Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well yes, the absolute cost generally isn't realised initially. But to answer the topic - it can be done and 'reasonably' easy.

if you turbo a r31 skyline( stock rb30) you will need to rebuild whole motor no point just slapping on a decomp plate and turbo kit cause it wont hold much boost at all. if you want information on all of it go to calaisturbo.com.au they will tell you everything yopu need to know about the rb30

LOL... What are you on about? :rolleyes:

If you JUST want to bolt on your standard "VLt" kit, you can run 5psi no problems. There isn't an issue at all on a N/A motor.

You don't need decomp plates, you dont need to rebuild the motor etc etc.

If you add an intercooler then you can run 200rwkw without even a worry in the world. Countless people have done it now.

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well yes, the absolute cost generally isn't realised initially. But to answer the topic - it can be done and 'reasonably' easy.

LOL... What are you on about? :rolleyes:

If you JUST want to bolt on your standard "VLt" kit, you can run 5psi no problems. There isn't an issue at all on a N/A motor.

You don't need decomp plates, you dont need to rebuild the motor etc etc.

If you add an intercooler then you can run 200rwkw without even a worry in the world. Countless people have done it now.

+1

I bolted a turbo kit onto my x-trail, makes over 200awkw which is more than double standard power, motor and driveline has been perfectly fine for 50,000kms now... jussayin'...

Stock n/a rb30 engine will handle 300rwkw all day if the tunes on the money.

The heads never been off my engine and still goes strong, makes 303rwkw@17psi on 98.

Only things changed inside engine are camshaft and springs.

Even the stock n/a camshaft is good for 250rwkw.

Edited by shane_180sx

so tyres, clutch, intercooler. manual gearbox, all the pedals and crap, LSD diff, brakes etc are free?

you really do need all the above otherwise you might as well just buy one with it all for $5k

He didnt mention he wanted it to handle or slow down ^.^

That also is a lot of effort to go through to have a standard turbo in the car.

Only to no doubt want to upgrade later, in which case you would need to replace all the standard bits again anyway.

not alot of effort... its as much effort as replacing a turbo on a turbo car...

He didnt mention he wanted it to handle or slow down ^.^

not alot of effort... its as much effort as replacing a turbo on a turbo car...

Drilling and tapping oil feeds and returns, water feeds etc

You do all that with a factory turbo car?

Drilling and tapping oil feeds and returns, water feeds etc

You do all that with a factory turbo car?

31 rb30s have all the oil and water feeds and returns tapped with bungs in them, the standard vlt lines bolt straight up

Plenty of information on th 31club champ. I bought my coupe over 3 years ago non turbo, I done brakes, suspension, visual mods etc.. Then I bought a rb25det and it all started.. I'm only 1/3 of the way through getting it up to my power level goal but in total I would have spent over 20k, and currently in the process of a 3071, power fc, injectors, tune etc.. If I bought another coupe with some of the bits in it I could have been slot further.. But I have learnt slot as I have done everything apart from making the exhaust so it's a great learning curve.

Like luvpsi said, there are 'cheap and easy' ways to go about it but they will definitely cost you the better part of 10 grand.

Get a manual one then buy a skyline halfcut and bolt it all in... is the easiest way to go by far. Even if its an RB20, it sounds like all you want is a turbo.

Be it myself, I would need a good reason to have a R31 to begin with lol... But then if it was what I wanted, I would buy the R33 or R34 half cut, then conjur up a RB2530DET hybrid by following instructions well documented on this site, then get a full exhaust, fmic, fuel pump, good injectors, good afm, tunable ecu and a 500ish HP turbo (id be willing to try an ATR43G3 on this budget project) and get it all together.

With epic torque I would saaayyy.... thats the better part of 15 grand though.

GL

yer i know, im kind of put off the idea of turboing an old motor tho because i dont reckon it would cope to well with allll the extra power.

and the looks of a 31 are a bit offputting haha but its only 1200 bux and in pretty decent cond. but auto too

My old slapper had around 220,000kms on it before the previous owner decided to throw a GT35, ecu and a few other things at it. He went easy on it, and only made 210kw to start with. This was about 7 years ago.

I then purchased the car, made a few changes and retuned it. Made 255kw and had a hard time every time it was driven. I ran 12.0 @ 117 on street tyres. This was 3 years ago.

Last year i slid a camshaft into it, changed valve springs, made a new dump pipe etc and retuned it again. Made 303kw, 680nm (17psi) on DD roller with mixtures fat at 11:1 to keep it alive. I ran 11.6 @ 122 in a manual 31 being fairly gentle with a 1.79 60.

Now the heads never been off this engine, so the gaskets nearly 23 years old and it doesnt push a drop into the catch can. Obviously i could make more power but its at its limit of reliabilty now, and i cant be bothered fixing it at the moment.

Id rather push an old rb30 thats been babied around by an old fella than a stock 25 thats had every dickhead and his boyfriend rape it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...