Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering what everyone's running on their boats.

When I had new KU31's put on (245/40/18) my steering went all heavy and crap at low speed. At first I thought the tyres must be underinflated...

Went to the servo, fronts were at 34 and rears at 36. Pumped all 4 to 39(!) Is this too high?

Now I realise the increased tyre width probably has more to do with it....right?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360097-tyre-pressure/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

read the pressure rating of the tyre. it will have a maximum. but too high will cause excess wear in the centre, an underinflated tyre will wear onthe outside.

a too firm tyre will be bumpy, especially with aftermarket suspension. i think i run mine at 38 front and 36 rear. but this is when cold. always check when cold

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360097-tyre-pressure/#findComment-5749475
Share on other sites

I was runing 34psi but after a run down Putty road on the weekend it was too rough with the coil overs. So on the return trip, i lowered em to 28psi. Car was much better to drive and not quiet as rough. Still handled the corners beautifully!!

I run these tyres: http://www.falkentire.com/Tires/Passenger-Car/Azenis-RT-615K-14

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360097-tyre-pressure/#findComment-5749569
Share on other sites

i like that test.

but yep, i run 38 front and rear - tested when cold.

good investment is a digital pressure gauge. dont trust the ones at the servos. i check pressures weekly. car feels nicer and less jittery over low speed bumps when the pressure is down around 36 (which is what most tyre places will reccommend) but i reun a slightly higher pressure to protect the wheels, and to counter some of the camber wear by rounding the center of the contact patch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360097-tyre-pressure/#findComment-5749929
Share on other sites

Just wondering what everyone's running on their boats.

When I had new KU31's put on (245/40/18) my steering went all heavy and crap at low speed. At first I thought the tyres must be underinflated...

Went to the servo, fronts were at 34 and rears at 36. Pumped all 4 to 39(!) Is this too high?

Now I realise the increased tyre width probably has more to do with it....right?

I run 38 - 40psi but I believe your heavy steering is caused by the wider rims/tyres and different offset. It gets worse the wider you go.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360097-tyre-pressure/#findComment-5749977
Share on other sites

That's all horribly low for low profile 18's...

I run my 235/40/18's at 45psi cold, even 42psi doesn't feel right and anything under 40psi feels terrible.

You must have good suspension to compensate your tyres which are as hard as concrete!!

Must be bloody slippery in the wet/rain with those pressures.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360097-tyre-pressure/#findComment-5750078
Share on other sites

50psi!? that is ridiculous. and why would you run it higher if you're lashing it? should be running it lower if anything. otherwise it just turns into a roller skate - you will get better grip with lower pressure, plus it will allow for expansion of the air as the increased heat levels build.

only people i know who run those pressures are the VIP guys who run super stretched tyres and huge camber - helps prolong tyre life and keeps the tyre seated on the bead.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360097-tyre-pressure/#findComment-5750128
Share on other sites

50psi!? that is ridiculous. and why would you run it higher if you're lashing it? should be running it lower if anything. otherwise it just turns into a roller skate - you will get better grip with lower pressure, plus it will allow for expansion of the air as the increased heat levels build.

only people i know who run those pressures are the VIP guys who run super stretched tyres and huge camber - helps prolong tyre life and keeps the tyre seated on the bead.

no

Should mention, I don't have a stagea and just realised this is the stagea section..

Edited by Ten Four
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360097-tyre-pressure/#findComment-5750145
Share on other sites

on drift days you run a higher pressure in the rear. also some tyres are rated to 50psi. i remember a set i had on my S13, 52psi was the maximum. i ran them at 44psi.

if 50psi is over the maximum rating, youre taking a risk IMO

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360097-tyre-pressure/#findComment-5750151
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...