Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

when I went to pull my turbos off the first time, they were seized as buggery. Was really hard to crack them off.

I ran a tap over the threads and then put a dab of graphite-impregnated anti-seize on them. Then tightened them up the best I could.

5,000 k's later I had to pull them off to do my rb30 conversion. They still were clamped on nicely, but way easier to crack and wind off.

Where does everyone get the stainless studs from?

I get mine here, not sure what the thread pitch is on the RB's though, is it 1.5mm or 1.25?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200356383346&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_830wt_1139

After mine were a bitch to get off the 1st time I have the whole shebang a coat of WD40. (yes it burns off after 10mins). It's been off a few times and swapped turbo since and no problems - also no nuts coming loose either and they aren't stupidly tight either.

i have had problems a couple of time with stainless steel binding. its a f**ker when it does.

i dont bother using SS these days. i find high tensile bolt/stud in right size for what im doing and coat it with Caterpillar antiseize paste which is basically a copper paste. its not cheap buts its free for me and and amazing product.

deals with high temperatures extreamly well.

anything from caterpillar usually is great gear. on a side note, i use caterpillar gear oils in my box and diff in my track car.

Are you changing the turbo studs too? The 4 which hold the turbo on? If so what length and pitch are the standard ones? I need 4 new ones. My old manifold bolts looked like steel stud copper nut. Piece of piss to take both out after 30thou driving. New car has stock shit so I don't plan to ever take the manifold off lol. Need to replace the turbo ones as new turbo is going on. I've got some studs suitable but far too long and I really don't want to be here cutting away...

Lol actually I dont work for caterpillar lol. I work for a company called consolidated facilitations. Im an electrician by trade. My old man is a deisel fitter by trade and territory manager for caterpillar. Got a few mates who work in service for cat or in the mines doing break down work on cat gear so getting their products is not a hassel lets just say lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...