Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Agreed a car shouldn't be on the limit of deto. However if a fuel pump was dieing and you were getting low fuel pressure or you dropped off a waste gate line and you were free boosting. lost of different things can cause knock and can happen while your driving it as well

I agree 100% but i don't believe a nistune will save u any more. Especially since the knock maps don't work yet. (depending which car of course)

The load cut might help save u if the wastegate line comes off but u could keep naming what if's all day.

Not many ecu's have knock maps so its obviously not needed.

In regards to grid spaces thats another thing over rated as the ecu interpolates between cells.

I have seen a 1uz tuned with a 3x3 grid and runs fine. (Naturally Aspirated though)

I agree 100% but i don't believe a nistune will save u any more. Especially since the knock maps don't work yet. (depending which car of course)

The load cut might help save u if the wastegate line comes off but u could keep naming what if's all day.

Not many ecu's have knock maps so its obviously not needed.

In regards to grid spaces thats another thing over rated as the ecu interpolates between cells.

I have seen a 1uz tuned with a 3x3 grid and runs fine. (Naturally Aspirated though)

I know my car has a knock map set up? Was gonna go read the NIStune website to see if Type 4 daughter-boards have knock map capability, then I realized I could not be bothered :closedeyes:

I really don't see the argument between ECU's. Your car is not going to make another 100rwhp just because you bought a PFC and not a NIStune, and vise versa. For me it was as simple as looking at what I wanted to do with the car, then speaking to my tuner. Andy (Hyperdrive) said he is very happy to tune either, but for budget and ease of installation/setup, he told me to go with the NIStune. Done.

Edited by Hanaldo

The points on cold start and idle quality, it's all down to the tune.

Both my cars have/had PFC and the idle and cold start was great, just like factory. It's all down to the nut with the keyboard.

Nistune sounds good, and they do the job well. Knock control is good, if it can be tuned to suit and is enabled as said earlier.

PFC flashes a light on the dash if knock comes up and the hand controller will usually show you what it got to, so you can act on it accordingly.

Hanaldo u are right. Unfortunatley its a questiin in the list of many that pop up on here too often and every one has an opinion. All the facts are out there for people to get as much info as they need to help decide.

Oh and ur r34 neo rb25 doesnt have knock map capabilities yet.

Hanaldo u are right. Unfortunatley its a questiin in the list of many that pop up on here too often and every one has an opinion. All the facts are out there for people to get as much info as they need to help decide.

Oh and ur r34 neo rb25 doesnt have knock map capabilities yet.

Fully agree.

And I see... What were you saying before about copying the tune to create a knock map? Maybe that's what my tuner has done... He was telling me how the knock map he setup uses richer AFR's and has about 2-3 degrees less timing. I had an issue when I first got my car tuned where something sent it into the knock map and I was getting terrible fuel economy and it made really low power at a dyno comp. So fairly sure it has a map setup that it will go into if it detects knock...

i have to agree.

i personally wouldnt dismiss the PFC so quick

Of course not, going by your posts in this thread you don't even know how Nistune really worked and thought it was a piggy-back :)

They both have their place, you get some "value add" with the PFC, but for most applications Nistune is well proven and totally fine - given they are pretty much the same thing when it boils down too it.

It's just not applicable to 'every' model/ECU etc etc. So sometimes a PFC wins out simply by default.

Ive had 2 PFC's never had any issues with knock or idle/cold start. In fact, my car starts up cold better and starts up warm better with the PFC. I have no idea why but on the stock ECU my car takes about 4 - 5 engine turns to start. With pfc its bang on the first turn.

Ive only bought the PFC simply because it was in my old car and I have experienced its performance. I'm not saying nistune is bad but for me I like familiarity. Trying something new scares me.

Not sure if Nistune has the same capabilities but with PFC obviously you can add the Boost Control option...PFC seems to be a bit more flexible allowing home tuners to make some adjustments in the cabin from the hand controller (pulling timing, trimming injectors etc).

Much of a muchness though, really.

honestly if I put you in a car with a nistune tuned at workshop A, then swapped it for a PFC also tuned by workshop A you'd be hard pressed to tell any difference. if tuned by the same tuner they will both get the same results. the biggest difference is in the tuners not whether you've got PFC or nistune. In my silvia I've run PFC AND nistune and found no difference between them at all really. well the hand controller. that's about it.

Again:

Nistune is not a 'Chip' as in EPROM ... it's a daughterboard that sits in the original socket of the EPROM.

After installation most parameters of the ECU are freely configured via the Nistune software.

Further you can log engine parameters in realtine and store it on your laptop.

I went for Nistune because I wanted to have various maps I could work with and store/alter them on my PC plus

fancy realtimedata on my laptop.

The PFC struck me as a closed 'shop' .. and I wanted to have out-of-the-box connection to other systems.

(Nistune also supports wideband loging via external hardware)

Knock maps do work on Nistune, just as the genuine ECU.

In fact Nistune is all your ECU does plus changebility of every aspect you could dream of.

I have an R33GTST with Z32 ECU and Nistune on it ...

The only thing I am missing is knock detection in the software (but this is being worked on)

Here's a good address for tunig Nistune (depending on where you live)

http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/tuning.shtml

Cheers ...

Edited by Torques

NIStune FTMFW!!!

post-62296-0-81138100-1305843003_thumb.jpg

This is what is convincing me to sell my PFC and get a carputer + nistune... Will speak to my tuner and if he is willing to give me a tune + ECU + install a couple other things in exchange for my current almost new PFC with hand controller then I may do it but I don't know how likely a tuner is to swap an ecu for another ecu, tune etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making Vag coil loom for rb25det, can anyone confirm the wire guage i’m using for power supply in diagram is enough for supply not too small for loom? For earth do i need to follow the same procedure or i can use only 16awg wire for all coil and their connecting wire following to the plug?
    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
×
×
  • Create New...