30A relay (only running 20A fuse per fan though), then triggering those with another relay activated by the controller.

The kit comes with a 60A relay to use; but after seeing my supposedly 40A relay and it's wiring cop a hiding recently; doing them separately is better for peace of mind (unlikely to pop both fuses).

I'd also look at putting a barrier in the shroud between the two fans, so that if you want to switch them separately; you can.

Also, if one fails you won't be pulling dead air through the other fan and back out; rather than through the radiator.

Edited by Daleo

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Violence-Super-Fan-Temp-Controller-3-For-Thermo-Fans-/150937504748?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2324938bec&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_1414

That is the one I just bought, it has two sensors and can turn the fans on with either temp I think. Not as good quality as the other one I sold Dale though by the looks of it but I won't know how it works for another few weeks.

fitted the rear chassis brace this morning and done a run through Macquarie Pass and i like it alot, i also adjusted the rear shocks to the same stiffness as the front and what a great result they both made, got rid of the understeering problem i was having so hopefully through the faster corners its alright too!!!

having a 2tonne boat that understeers sucks so now im happy as its given me a bit more confidence in the car as it feels so much better allround!!!

  • 2 weeks later...

just done a brake fluid flush with castrol high performance/race Dot 4 fluid and put the track rims on (18" stockies with Federal 595's).

tommorrow i'll get a wheel alighment and get all the parts to fit the power steering cooler............ suggestions welcome, i'll be heading to rocket midday to pick it up.

and still waiting on the sammich plate and then i can buy the rest of the gear to put the oil cooler in aswell ready for the track day on the 1st of Dec!!!!!

busy day tomorrow but luckily its my day off!!!!!!!!!!!! hehe

just done a brake fluid flush with castrol high performance/race Dot 4 fluid and put the track rims on (18" stockies with Federal 595's).

tommorrow i'll get a wheel alighment and get all the parts to fit the power steering cooler............ suggestions welcome, i'll be heading to rocket midday to pick it up.

and still waiting on the sammich plate and then i can buy the rest of the gear to put the oil cooler in aswell ready for the track day on the 1st of Dec!!!!!

busy day tomorrow but luckily its my day off!!!!!!!!!!!! hehe

I just picked up a small trams cooler, bar and plate, that my local Repco were clearing out.

Apparently bar and plate you can go smaller than tube and fin, so mine is pretty small, just cable tied onto the mesh in the lower part of the aero bar.

Then when we ran the hose to the power steering pump, put this spring stuff on the hose so it would do an almost 90 degree bend without crimping, put joiners in the hose and connected the new hoses to the old.

Easy, and if there's ever a problem I can just disconnect the cooler and reconnect the stock lines.

Cooler got very warm at the last track day but there were no problems at all.

What are you doing for an oil cooler? Got the plate sussed just trying to work out where to mount a cooler, and your config should be the same as mine.

There's room to the side? With a thermo fan?

I will eventually move the steering cooler above the FMIC, was going to put the trans cooler against the radiator, behind the FMIC.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...