Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not much achieved on the weekend, resprayed the radiator air deflector as it was flaking..... Replaced some dodgy bolts with nicer stainless items and cleaned up the 2 front A/C brackets, so much to do.........

IMG_5310_zps4d362b8b.jpg

145e281d-bd36-48f9-8faf-3073dce87117_zps20d41630.jpg

The fuel cooler is setup from the return line to the cooler then to the surge tank.

Ahh ok cool, the same way i've done it then.

Is this the 'best' location for it?

Have any of you guys got a temp sensor in your fuel system somewhere? If so, where?

I'm putting one in mine, my idea was to have it in the return line just before the fuel cooler.

No temp sensor in mine at this stage, however i would love to be able to monitor it....

And yes i believe the location is the only spot for it, it is setup similar to the Z tune i think :)

Have any of you guys got a temp sensor in your fuel system somewhere? If so, where?

I'm putting one in mine, my idea was to have it in the return line just before the fuel cooler.

I would put the sensor just before the fuel rail so you know what temperature the fuel is when it gets to the engine. Knowing what it is pre-cooler doesn't help much?

My reason for putting the temp sensor post fuel reg, in between the fuel cooler is this should theoretically be the hottest part of the fuel system?

I would imagine so, either location is still going to give you an indication if the fuel temps are rising.... I still find my surge tank getting hot which i dont think is normal, however everything is running optimal so i guess it is?

One thing i did learn is that the fuel cooler has ruined my normal jacking up procedure, if i jack the back first it makes the front too low, now if i jack the front first i get this -

IMG_5329_zps0c3a6762.jpg

LOL and yes that is a snap on super low jack already!

All good, will just have to change the way i do it!

And i broke another POS ISC arm in the rear, they flog out or break in no time! Garbage! So i replaced it with more cheap stuff for now until i can afford to do it properly -

IMG_5331_zps823fb833.jpg

GKTech make billet ones, no welds ;)

This will need to be my next purchase i think! I have now replaced the shitty ISC front caster rods with GKTECH arms and the car feels so much better! And they are so light too!

How is the tank plumbed from top to bottom?

There are 4x hoses that connect to the surge tank. All should be at different heights. But some tank are different.

Eg theres two ways to dot it.

From top to bottom;

1.

- Return to main tank

- Return from fuel rail

- Feed from main tank lift pump

- Feed to main pressure pump(s)

2.

- Return from fuel rail

- Return to main tank

- Feed from main tank lift pump

- Feed to main pressure pump(s)

Which way is yours done?

The 1st option heats the fuel as the surge tank has to be pressurised to return fuel to the main tank. The main pressure pump and the lift pump have to work harder to fully fill the surge tank allowing fuel to flow out of the top fitting back to the main tank.

You want a small air gap at the top of the surge tank with the return line back to the main tank jn between the return from the rail and the lift pump inlet.

If that makes sense?

I just double checked so i didnt get it completely wrong :P

Fuel tank to surge tank, feeds twin 044s to twin lines to each side of rail, center of rail returning via fuel reg to return line to surge tank over flow to fuel cooler into fuel tank, tank feeds surge.

Loving the build mate. Engine bay looks clean and stealthy...

Thanks mate! Makes it well worth it when not only do i get to enjoy the car BUT i get people appreciating the hard work and money etc that goes into such a build ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...