Jump to content
SAU Community

  

31 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

James, i sent you a text but i think i got the wrong number whistling.gif

Im gonna go see an n13 right now .. 500 bucks ;) he just got the head gasket fixed so he wants more but ill bargain my way through it ;)

  • Replies 308
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Haha yeah I think i pressed the wrong number ... it was in yanchep ... i checked it out .. it was pretty dodgey the clutch was rock solid and he said one of the engine mounts was gone or something

This bunkie car business is tricky!

Yeah I just bought a quokka today, gonna go check out a couple more cars before I make a decision ... saw a nice 1977 escort and 1980 Datsun Sunny ... their freaking cool looking cars so I wanna see them ..

May see a few more corollas/pulsars/excels/cars in that price range ... but the pulsar today wasnt bad, he did say he was gonna have a go at fixing the clutch a bit ... how bad of a problem is an engine mount?

The rest of the car was in real good shape so I may pop around to give the car another go when the clutch is fixed or something

Or I may just stretch the budget to a bit under 1000 .. some good cars around for 900 or so

I hate the old lasers, and newer ones too lol. No seriously though they are decent cars reliability wise, i just hate the look and the ford badge lol

Engine mount is nothing mate, i flogged out both on my vr commodore back in the day and me and my old man did em both plus full service over the space of a day, with lots of bourbons lol.

I cant remember the exact procedure being so long ago, but i remember jacking the engine up with a regular car jack to get at them/replace them. Plus i dont think the parts were very dear either.

I gotta say if i was in your position though, i would prefer something like a ke corolla or datsun sunny, i just love seeing the old beasts getting around.

Fully agree with you cannabis, I LOVED the KE Corolla and real keen on the escort and sunny ... but yeah for a first car to work on its a bit of a daunting prospect and I'm not too sure if ill be able to handle it?

Is the engine mount a real problem or can I just leave it? I'll give the pulsar another go if thats the case once he's fixed the clutch a bit

Engine mount is definitely something that needs doing, and if i remember right, one going usually stresses the other causing it to break.

As far as the older cars go, i think they are probably better to work on in a lot of cases, the lack of electronics makes things easy. Only problem i could see with SOME of the older ones is getting your hands on parts. Still, imo the pulsars are really solid, and you definitely wont have a problem getting stuff at the wreckers!

Yeah I'm leaning towards pulsars/corollas mainly cos I like good old japanese cars ... plus their well known for reliability and have a good amount of parts available and all .. thats what the head says but im in love with the classics like that KE Corolla .. if I had the money I'd go for that one and try to fix it up ... have to look at the sunny and the escort though

I do need to learn how to drive a car without power steering though, gonna end up with some incredibly beefed up arms thumbsup.gif

yeah mate, i drove a few 31 na manuals when i was younger, and they FELT deceptively fast haha. I suspect that all the young rev head p-platers have reduced the numbers by planting them into trees and poles etc- much the same as the vl.

bastards!

That R31 you showed me is such a great buy ... I actually wouldnt mind an auto car, I do drive alot and an auto car would save me the problem of a rock solid clutch?

Girlfriend will just have to do without learning how to drive a manual LOL although she'd have some major issues learning how to do it in a car without power steering anyway

Although I have heard of auto transmissions on old cars being a bit of a problem at times ..

that was 10-4's pick mate- and a good one imo. Not too sure about the auto in the 31, but the vls auto (whilst being really long geared in first) was a tough piece of gear. Imo the pick of the bunch is that r31. Usually a good guide to the condition of an auto box is to sit in neutral with your foot on the brake, and select between drive/neutral/reverse. If it takes ages to select and is rough whilst doing so, its usually a good sign of a fckd auto. My vr's box went at like 380k and it took about 2 or 3 seconds to engage reverse from neutral haha. Eventually it got stuck in first gear and called it a day

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...