Jump to content
SAU Community

Tampered Day May 15Th

emts

By emts,
in Archived Events

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Snowman Grand Master

Snowman

Posted
Posted

Serious? I thought it would take more than that to keep up with your car in a straight line, what power is Blaise running?

I'd say there might be a 1:22 in it at Sandown the way my car is at the moment, although I don't know how it will handle the ripple strip abuse.....

Blaises car is 280awkw's - but only 1240kgs. compared to my 330rwkw's and 1620kgs he has me smacked on PTW. Kills me in a straight line.

But 280kw's on a 2.0L EMO with one of those cheater EMO 9 RS turbo's and E85 is not that hard to achieve.

I still wouldn't do though as then I'd have to start wearing a dress on weekends.

ssxRicho Grand Master

ssxRicho

Posted
Posted

for those on the lazy here is a direct link straight to Troy's sliding action.

Mat, I'm on Blue Stuff front and Yellow Stuff rear. Got em from these guys http://ksport.co.uk/.

iirc the rear pads for $135 landed and the fronts were $170. My Fronts are big though. 6 track days down and the rears have 85%, fronts have 40%.

I used PMU HC+ from rhdjap when I had the standard calipers, but was only getting 3-4 track days out of em. They had better initial bite than the blue I have now, though very much the same. But at $250+ a pair...

I'm not sure if you can get some hawk pads form the states on the cheap cheap with the dollar?

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

LOL...really appreciate you posting those pictures. For the life of me I cant hear when the RE55s lock up. I have been told the AO50s are a bit easier to drive on as they give you a good squeal. But yet to try them. I am running far too racier a pad for my weight of car and rotor size as they really are nice after a number of laps, but up until that point when they are still coming up to temp they are easy to lock up. The flip side is they are very kind on rotors, but alas they dont seem to be too easy on tyres when they are cold :)

The original idea was to go as big a rotor/caliper setup as I could get under a 17" wheel then run street pads as they would offer plenty of cooling. I wanted to try the PFC06 as they are an endurance pad and are qiet, low rotor wear and not dusty....but they are hard to get up to temp

Also, doesnt help that I have big ARC front swaybars on rose joints which really need to be set with the ride heights and corner balancing. No surprise that the brake locks ups when there is a little turn in and trail braking going on and I suspect the big fron swaybar is unloading the inside tyre when there is body roll

emts Grand Master

emts

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Could be worse...

Where the fk the track go???

IMG_0526.JPG

Bunch more pics here(think we got every-one..)

https://picasaweb.google.com/mfsull/WintonMay2011#

usual thing, if you want full res email me the filename and will bounce them over

file name can be found on the right eG:

Filename: IMG_0526.JPG

JAGR33 Grand Master

JAGR33

Posted
Posted

Second last lap of the day, wasn't the fastest but Natsoft shows it as a 1:35.9. Notice around the 1:20 mark the wheelspin from the faulty ACD not giving me drive at the front wheels.

If only I had a clear run.....

Ant97GTR Grand Master

Ant97GTR

Posted
Posted
Second last lap of the day, wasn't the fastest but Natsoft shows it as a 1:35.9. Notice around the 1:20 mark the wheelspin from the faulty ACD not giving me drive at the front wheels.

Lol that was an interesting entry for the sweeper indeed :)

As quick as the Evo is that soundtrack leaves a lot to be desired :D

Snowy - that weight diff is huge...close to 400kg makes a lot of difference. I'm surprised that the R wouldn't catch the the Emo higher in the rev range.

JAGR33 Grand Master

JAGR33

Posted
Posted

Thats a cool pic!

Watching Jacks vid side by side with mine the biggest difference is straight line acceleration! Corners are about the same, perhaps me a tad quicker... but under brakes and in a straight line I am being murdered....lol i need e85

Can only imagine what the difference would have been with your previous setup, much more response than what you have now so your corner exit would have been much better. I say go the e85, hopefully it will wake it up in the lower rev range.... :thumbsup:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...