Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah good point, at least I have a very good panel beater who I trust implicitly. The first accident was a 20K repair job, half the car had to be resprayed, so I paid for the other half out of my pocket and had a total respray, and the paint job shit's all over anything out of the Nissan factory. The cars now 13 years old, and looks better than most cars that are 12 months old. I had a spray painter look at it (my mechanic is also a qualified spray painter) and he could NOT tell it's been in an accident at all.

Not to mention I spent a small fortune modifying it, sway bars, Tein Coil overs, and a bunch of engine mods, it now put's out 360rwHP.

So in short I do love the car and don't really want to sell it (I'm just sick of waiting for import parts).

I've been told the parts will be here in 2 weeks, so hopefully with a bit of luck it might be repaired in a month or so, here's hoping anyway.

Paul

As a rule of thumb, panels are usually too "fluffy" to air freight in that there volume when packaged is greater than their weight so they usually come in containerised... out of japan you are looking at at least 20 days in transit minimum before you start talking about local handling either side or a slower service.

Sucks ey?

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

+1

As a 6'4 guy in an R33 GTST, stock seats have my head on the roof; 32GTR seats in my car now leaves me a few inches lower :D

A couple of questions regarding seats and rails:

1. Can I just fit a set of GTR rails and mount my existing seats on them, obviously I'd need a reduction in height?

2. Can I fit R33GTR rails and seats in my R34 GTT

The reason I ask this is the R34 GTR seats are just to hard for me and my back injury.

If I ever want to take the car on the track I need to lower the seat because there is no way I could wear a helmet the way it is.

Paul

Very little you can do to prevent people running in to you, except maybe opt for a colour other than red (apparently the similarity between the brake lights and the colour of the car could mean a split second delay in the synapses of whoever is following you, which could make all the difference.

Anyway, if you don't want an import, how about ...

350z-4.jpg

They were Aussie delivered of course, but parts would still need to come overseas from Japan. Even so supply would probably be better than a BMW and slightly cheaper to run than say a 330Ci or M3.

Matt

A couple of questions regarding seats and rails:

1. Can I just fit a set of GTR rails and mount my existing seats on them, obviously I'd need a reduction in height?

2. Can I fit R33GTR rails and seats in my R34 GTT

The reason I ask this is the R34 GTR seats are just to hard for me and my back injury.

If I ever want to take the car on the track I need to lower the seat because there is no way I could wear a helmet the way it is.

Paul

Not too sure; I think R34 GTT rails were different to the rest? Anyone else wanna help me out here?

The seats themselves are the main difference in height, they're a lot smaller in the base than the massive pillow of GTST seats. Having said that though, they are a little harder, so I don't know how you'd go with your back injury, but the majority of "hard ride" in my car is due to coilovers, so that'd come back to your suspension.

If they're the same rails though, if you're at an event I've got the liner at, I'm happy to do a quick in/out for you to see how the 32 seats sit in your car... Just need confirmation it fits heh

Not too sure; I think R34 GTT rails were different to the rest? Anyone else wanna help me out here?

The seats themselves are the main difference in height, they're a lot smaller in the base than the massive pillow of GTST seats. Having said that though, they are a little harder, so I don't know how you'd go with your back injury, but the majority of "hard ride" in my car is due to coilovers, so that'd come back to your suspension.

If they're the same rails though, if you're at an event I've got the liner at, I'm happy to do a quick in/out for you to see how the 32 seats sit in your car... Just need confirmation it fits heh

Yeah that's it really just need to know if they fit.

I have Tein Street coil overs which are a little firm but there really not to bad, I think their about the softest coil overs you can get.

I think I'd be fine with R33 GTR seats, although I really don't think I'd want the R34GTR seats, their quyite hard.

R34 GTT seat mounting points are different to 32 33 and 34 GTRs, there is a thread here somewhere about it, you need to cut and weld the rails for it to fit.

Or just do as some people do and only run 2 or 3 bolts, PLEASE DONT.

Also my back is arse and the 34 GTR seats are fine.

Not too sure; I think R34 GTT rails were different to the rest? Anyone else wanna help me out here?

I'm pretty sure that's right - for some reason the R34 GTt seats are NOT compatible with R34 GT-R or any of the R32s, R33s or C34 Stageas

I'm pretty sure that's right - for some reason the R34 GTt seats are NOT compatible with R34 GT-R or any of the R32s, R33s or C34 Stageas

Yeah that's a right pain in the arse, if they need to be welded, and you do it properly, you'l need an engineers certificate and the thing will probably have to be over engineered to the bullshit, and cost a small fortune.

Yeah that's a right pain in the arse, if they need to be welded, and you do it properly, you'l need an engineers certificate and the thing will probably have to be over engineered to the bullshit, and cost a small fortune.

Might need to look at a Bride Low max (i think?) recliner or something similar?

Might need to look at a Bride Low max (i think?) recliner or something similar?

When you talk about Bride low max, are you talking about just seat rails, or the seats and the rails.

Thanks Paul

I have Tein Street coil overs which are a little firm but there really not to bad, I think their about the softest coil overs you can get.

Have you thought about just getting some springs and shocks (EG, the old sydneykid suspension kit that used bilstein shocks with a different manufacturer of springs). Chances are you will get a better ride without compromising handling (especially since Tein Streets aren't a monotube shock)

Have you thought about just getting some springs and shocks (EG, the old sydneykid suspension kit that used bilstein shocks with a different manufacturer of springs). Chances are you will get a better ride without compromising handling (especially since Tein Streets aren't a monotube shock)

To be perfectly honest I've been very happy with the Tein Street coil overs (I've had them on the car a few years now), the ride is quite comftable, and they've improved the handling out of sight.

Parts are not that hard to find for imports, you must be going through the wrong sources.

$20k damage? why did u even fix it, im sure that would be a write off!

anyway id go for a e36 m3 evo, 330ci or 350z maybe even an HSV GTO

No I guess this accident is probably about 8K damage. The 20K accident was a few years ago when the car was insured for over 30K, and it bent the rear chassis rail, (it's now insured for 23.5K). After that accident the panel beater did a fantatstic repair, he resprayed the entire car (partly at my expense) and you couldn't tell it had been in an accident at all. My mechanic's also a spray painter and he couldn't pick it.

Your right parts aren't that difficult to get, my panel beater and I insist on using brand new genuine parts. That being the case he's ordered the parts through a Nissan dealer. I believe it's taking so long because they've been affected by the recent earthquake. In the past it's usually taken about 2 weeks.

Their due here next week, so here's hoping, although I'm not holding my breath.

Yeah the M3, EVO, and 350Z would all be nice cars that I'd be happy to drive, although I spent quite a lot modifying the R34 so I think I'm going to keep it.

Paul

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...