Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 482
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well you'll have to!

Got an email late last night saying the boards are programmed and packaged ready to go but they need to knock up five more C adapters, once they are done (he said hopefully today) they will be on their way :thumbsup:

i would be intro in a nistune but i have been told by Cred thet they do not make 1 for the s1 stagea.

i am after a piggy back ecu. Cred told me that the s1 ecu controls the motor as well as the auto.

so if u start modding the car the ecu dose not like it making it run rich, idle bad.

they are telling me to get a heltec 2000.

as for the 1 replacing tie rod ends i just done mine there the same as r34gtr or 350z.

cost me about $110 each side.

as for front drive shafts 32gtr 33gtr and 34gtr all the same and will fit.

the 34 ones are a little longer in the spline on the diff end

You're in the same boat as R33GTSt's as far as NIStune goes, if you want VCT to work you can do it with an RB20 ECU and an RPM window switch (MSD make one or the eBoost2 comes with one built in) or a Z32 ECU.

CRed wired a Haltech e11v2 into my Stagea before I got it.. great ECU.. completely wrong application. If it was a race car then yeah, sweet.

The series 1 Stagea should have a separate controller for the auto, it is the series 2 (Neo engine) that has the TCM as part of the ECU. Series 1 autos are R33 era so R33 shift kits apply too.

  • 2 weeks later...

that happened to me when i was driving my car back to pannawonica after a week of owning it

all my bolts that hold the belly cover on had rusted and the wind must have snaped them

I still havent fix it after 2 years got to love cable ties :D

this link will give u a good idea of what to look for when buying 1.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/92065-buyers-guide-the-nissan-c34-stagea/

As for place's to get 1 from u can try fabcar or some of the other import yard's u can also try private sales as well auto trader.

When u find some thing you like, before u buy ask some of the guy's hear about it and they will let u know what they think about it

eg price, ks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...