Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What might I be doing here?

5555665440_85abace600_b.jpg

I borrowed Fix Me Garage's guard roller to get my shit sorted before the coilovers arrived ... I hate these rollers! take forever to setup :lol:

5555665566_df1330ebb7_b.jpg

Only managed to get the fronts done today until my back said no more ... I'll sort the rears out tomorrow.

Oh, I got a phone call today from Ryda, they were letting me know that the JVC headunit I ordered wasn't in stock ... thanks for letting me know 4 days after the order was placed. So I'm going for some poineer gear instead.

I recieved a hard intake pipe on Wensday designed for a Skyrine ... I'll need to do a few little things before I can fit it though.

So, this weekend was packed. I went to Ryda to sort out my headunit/speaker issues. I opted for a new model Poineer headunit with iPhone connectivity and some 3 way splits ... all for under $350.

Then we had a gathering at my joint until Twilight drift. I'm starting to get used to the car now, and I can see what needs improvements ... the shitty 195's have got to go!

Check out this vid that Tiksie made, great job man

http://vimeo.com/21546249

So, this week should be pretty big. My coilovers should be here which means the Stagea will be riding nice on low on some fresh wheels. Hopefully I can get the seat rails and other little bits sorted too!

On another note, it looks like the MX-5 is going to a new home very soon.

Edited by RoadsterGarage

i know that my greddy's are 8 and 6.....so i think they should be fine.

it all depends on the type of suspension and the weight of the car.

my ls400 with double wishbones had 24kg fronts and 12kg rears.

Also with springs people, the "stiffness" also comes down to spring construction, if you drive on some good quality springs, with the same struts (IE if you used the BC springs and then used swift springs) you would find the swift springs would feel softer and forgiving, yet have the same weight/displacement, and better performance. (another difference between your cheap BC/HSD/JIC and quality suspension)

When will you be taking it off the "kid-pan" and getting some real drifting in?

Also with springs people, the "stiffness" also comes down to spring construction, if you drive on some good quality springs, with the same struts (IE if you used the BC springs and then used swift springs) you would find the swift springs would feel softer and forgiving, yet have the same weight/displacement, and better performance. (another difference between your cheap BC/HSD/JIC and quality suspension)

When will you be taking it off the "kid-pan" and getting some real drifting in?

Whilst not arguing your point about spring quality, the spring weight "number" that people are quoting; is just a measurement of how many kilograms of force is required to compress the spring a certain distance in cm or mm.

As for quality, there are definitely different grades of spring steel, and also country of origin has a part to play (Chinese; generally garbage in consistency & uniformity) and whether progressively wound (tightly wound at one end and looser at the other) or linear, definitely changes the "feel" and behaviour of a spring.

Also regarding the percieved "quality" of BC's etc; I've been using BC's for over a year now, the damper rates and spring rates are well matched, the construction, finish of machining and coatings is excellent, and there are numerous threads on other forums of specialists who've pulled them down to inspect their internals and they've come away impressed.

While I'm not suggesting that they're comparable to the icons like Ohlins, Drummond and others, they are also vastly different in price. There's little justification for using such an expensive product in a "Street" car, and although people do (which I have no problem with) I think it's a mistake to look down on so called "budget" set ups, just because they don't have a premium name.

For the money you pay for BC's; you'd struggle to buy better without another thousand dollars, IMO.

Oh, and Lol @ "Kid-pan"; that's where I'd be...

Edited by Daleo

+1 :thumbsup:

I agree Daleo, my setup feels much better than the Bilstein/Tein etc. I have tried. More supple, yet firmer. It was quite interesting to see such quality coming out of Taiwan and they seem to be lasting quite well.

I try to never bag anything I haven't tested personally.

Your quiet right Daleo,

I have tried a hundred set up's and you will always get what you paid for, I liked Tien Mono flex as far as bang for buck went, (not what other people would call cheap, but they are much better than BC's, and only ~$1100 (i realise that is double the price..) but I found my Bilstein coil overs to be very nice, and the dampers are much closer matched than many other's, (They may not have damper adjustability, but cheaper coil overs are far front equal across all four)

But in the end, it's a street car, so spending big money on suspension that will never get the beating they deserve is like buying a 911 and never driving it.

Also with springs people, the "stiffness" also comes down to spring construction, if you drive on some good quality springs, with the same struts (IE if you used the BC springs and then used swift springs) you would find the swift springs would feel softer and forgiving, yet have the same weight/displacement, and better performance. (another difference between your cheap BC/HSD/JIC and quality suspension)

When will you be taking it off the "kid-pan" and getting some real drifting in?

I'm aware of that, I didn't feel the need to go into so much detail so cool.

FYI I've had alot of setups, and I've found BC to be at the top in terms of bang for buck, unless your going all out with Teins for example (i.e flex/mono flex) I'd be getting some BC's. f**k, even my shitty G4's overshadowed my Tein superstreets ...

what, so I can do something like this?

IMG_1874.jpg

:whistling:

The car is stock man, I'm not expecting miracles from it, I'll get there though. It's all fun at the end of the day .

Edited by RoadsterGarage

whats with all the anger and crap in the stagea section in the last few days??

Good drifting pics man, can't imagine how hard it would be to handle the stag when sliding, i've had mine 4 wheel sliding a couple of times and it doesn't feel awesome.

oh and while we're "pulling dicks" with drift pics, heres mine

DSC01095.jpg

DSC01094.jpg

:nyaanyaa: :nyaanyaa: :nyaanyaa: :nyaanyaa:

Edited by Big Fella

If we pulling dicks with drifting photos, any Oran park shots or videos? :thumbsup: Hehe..

Nope, I started getting into it a few years ago, which is a shame I would of loved to hit up Oran park :(

I do have shitloads of vids on youtube though.

You can pull my dick all you want, I couldn't give a f**k what you think :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...