Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So, i was sick of the stickers from the dodgy paint so i figured i would pull the stickers off and just put some white vinyl or something over them to look clean from a distance, BUT that didnt exactly go to plan so now i need the bonnet resprayed properly :dry: I was planning on going to a Blits bonnet and getting it painted but i dont have the time now so ill just get the heavy ass steel one done....

Although its a pain in the ass at least the shitty HT sticker is now off! No more laughter from a certain DVS man! :nyaanyaa:

kmjJWl.jpg

GBjJMl.jpg

v17xwl.jpg

1Zc4Nl.jpg

So the bonnet is going to the shop tonight, fingers crossed itll all be complete and back on by Thursday!

Bahahahaha

At least it's still shiny

You buffed it to bare metal man! :P Nah all good, it will look heaps better with the paint fixed! Its still pretty shiny thanks to you!

now i see why you need your bonnet painted lol

Told you it was bad :P

Removed it at 5.30pm, at panel shop at 6, work commenced at 6.15pm!! Love it.... Bare metal Respray and some dents to be fixed too :yes:

So bonnet is off and it is down with the painter for repairs, he noticed 2 minor dents which ive never seen and also suggested we respray the lip. He is going out of his way to work on it of a night for me which i am really grateful for especially given the Thursday deadline....

CBwN4l.jpg

GU9ssl.jpg

GREX oil cooler block with Thermostat has been ordered thanks to the help of Dean for locating it for me!! Will run custom black braided lines and speedflow fittings for the stealth factor :ph34r:

always seems to be some old V8 around, what tyres you using on the rear? would it smoke more if the tyre was soft compound, im trying to figure out how to make the most smoke when i do a burnout at the drags next, smoking out the spectators would be a awesome feat :yes:

Edited by SliverS2

always seems to be some old V8 around, what tyres you using on the rear? would it smoke more if the tyre was soft compound, im trying to figure out how to make the most smoke when i do a burnout at the drags next, smoking out the spectators would be a awesome feat :yes:

Yeah soft tyres should be better for smoke.... They are just 275/35/18 Nexans.... No grip lol

But they would pump smoke of you have good wheel speed and stay stationary, that was peeling smoke while moving at a fair pace.... There is a video coming from a car behind on one of the laps so I'll finally see how much it made lol...

The more traction you have, the more smoke it will make.

Challenge accepted!! At least you finally got some sort of skid video :P

  • 2 weeks later...

how was power cruise mate?!

Wow i have been slack with updates..... Had fuel pressure issues but was still good fun, heaps of video on Daves phone and also Sams Go Pro, just need to get it uploaded...... Here are some pics -

4w8XCl.jpg

d06gjl.jpg

n8J0Xl.jpg

i0dwNl.jpg

So the night before Powerplay we decided an Oil Cooler should be on the cards so we made one up -

ZN9oXl.jpg

MVBcxl.jpg

GUwz0l.jpg

FANukl.jpg

It is sitting nice and high out of harms way but will need some finishing touches like ducting etc, the oil temps are good on the track the way it is so i am pretty happy overall.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...