Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 482
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well you'll have to!

Got an email late last night saying the boards are programmed and packaged ready to go but they need to knock up five more C adapters, once they are done (he said hopefully today) they will be on their way :thumbsup:

i would be intro in a nistune but i have been told by Cred thet they do not make 1 for the s1 stagea.

i am after a piggy back ecu. Cred told me that the s1 ecu controls the motor as well as the auto.

so if u start modding the car the ecu dose not like it making it run rich, idle bad.

they are telling me to get a heltec 2000.

as for the 1 replacing tie rod ends i just done mine there the same as r34gtr or 350z.

cost me about $110 each side.

as for front drive shafts 32gtr 33gtr and 34gtr all the same and will fit.

the 34 ones are a little longer in the spline on the diff end

You're in the same boat as R33GTSt's as far as NIStune goes, if you want VCT to work you can do it with an RB20 ECU and an RPM window switch (MSD make one or the eBoost2 comes with one built in) or a Z32 ECU.

CRed wired a Haltech e11v2 into my Stagea before I got it.. great ECU.. completely wrong application. If it was a race car then yeah, sweet.

The series 1 Stagea should have a separate controller for the auto, it is the series 2 (Neo engine) that has the TCM as part of the ECU. Series 1 autos are R33 era so R33 shift kits apply too.

  • 2 weeks later...

that happened to me when i was driving my car back to pannawonica after a week of owning it

all my bolts that hold the belly cover on had rusted and the wind must have snaped them

I still havent fix it after 2 years got to love cable ties :D

this link will give u a good idea of what to look for when buying 1.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/92065-buyers-guide-the-nissan-c34-stagea/

As for place's to get 1 from u can try fabcar or some of the other import yard's u can also try private sales as well auto trader.

When u find some thing you like, before u buy ask some of the guy's hear about it and they will let u know what they think about it

eg price, ks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...