Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone got any idea whats the difference between these 2 other than the cost (standard is around $300 cheaper)? Is it worth the extra if you're just after 300kW or potential 400kW at the wheel? The reason why i've gone with the twin and not single is because of the ocassional launches. Check (if you live in usa): CVS Weekly Ad, or Myer specials. I'm assuming the twin will be bullet proof at that power with launches. One more thing is, the main reason for going with the Nismo is comfort and reliability. If the standard one does the job and is easier on the foot, I would choose that over the competition one. Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359853-nismo-coppermix-twinplate-clutch/
Share on other sites

The Nismo coppermix twin is an awesome bit of kit - most of the vic track gtr's run this clutch including mine. Supposedly the competition is rated for higher kw's but I pretty sure the std twin has been used by gtr's in the mid 300kw at the wheels mark.

340rwkw previous - 1.5 years.

365rwkw currently (1 month).

Nismo Coppermix normal here. I've done a silly amount of launches in the last 6 months, works fine and has no issues at all.

Now for the waffle...

It is SOOO much nicer than my OS Racing Twin that i have in the GTS-R having not driven it for 4 or so months... My god it's so hard to drive >_<

Although that said after 15mins i was fine. But sometimes you don't realise just "how much better" some things are.

Only issue is they are not rebuildable like other clutches, although i believe someone is looking into that possiblity.

OS twin rebuild was i think 1400 vs over 2k for a Coppermix. IMO the extra is worth it for a street car

Looks like nobody's got the competition model. The other problem is Nismo doesnt offer warranty for the competition model even though its more expensive and supposed better (471kW for standard and 574 for competition on the datasheet).

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Normal BCNR33 super coppermix; 471kw/640hp, 950kg pressure, 2.08kg lighter than stock C spec version; 574kw/780hp, 1150kg pressure, 2.08kg lighter than stock
Thanks dude. I saw that in the datasheet but I'm more interested in the comfort comparison. The extra power capability is good to have but I wonder if its any harder than the standard clutch. And from the review, most people have the standard one anyway. A bit off the original topic, this is what I've posted on another topic. Any opinion on what to do?
I experience crunching from 3rd to 4th on high rev (e.g. 7000rpm). It does go in but you can hear the crunching noise. However, this only happens on load and never when I shift below 6000rpm. <BR><BR>Another problem which happened ages ago and only once was grinding noise when engaged in reverse gear after a drag day. A quick summary of what happened that day was 3x 6000-7000rpm launches and grinding starts. Drove the car nicely and after that day, the sound went away. Might be something loose from heat expansion? <BR><BR>I know its a million dollar question but if it was you, would you rebuild the gearbox or would you just try using redline? I am planning to change the clutch if that helps making the decision. Rebuild by my mechanic was quoted around 1.5k - 1.8k (everything included except for buying the clutch)

The C spec in my experience is pretty damn close to the same driving wise. Its not like there's the difference of another plate in there.

If the standard one will do for your power, just get that and save the $300.

Before a rebuild of the box, use redline and see if that fixes it. Well, its not a fix, more a band aid until you can be bothered bilding the box

I have the C spec in my car. 400RWKW, has been in the car for the last 6 years. Trackdays, hillclimbs and one DECA plus just flat out disrespect for the thing and it feels no different to the day I got it.

I have the Nismo slave on mine also. Some people swear black and blue that you cannot run the Nismo slave with these clutches..... I have and I wont be changing. Do it, you wont be disapointed!

I've run both the Normal BCNR33 Super Coppermix; 471kw/640hp and now run the C spec and hardly any difference in pedal feel whatsoever.

Just ever so slight more stiffer pedal feel but you can hardly notice the difference. Both feel like the stock clutch very, very easy to drive.

They are a good clutch, but having driven a GT-R with one, I can honestly say I wasn't a fan.

Got back into my own car with OS twin plate .... heaven :wub:

The OS is totally different though. Bites ridiculously hard and has play.

You can feel the coppermix actually giving a bit of "leeway" to the drivetrain even on savage changes, as in it just doesn't bite as hard which for anyone that uses the car moderately often i think is better. You can slip it much easier too where i found OS took a good 500rpm more in the 31 (25box).

Each to their own though. I'll never go back to my OS lol, in RWD it's a pain... with 4WD it'd be too much effort.

I have the C spec in my car. 400RWKW, has been in the car for the last 6 years. Trackdays, hillclimbs and one DECA plus just flat out disrespect for the thing and it feels no different to the day I got it.

I have the Nismo slave on mine also. Some people swear black and blue that you cannot run the Nismo slave with these clutches..... I have and I wont be changing. Do it, you wont be disapointed!

Excellent.

I've run both the Normal BCNR33 Super Coppermix; 471kw/640hp and now run the C spec and hardly any difference in pedal feel whatsoever.

Just ever so slight more stiffer pedal feel but you can hardly notice the difference. Both feel like the stock clutch very, very easy to drive.

Just what I'm after.

l have had os giken and now a copper mix (car is making a over inflated 380rwkw), l would rather the os giken although it is a little heavier to use l find it had more feel and you could ride it more in traffic where the copper mix l find it is either on or off.

I thought its the other way round? Doesnt easy to drive means you can ride the thing?

Thanks guys. I've got the answer I need but I might pay that extra 300 and rebuild the box just to forget about the whole system in the future.

Looks like nobody's got the competition model. The other problem is Nismo doesnt offer warranty for the competition model even though its more expensive and supposed better (471kW for standard and 574 for competition on the datasheet).

Thanks for the feedback guys.

I have the competition model..........................in its box in my cupboard waiting to go into my car :)

I used the normal version in my last R33 GTR and it was brilliant on the street, at the drags, whatever!

The OS is totally different though. Bites ridiculously hard and has play.

You can feel the coppermix actually giving a bit of "leeway" to the drivetrain even on savage changes, as in it just doesn't bite as hard which for anyone that uses the car moderately often i think is better. You can slip it much easier too where i found OS took a good 500rpm more in the 31 (25box).

Each to their own though. I'll never go back to my OS lol, in RWD it's a pain... with 4WD it'd be too much effort.

Fair comment,

the OS admittedly bites very very hard, that redline to 2nd gear snap where you can just hear the "thunk, chirp" sounds brutal.

but honestly I never had any issues even in bumper to bumper traffic, well maybe it was a bit jerky (the higher revs you talked about) but overall I really like my clutch and did not like the nismo at all !

it had a super high friction point eugh.

Also probably should be noted I have a Nismo master cylinder on mine (bigger one) so that makes it more comfortable on the foot, although I don;t really get the people who whinge about having a heavy clutch, unless of course you have a leg injury/sore foot etc.

Had a coppermix single on my 300rwkw build and it was excellent, only probs i had with it was riding it a touch at high revs to save the drive line (didnt really like that):whistling: Though i did perform an 8 grand launch side steping the clutch and it gripped up sweet and went like a rocket

Now chosen to go the coppermix twin plate for my 400rwkw build, should be a strong and streetable clutch....Cant wait to get it on the street!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Initially I thought having a pair of Recaro seats would be a big bonus, it turns out these do get a little uncomfortable on long journeys (my fault, not the seat). I had a look through the GSM Performance website at reclining seats and booked an appointment to visit their show room. I got the Recaro Sportster CS for the R34 from here, was very happy with the service received so of course a re-visit was in order. Unfortunately the two Corbeau seats I had chosen aren't on display but they had 4 other options available. Two seats dug into my back, one dug into my legs and the other was perfect. I also found out that Recaro seats use a larger bolt pattern so some adaption was required. Luckily GSM offer some universal adaptors that should solve this problem. I searched the interwebs for price comparisons and Corbeau themselves were the cheapest at £300 cheaper (for the pair). I asked GSM if they could price match, unfortunately they couldn't. I later received an email saying Corbeau would honour them the same discount, but the purchase was already made. I did however order the brackets from GSM, both arrived on the same day. I started with the passenger side seat, knowing this was going to be a little trial and error. There are 3 mounting holes at the front and 2 at the rear on these JURAN Racing seat rails.  With the adaptor brackets mounted, the allen cap bolts started to push into the seat, NOT GOOD!  The rear mounting holes lined up but there were issues at the front. The holes were 1/2 hole out, so the brackets got a tickle with the drill to modify the holes. The supplied bolts weren't going to be long enough and a spacer was needed to stop the adaptor bars from bending. A local fasteners company supplied be with some nylon spacers and longer bolts (M8x30, although these will be replaced with 35mm long shortly) A before and after I pre-drilled the front bracket before making a start on the driver's seat to save some time. And in no time at all that was in the car too. The all black seats have transformed the interior and these are MUCH more comfortable. The only downside with the new Corbeau seats is I sit a little higher, but I'll happily accept that over discomfort. The Youtube video can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPyttKPktXA
    • All 3 I guess. The car came with the JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit unpainted so this was one thing at the top of my list to complete then I noticed there were body panels parts for this kit so i picked them up along with some black mesh to fill in the front bumper and front side air vents. car is at a paint and body shop atm completing this work. Next I will be addressing the internal bells and whistles, great summer project I can do with the kids.  full interior removal - ,boys car sound deadening - pads and spray ,boys stereo, sound, lighting - Big 3, GTT or bigger alternator ,kids head lining - dye black add star lighting mod ,daughter. That's it for the next 5-6 months. I have some motor maintenance  work i have to plan out. oil filter relocation, gaskets, mounts. beyond that, mind is starting to turn over if i can use a DET intake plenum, block off turbo ports & pipe in a air intake.      
    • roller coaster of a ride. Alarm system was removed & main harness was repaired where possible. still no fix just random successful starts. moved on to the replacing the ignition switch and relay. well all this troubleshooting & repair has been going on, the car is at a paint and body shop being pushed around. Ive been going down there on odd days after work to get it sorted.     
    • 5th November if you want to come out for a spin wakfield
    • PROBLEM WAS BROKEN COOLANT SENSOR!!! Replaced with a new one and its running mint.
×
×
  • Create New...