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This engine is 105kgs lighter than the VG30DETT, much lighter rotating mass too. For example the cams are about .5kg lighter each.

Valves are around 2mm bigger reach and has four bolt mains. 93mm bore instead of 86mm

We decided to do this conversion as the VQ is a much more advanced and lighter motor

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VQ30 Motor

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Fitting motor and checking angles and measurements.

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GT28RS turbos with Tial stainless turbine housing mounted east-west rear in engine bay.

Jigging turbos for 6Boost to make custom manifolds.

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Custom Manifolds from 6Boost

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GTRS Turbo set up with custom manifolds made by 6 BOOST,custom top feed fuel rail, stainless Tial V Band turbine housing.

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Dry sump pulley and belt with light weight Kevlar -12 fittings and hoses. 1000psi rated.

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Totally striped engine bay, linnished excess welds, panel glue and brackets, then we painted it satin gloss.

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New Alternator Bracket

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There are more photos on our Motorsports page, Just click on the Project 300zx links.

Also visit us on Facebook

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TOPIC APPROVED. can't wait to see more johnny. post up all your crazy idea and plans please!! this car is going to be great. the real question is WHEN DO I GET TO DRIVE IT??? don't be tight john. you know the beer baron can handle the zed. i've been a boat captain for years, started in juniors, lazers, tasers, flying ants and moved up to offshore yacht racing. so I think i'm ready for a bit boat like this one.

Yes I have done a lot of sailing to, doesn't qualify you though Rich. She will be a fast boat now. You will have to get in line, after me is John Boston then John Webb and John Bowe, who was here today for a good hour checking the car out. He was very impressed and wants a drive. THe John driven car!!!!!!!!!!Then there is Dave, a mechanic here who has done most of the work, although I think he drives about as good as you, Beer Bitch. Hopefully you won't fit in it either, which is my excuse for fats not to drive it, he he.

Nice work John!!! The slot car has come a long way since I last spoke to you.

Getting very serious now and love the front guards!!! Going to look like a JGTC car....

Keep the updates coming...

Jack

LATEST IMAGES

The Plug is finally finished for the front bar, Painted in 2pack Black. Ready to make the mould, then it will be made in Carbon fibre

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This is where we got our design from.

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Just installed the motor and Dave is wiring up the Haltech with military spec wires.

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There are more photos on our Motorsports page, Just click on the Project 300zx links.

Also visit us on Facebook

I Still dont see any teeth

Looking good John

A bit of bling for you, gold heat shield by DEI, it is supposed to reflect 90% of heat. With the turbo's right back and close to the firewall this should help a lot.

Motor going back in today, ye ha.

Like a rat with a gold tooth. Beat you to it Beer Baron.

http://www.nismo.com.au/images/DSCF0071_000.JPG

http://www.nismo.com.au/images/DSCF0070_000.JPG

so john, tell us more about the engine.

How much have you needed to do to turn it into a viable track engine, just forged internals and a few odds and ends or does the factory vq30 scrub up ok block wise and just needs much the same love as say an rb26 or similiar.

To put it shortly, do you have to spend a mint to make this engine really go?

i already gather that ini your instance your going whole hog.

Hey Mr UAS,,,more power isn't going to fix your problems,,,that "Slot Car" as you call it,,,is what I would call in Slot Car terms a flexicar.

This is your car:-

This is a real Slotcar:-

Cheers cardigan wearer

Neil.

Yes Neil it should give you a run next time we meet. No more power, about the same we suspect, just much lighter, by 105kg. Not big money at all using a stock VQ30DET $1500, then added strong valve springs, dry sump, custom plenum, top feed fuel rail and exhaust manifolds, so it should be efficient. Motor only cost $2000 and has four bolt main, hard annodised pistons, Molly coated skirts, 93mm bore compared to VG30DETT so shorter rods and 9 to 1 comp so should rev. On E85 and 20psi it should easily make an easy 400rwkw with the boost button on the straights. Compared to the VG the VQ has a much lighter rotating mass, the cams are all hollow with narrower lobes and wasted down and all four are about 2kg lighter, a fair bit, alloy buckets with metal shim 39 grams each compared to VG hydraulic 63 grams each, multiplied by 24 adds up to, the cam gears are about half the weight, crank pulley is much lighter although now has a Ross Racing custom balancer. Even the ignition coils are by about 35%. The block being alloy is the biggest weight saving.

The VQ has better port design and stock valves are around 2mm larger.

We do have a spare block with Darton Sleeve kit so can go up to 100mm bore and with VQ35DE crank we have can go 3.8 litre and will use forgies then and bigger turbo;s and make easy 500rwkw.

In addition the VQ30 has another improvement being crank and cam trigger rather than crank angle sensor. More pictures to come, engine and gearbox have just been put in

New dry carbon targa roofs ( no gelcoat, all carbon fibre, Kevlar, Polly core and epoxy resign), now 980 grams each compared to wet carbon 1.55kg previously, so over 1 kg saving off the roof.

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Custom alternator bracket to support the rear of alternator, wasted down to save wieght.

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Engine now installed into car with Turbos

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The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. 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