Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'll never know why people skimp on injectors, maybe because they are small parts so people don't feel like they're getting much for their dollars, but they are probably the most important modification to get right during a turbo upgrade. You'll waste a lot of dyno time trying to figure out flat spots and fuelling issues if you get it wrong.

Keep shopping around eBay and be patient...sets of 555s come up for around $450-$600 second hand all the time.

since getting my new injectors I have seen the light here as well..

while a good turbo will make the power, a proper fuel system is just as, if not more crucial to a good overall "efficient" tune :thumbsup:

My tuner spent a good hour drumming this into my head one day (over a couple beverages ) , not only are good injectors better for performance , they are also good for economy compared to cheap ones due to the better spray pattern , so for a regularly driven car (and especially with the price of fuel) you make your money back soon enough anyway :)

Edited by toffy

My tuner spent a good hour drumming this into my head one day (over a couple beverages ) , not only are good injectors better for performance , they are also good for economy compared to cheap ones due to the better spray pattern , so for a regularly driven car (and especially with the price of fuel) you make your money back soon enough anyway :)

Fuel cost money, injectors cost money, the tune cost money, you will never make your money back lol but it definitely saves on the wallet.

380km from my last tank, still haven't got the warning light on. Thats with moderate to minor-aggressive driving.

Fuel cost money, injectors cost money, the tune cost money, you will never make your money back lol but it definitely saves on the wallet.

380km from my last tank, still haven't got the warning light on. Thats with moderate to minor-aggressive driving.

I meant you will make the price difference between cheap/sub par injectors and good ones by having better fuel economy :)

I remember back quite a few years ago, when all these aftermarket bits were way too expensive, mate had a R33 GTSt fresh from japan with highflow turbo, highflow injectors, mines ecu etc we all thought it was king shit back then but doesn't quite stack up now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...