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  • 2 months later...
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YESSSS!!! there sure is updates, pretty big ones at that, sorry i havnt had the chance to get on here to update the build! :(

Well i have sold the T04E turbo and in its place will be a Kinugawa TD06SL2 20G 10cm, i know i said that garrett was the only way to go, but looking at the dyno results from others it seemed hard to justify paying almost double for a turbo that gets relatively similar results.

I have also taken out the short shifter and replaced it with a standard shifter.

Whilst the new turbo is going on i will be re fabricating a new stainless steel 3" exhaust system with twin pipes coming out the rear, should sound nice!!

enough chitter chatter, here are some pics for now.

P.S the exhaust system pictured is one i just finished welding up for an S15, im going to be doing mine similar to it.

This is how the engine bay looks currently:

image15.jpg

Goodbye old turbo!!

image16.jpg

short shifter Vs stock shifter

image18.jpg

exhaust system i welded up for workshop one in carrara on the gold coast, highly recommend their workmanship towards all car mechanical servicing and rebuilds etc.

image17.jpg

UPDATE:

So my new turbo arrived yesterday! only took 3 days! was pretty stoked so i started going at it right away, ill let the pics do the talking.

everyone takes photos fresh out of the box......right?

image22.jpg

test fitted it onto the manifold, very tight fit but still fits none the less.

image23.jpg

took all the exhaust stuff out so i can make a start on the water and oil lines, dump pipe etc.

image24.jpg

Made up some braided lines from aeroflow

image19.jpg

another pic of the braided line set up.

image20.jpg

Also finished fabricating/welding the v band onto the dump pipe and test fitted everything. now i have to begin putting everything back together and get a dyno tune.

enjoy!

Hey mate curious as to why you took the shrt shifter out? Not strong enough to use on track/vulnerable or??

Can't believe the exhaust is 3 inch? Looks huge! I have one very similar on mine and let's say it's VERY loud haha :)

Love how this is developing mate.

Edited by gtsttrk

Thanks for the feedback mate, I took the short shifter out because it was getting a bit notchy. Standard shifters are awesome!

I got the turbo bolted back on to find that my old oil drainage is way different to before. So ill be going to make buy more fittings and make up a braided line for it.

Ah yeah nice bro! I was thinking of putting a short shifter into mine seeing they're pretty cheap, but yeah the standard shifter isn't that bad and I see a lot of people end up reverting back anyway. And apparently they aren't the best for tracks anyway.

Can't wait to keep reading this bro!

  • 2 weeks later...

Little bit more of an update now, seen as though the rain is constant on the Gold Coast at the moment i thought it would be a great time to work on the car some more and try to get it done.

first off i modified the dump/front pipe to suit vband:

image25.jpg

new heat wrap on the dump pipe.

image26.jpg

Got the turbo in there, started hooking up the braided lines:

image28.jpg

just clears the rocker cover

image29.jpg

image29.jpg

All i have to do now is buy the fluids for her, i am going to be switching from nulon fully synthetic oil to AMS oil fully synthetic, i will also be running BMW concentrate coolant and doing a amp/V test on my radiator to see if there is any current coming through.

Once all this is done i will start her up, hopefully all is well and i can go get a dyno tune. I am hoping for around 350-380hp on 18psi.

Hope you all enjoy the update.

Im also selling this custom surge tank i made up:

image21.jpg

Make an offer if your interested :)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

UPDATE!

not a good update, but still an update none the less. I had one job left to do on the car which was to apply thread sealant to a inlet manifold bolt that was leaking a bit of coolant, so i took the bolt out.....cleaned it, cleaned out the female thread on the head of old sealant as best i could, applied new sealant to bolt and as i was tightening the bolt up with a 1/4" ratchet i hear a loud CRACK................thought it may have been the ratchet slipping a tooth or something as the bolt wasnt tight at all......tighened the bolt up, let the sealant set for a while and put coolant in the system.....this is where i found out what the crack was....it cracked the female thread on the head....major FML situation...so i have started taking everything off to get the head off....

While the head is off i will be getting it serviced along with a new cometic gasket set and ARP head studs. Atleast ill be able to run more boost knowing i have a steel head gasket in there....anyway here are some pics.

cracked thread:

IMG_1364_zps625e7481.jpg

1 hour later:

IMG_1372_zps6aa40017.jpg

also have exhaust manifold and all belts off now....hopefully the block is still good and the head wont need much work.

UPDATE:

This is now how the engine bay looks :(

5c7a3b87-a066-440a-ace2-3221b039444b_zps

dropped the head and intake manifold off to works engineering where he will be servicing the head and machining all surfaces.

Gates racing timing belt kit is on the way along with new ARP head studs and a COMETIC head kit.

  • 2 weeks later...

bit more of an update, got all my parts and picked up the head fresh from being serviced, so happy with my cometic VRS kit and their MLS head gasket looks unreal!

anyway here are some pics!

IMG_1574_zps0221a674.jpg

IMG_1575_zpsdf4ff739.jpg

IMG_1577_zps2f81d916.jpg

IMG_1579_zps1a34041e.jpg

IMG_1580_zps2d8adb46.jpg

will hopefully get it all back on the car in the next few days and then to get her on the dyno and hopefully pull some decent numbers!

  • 1 month later...

UPDATE:

So the car went off to the dyno a few saturdays ago, and as usual the only thing i didnt replace was what failed on me, the thermostat was stuck open and not getting hot enough to push power through, also my TPS was reading to low V and had to be modified so i could rotate it more to get the correct Voltage.

SO..... on sunday i put a genuine nissan thermostat in and modified the TPS mount so i could rotate it more, i set the TPS to .38V when car is on accessories only...seemed ok so i turned the key and more problems occured....the car is idling at 2,000RPM.... not sure why so i turned it off, replaced all vac lines and certain fittings...still made no difference....so i took the AAC valve off, cleaned it and went to put it back on when i found one of the mounting bolt threads were stripped.....could have been a problem with the high idle also ??? so i have to helicoil that tomorrow and put it all back together to see if it is still idling high..

if so..... does anyone know of a certain procedure that needs to be done when putting a TPS back on? such as foot to the floor (throttle completely open) etc??? any help would be appreciated.

for now, here are a few pics, also got a 200mm dildo shifter.

IMG_1661_zpsce4291de.jpg

IMG_1664_zps36cfcaa7.jpg

  • 1 month later...

UPDATE:

i had the car on the dyno a few saturdays ago, all tuned up with standard throttle body back on, new thermostat and TPS set up perfectly.

the car performed very well and im happy with 373HP at the rears on 17psi, i will be getting a new CAS in the next few weeks and putting it back on the dyno to squeeze a bit more out of it as my current CAS is playing up at about 6300 RPM to rev limiter, not a big deal by any means.

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