Rb26 Oil Pump Choices

[James_03]

3posts up. The pic of the stock vs n1 gears. No wonder the n1 outer gear keeps breaking. There is not enough meat on it.

I was looking at that pic and thinking exactly the same thing...you can easily see how this combined with poor harmonics could kill it.

Which I suppose is why you hear about very few stock 26 pumps failing. Great discussion/thread but read every page of it.

Edited August 15, 2011 by James_03

[FineLine]

Thats excactly where they break. compared to any other oil pump, stocker included, there is bugger all meat in areas around the edge of the outer gear.

[GTR_JOEY]

Nice write up Webber...

Also, flow rate will slow as pressure in increased.... eg more pressure/restriction= less flow. Flow rate would be decreased by the time the oil is pushed through oil galleries, bearing clearances, restricters, relief valves, oil squirters etc...

I find it very hard to believe the flow figures provided are at working pressure and through working outlets.

At the end of the day, it's a fixed displacment pump, with a pressure relief valve... the smaller the outlets, the sooner the relief valve opens and the more oil is bypassed.

Cheers

J.

This i agree with

i dont agree that a high displacement pump ie tomei/Jun would empty a stock sump as quick as some people say it would

to have pressure u must have restriction,

the pump can flow as much as it wants but its only goin to reach a certain point before the pressure relief is reached and dumped back to sump

and buy putting the restictors in the head maximum system pressure will be reached quicker and therefore reduce the flow leaving more in the sump

if im missing something let me know

[mico]

with the standard sump/baffles i think its more about oil surge. and thats with any pump, including the stocker. once u start makin power and launchin forward at silly g's the oil dont wanna stay still. which is why u must use more oil, 6-6.2l to stop it. and yeah ^^ once u reach 8.5 bar the relief valve opens anyway (in my nitto). and with a nitto if the high pressure it not needed, take the inner spring out and at 6 bar its gonna piss back into the sump. if your oil returns can beat your oil restrictor with flow, your sweet.

[The Mafia]

I'm going to watch this, very interested in development.

[levinboy]

So would my planning of running a tomei or nitro oil pump with restricter and extended sump with baffles am I on the right track with my selections or should I be changing anything??

[mico]

dont forget your oil returns, dont go any bigger than 1.1mm for the head, and restrict the turbo aswell. but that also depends on what u want the car 4.

[Moodles2]

Is there such thing as making the oil drains too big?

[zebra]

If you hit a water jacket than yes

[GTR_JOEY]

So would my planning of running a tomei or nitro oil pump with restricter and extended sump with baffles am I on the right track with my selections or should I be changing anything??

what uve got there is looking pretty good if u plan on using it for the street...

track id throw in an oil cooler as well...

[kitto]

If you hit a water jacket than yes

Haha yep!

Usually their not enlarged as much as you might be thinking. Its nothing like drilling an 8mm hole out to 20mm or anything...

[mico]

i think 1-2mm oversize is bout right.

[The Dan]

You will find that those 'oil drains' work better as gas relief, rather than oil drains. Pretty sure its been widely covered too

[The Mafia]

I went to 9.5mm without issues, but you might be able to get away with 10mm.

Just don't want to make it too thin, might split between the drain and water jacket when under stress.

Best way is to get a shit block, and just keep drilling until you can see how much is too much.

Might even pay to drill it, and then try and cut the block in pieces to see how much meat is there. Seen someone do it with a head after porting. Was very interesting.

[r33_racer]

From memory I think the holes in the headgasket are 10mm so its pointless going any bigger then that anyway. Factory size is 8mm. So you are only opening them up to 9mm-10mm.

[The Mafia]

From memory I think the holes in the headgasket are 10mm so its pointless going any bigger then that anyway. Factory size is 8mm. So you are only opening them up to 9mm-10mm.

if you could go to 10mm on each drain, there are 5 drains I think. Thats a fair bit of extra drainage.

Don't forget to drill the drains in the head! haha heard a few times of people getting excited, drilling the block, and forgetting to drill the head.

It also pays to countersink the holes in the head to help collect the oil too. Only a little bit though.

[r33_racer]

if you could go to 10mm on each drain, there are 5 drains I think. Thats a fair bit of extra drainage.

Don't forget to drill the drains in the head! haha heard a few times of people getting excited, drilling the block, and forgetting to drill the head.

It also pays to countersink the holes in the head to help collect the oil too. Only a little bit though.

Yeh plus the head ofcourse. Good that you mentioned that bit otherwise some people may not even think to do it lol.

It is easy to get excited and miss simple things like that!

[The Mafia]

I nearly forgot too. Its a fairly innocent mistake to make.

So many things that you have to be on the ball about when building these bloody things.

[levinboy]

what uve got there is looking pretty good if u plan on using it for the street...

track id throw in an oil cooler as well...

Yep have an oil cooler going on at the same time

Would a 1.2mm restricter be fine??

[GTR_JOEY]

read through this thread mate, not 100% what size u need but im pretty sure theres a table in there somewhere that will give u a better idea on what restrictor

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page__st__740__p__5988388__hl__oil+control__fromsearch__1#entry5988388