Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I've got a mild 33 gtst and I am in the process of upgrading turbo (2835 pro s) and installing a plazmaman plenum.

I've decided to buy a new intercooler while I'm at it as my old one has seen better days and is a china jobby. Anyway I got to thinking, because the short pipe that runs from the plazmaman to the intercooler piping is 3" an then I will have to put a reducer in somewhere to tie in with the 2.5" pipework that is pretty much standard with most aftermarket pipework why not just go 3" on the whole of the cold side?????

The end tanks all have a 3" flange and reall the only thing that's going to be smaller is the turbo outlet on the hot side. So what would be the pros and cons of running one of the two options below.

Option 1: keep the 2.5" pipework on the hot side and run 3" on the entire cold side from end tank to plenum so the is no reducer (on that side)

Option 2: run 3" pipes on both hot and cold side and have a reducer at the turbo outlet.

Would running the extra .5" pipe diameter create any noticeable lag because it has to fill more area?

And could it cause any problems going from a 2.5" hotside into the intercooler and then out to a 3" pipe setup to the plenum?

Interested in your thoughts.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362429-intercooler-pipes/
Share on other sites

Basically .5" will be more laggy, but will you notice probably not. As for going from 3 to 2.5, it could help marginally in that because there is more volume the air will cool itself slightly more as it exits the intercooler, but again not really noticeable ;)

no point, your restricted by the turbo outlet, stay 2.5, only reason to go 3 is if you dont like the look of a 3 - 2.5 reducer on your throttle body, in which case just use 3" for the cold side.

Thanks for the constructive replies guys (except for one........btw 17psi r33 I've been on these forums long enough to know search is my friend, was a fleeting thought whilst in the garage so I posted whilst searching)

The small Pipe after the tb that plazmaman supplies is 3" so i have no choice but to use it, hence my query. They also supplied me with an extra 3" pipe as well as my old pipework has no lip on one peice so has blown of over 18psi before.

I just didn't specify that I needed 2.5" so that's my fault. A reducer can be hidden away and be barely noticeable so that not a drama. Was more concerned about petential loss of response/lag by going up in size.

Air inside the cooler piping is compressed. Means the greater volume that needs be compressed the greater time would require to compress it. The cooler pipe should just be big enough to maintain boost pressure from the out let of the turbo, and ideal to have the shortest travel length.

So the current 2.5 inches will do fine or its at least more then big enough for the 2835.

I have 3" Piping with a Greddy copy FF plenum and a GT2835KAI, I hit full boost (18psi) at about 3400psi. But from what I've found the KAI is less laggy then the PRO S and doesnt reach the same power levels.

The only reason I have 3" piping is because a friend blew up his engine with the same plenum and I just bought his pipework off him to save me having to get it custom made for my car. It would probably be better with 2.5" but for what I payed I cant complain.

Go 2.5" if you can. As said its more then enough for the 2835.

Mmmmmm, well Ill see what I can do.

I have to use the small 3" that runs off the TB and I do have a 3" pipe for the next length but I am getting a new IC anyway so I'll see if I can get just some of the piping with it and I'll stick with 2.5"

Just to be clear I was going to keep the 2.5" on the hot side it's just the cold side I was wondering about

I have 3" Piping with a Greddy copy FF plenum and a GT2835KAI, I hit full boost (18psi) at about 3400psi. But from what I've found the KAI is less laggy then the PRO S and doesnt reach the same power levels.

The only reason I have 3" piping is because a friend blew up his engine with the same plenum and I just bought his pipework off him to save me having to get it custom made for my car. It would probably be better with 2.5" but for what I payed I cant complain.

Go 2.5" if you can. As said its more then enough for the 2835.

ohmy.gif F***!

LOL

yeah but its only pushing out 240ish rwkw at the moment. Its a great street turbo but I was aiming closer to 280rwkw which is what the Pro S does. They told me the KAI superseeds the Pro S. So far it looks like they were wrong, but will see what happens when I take it in for another touch up and dyno run

Lol hmmm I dunno. It's slightly surging in 4th and 5th ATM when it's getting around 16psi (3000-3500rpm is the range it surges, only in high gears)

Anyway, just don't want to make the problem worse by bringing boost on even sooner, in talks with HKS about maybe putting a .8 rear on it but I dunno. Don't know enough about that stuff lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...